notice the -3.5 degrees of camber with the OEM UCA’s
OEM and SKUNK2
Lots of clearance versus the old SPC kit i had…you can notice the dent marks on the tower from before and the SKUNK2 UCA’s clear WAY past that
a lot more positive camber…im guessing i have about -2 degree now considering its kinda low…
and rmbr kids…always get an alignment after any suspension changes…notice the crazy amount of “toe out”
and now notice the other side…keep in mind that the steering wheel is straight
i went for a drive on some bumpy streets…the control arm never bottomed out and im about 0.5 inches lower than i was before…so im pretty stoked…im heading to the alignment shop this week…
alignment done…running -2 degrees all four corners…if it wasnt slightly tucking it could have easily been set to -1
but i want it tucking…hehe…
Suspension set up includes:
-Tein SS coiilovers
-Skunk2 Pro Series Front adjustable control arms
-Rear DIY washer trick (1 washer per bolt)
-ST Front sway bar with poly bushings
-Front sway bar poly endlink bushings
-ST Rear Sway bar with poly bushings
-Rear sway bar poly endlink bushings
Did you swap out the skunk2 ball joints for oem ones cuz I’ve heard the ball joints that came with these type of camber kits are crap.
I’ve had the Rhino type camber kit and the supplied ball joints for shot within 4K miles of daily driving… don’t know if that’s going to be the case with these new skunk2’s. Just keep an eye out for wear and tear…
You should be able to use the stock uca anchor bolts with stock bushings. There are some replacement bushings for these bolts, but they don’t look very fun to install (definitely going to need a press).
So I was reading on one of the sites someone posted about these arms. One of them said the car had to be completely off the ground to adjust them? If so, how is an alignment shop supposed to get an accurate reading if the car needs to be sitting on the alignment racks?
So I was reading on one of the sites someone posted about these arms. One of them said the car had to be completely off the ground to adjust them? If so, how is an alignment shop supposed to get an accurate reading if the car needs to be sitting on the alignment racks?
Can somone clarify for me?
Thanks
MantisX
Trial and error I suppose? Jack up car, adjust, lower car, measure and repeat?
Well hell, if thats the case, Im gonna pick up a set of these arms tonight. I didnt want to buy them and drive over and have them look at me scratching their heads and such. My car is eating tires bad and these seem like a cool replacement with a new balljoint to boot.
[QUOTE=MantisX;1832713]Well hell, if thats the case, Im gonna pick up a set of these arms tonight. I didnt want to buy them and drive over and have them look at me scratching their heads and such. My car is eating tires bad and these seem like a cool replacement with a new balljoint to boot.
Thanks
MantisX[/QUOTE]
It’s not camber that eats your times up as much as toe.
im worried that because these are longer than stock that they will hit the top of the inside of the fender…does it or no because i just ordered GC coilovers and im gunna lower my car even lower than i am now and i need a new front camber kit and its either skunk2 or revo…oh and i wont be tucked because i have nitto nt-450 tires and there kinda wide
an alignment hoist has 4 plates that each wheel sits on… those plates have pins that can be removed and once removed the plate are free moving with the wheel… so as the adjustments are made, the wheel will move and register onto the alignment machine.
nice!
