the EF and DA kit are the same, it would hit if you have the DC kit.
before the EF/DA kit came out people used the DC kit and swapped sides, but i remeber hearing that they hit the tower.
Not sure what im gonna do yet, i have a Koni/Gc setup ready to go on. I wont be going too low, FullRace traction bars and crappy roads do not like each other. So i may just try the Skunk2 kit i have and see how alignment ends up.
The EF kit still hit on mine and then screwed up caster and only corrected 2 degrees of camber, too. I would put a DC kit on before an EF kit. There is no DA kit.
so i guess i’ll try switching sides…
Here is the DC kit…but u have to spread them 1" to make em fit, and swap sides…it’s easy though. I love mine, and I’m not wearing tires…tuckin tread! Been ridin like this for 2 years.
The gap from the ball joint to the shock tower is just right. I only have that much travel anyways with being so slammed.Never bottoms out.
i guess i don’t have a dc kit because mine don’t look like that…i was thinking of cutting out the strut tower piece where it hits like you did,but i thought it would mess with the structure integrity of the strut tower and that it would cause flexing or something…it would be cool if the screws of the sliding ball joint were up top so you could loose them easily for easy adjustment…
i’ll never regret cutting them. it has had 0 affect on the structure of the car. like i said…have been runnin like this for 2 years.
will the skunk2 DA/EF or DC UCAs work if you are 4-wheelin and have about 1 inch of drop? I just want about -1.5 camber w/o bottoming-out or getting +4 caster yo. Already gotta traction bar so caster is somewhat negotiable.
Or should I just go w/ the Rhino.
[QUOTE=sloppysleeper;2051548]will the skunk2 DA/EF or DC UCAs work if you are 4-wheelin and have about 1 inch of drop? I just want about -1.5 camber w/o bottoming-out or getting +4 caster yo. Already gotta traction bar so caster is somewhat negotiable.
Or should I just go w/ the Rhino.[/QUOTE]
Rhino fit, but the adjustment screws on top, hit your shock tower. Also, the ball joints dont hold up long under normal driving. Ive had em.
o.k., good to know. having a ball joint go out too quick def sounds like something to avoid.
I guess what I’m saying is that my purpose for the camber adjustment is very different from what most ppl on this thread are doing. I actually want more negative camber. I got the Ingall’s Camber Adjusting Control Arm Mounts (with the eccentric bolt) for the front, but can only get to about -0.5 with it. I want -1.5.
My car is not that low, especially in the front. It’s only dropped about an inch from stock, so yes I am 4-wheelin feel free to laugh haha… I am wondering if all the issues ppl mentioned about bottoming-out and excessive caster would just not happen with my set-up if I went with one of the adj ball joints that actually holds up (SPC, Ingalls?), or the adj UCA (skunk2?).
SPC ball joint
Ingalls ball joint
skunk2 “DA” UCA (err,… I meant EF)
I would say what about the Revo but some ppl said the boot tears easy on that one, and having the bolts on top seems like a biotch to adjust while the car’s on an alignment rack.
Anybody 4-wheelin here that just wanted more negative camber and has had success with one of these kits?
I don’t understand why anyone would want the combination of 4x4ing with camber (both sound bad to me by themselves). You could definitely get more negative camber with an SPC kit by reversing it from the way it is supposed to go… probably up to 3 degrees more.
[QUOTE=sloppysleeper;2052211]o.k., good to know. having a ball joint go out too quick def sounds like something to avoid.
I guess what I’m saying is that my purpose for the camber adjustment is very different from what most ppl on this thread are doing. I actually want more negative camber. I got the Ingall’s Camber Adjusting Control Arm Mounts (with the eccentric bolt) for the front, but can only get to about -0.5 with it. I want -1.5.
My car is not that low, especially in the front. It’s only dropped about an inch from stock, so yes I am 4-wheelin feel free to laugh haha… I am wondering if all the issues ppl mentioned about bottoming-out and excessive caster would just not happen with my set-up if I went with one of the adj ball joints that actually holds up (SPC, Ingalls?), or the adj UCA (skunk2?).
SPC ball joint
Ingalls ball joint
skunk2 “DA” UCA (err,… I meant EF)
I would say what about the Revo but some ppl said the boot tears easy on that one, and having the bolts on top seems like a biotch to adjust while the car’s on an alignment rack.
Anybody 4-wheelin here that just wanted more negative camber and has had success with one of these kits?[/QUOTE]
I would just get the SPC kit with the offset eye that replaces your a-arm anchor bolts…you adjust with a big wrench. Can get 4 degrees adjustment. This way you can keep OEM a-arms with the better the ball joints than the Rhino kit.
Just called SPC about flipping their #84945 or #84955 kit around to get negative camber and they said no it won’t work 
Emailed Ingalls about flipping their 35700-35710 or 35720-35730 kit around to get negative camber and this was their response:
Very popular request, but sorry they will not fit in the car backwards without removing material in the fender well. There is not enough room behind the mounting area for the radius.
:sad:
Luckily, SPC (and I bet Ingalls would agree about their own ball joint), told me on the phone that if my car ain’t not lowered that much and all I want is 1.5 degree negative camber I should rock their #67135 ball joint kit should work as long as the stock ball joint ain’t welded in. 
Then there’s this thread about Revo sounds like same ball joint issues as Rhino :read:
It seems like all camber kits for our cars have their own quirks to be wary of. I fired off a e-mail to Skunk2 to see what’s the status and they had this to say:
Thank you for contacting the Helpdesk at Skunk2 Racing.
We are currently still undergoing the R&D process for this kit. Recently we had a test car come in for fitment and function testing. Now, we are awaiting approval from the quality control department so that we can mass produce and release them.
Although Brian may have said the kit should be released in late 2008, I am pretty sure he meant 2009. I would guess that this kit should be ready in about 90 days or so. Please go to Skunk2.com and sign up for the newsletter, this way you will know about all the new product releases, blog rolls, and event coverage from Skunk2 Racing. If you would like me to contact you personally when this kit is released, please give me a call at 951.808.9888 ext.205 so I can take down your information and keep it on file.
If you have any more questions regarding Skunk2 products or policy please let us know.
Chris Lucero
Customer Service
Skunk2 Racing
2050 5th St.
Norco, Ca
This is off topic but is there any difference between the Ingalls and SPC ball joints? A lot of people said the Ingalls is a copy of the SPC but I noticed a lot of people mentioned the SPC doesn’t bump as much as the Ingalls… if they’re the same how is this possible?
That’s what Skunk2 told me . . . last year. I wish they would have done the propper R&D from the get go.
Very true, it makes you wonder what goes on in Skunk2… I noticed they still list the EF kit as being DA compatible…
I dunno,… boot looks kinda different.
After a year of running these control arms, I went back in for an alignment and saved the spec sheet this time. 1.8 degrees of caster on both sides @ -2 degrees of camber.
Take that as a data point. I’m content, and frankly I love the stability at high speeds.
http://www.facebook.com/search/?q=skunk+2&init=quick#/pages/Skunk2-Racing/44181299019?ref=nf
conformation folks… they ARE working on a new camber kit and they say it is for the DA. check out that link. its to their facebook
[QUOTE=DAtIntegra35;2069048]http://www.facebook.com/search/?q=skunk+2&init=quick#/pages/Skunk2-Racing/44181299019?ref=nf
conformation folks… they ARE working on a new camber kit and they say it is for the DA. check out that link. its to their facebook[/QUOTE]
I will also confirm this and they sent me a message saying they would send me one when it is completed. So, once it is released, you will get an in depth review of the product.
I look forward to that product review . . . 