my boost gauge isnt even sitting at 0psi its at like 1.5psi and its brand new is that a problem or will it be right when its installed and is actually reading vacuum n boost…?
[QUOTE=DAdriva;1676011]my boost gauge isnt even sitting at 0psi its at like 1.5psi and its brand new is that a problem or will it be right when its installed and is actually reading vacuum n boost…?[/QUOTE]it will stay like that even after its installed. it will no longer be accurate
Damn, thats gay. Well I guess atleast I’ll know its 1 psi off. Friends will think I’m boosting more than I am.
every single autometer gauge i had was off more then 8 psi, my recent one read 8 pounds on idle.
ur shit was jacked
my autometer read good
Damn. Now 1psi doesnt seem soo bad.
[QUOTE=ricecooker415;1676722]every single autometer gauge i had was off more then 8 psi, my recent one read 8 pounds on idle.[/QUOTE]haha, my Autometer did the same shit, except it read -10 in vacuum. said i was running 3psi with it was really more like 8-9
oh. i always thought autometer was quality shit. guess defi, apexi n hks are far superior then.
fo sho, hks and apexi are the shit, but you wanted a good price, blox i would recommend. defi are pretty expensive too. you pay for what you get
yea. im gonna go for the blox once they fix their problems.
Recieved my oil lines in the mail. Ordered my TE basemap chip and my TE chipping kit.
Now just need to order my charge pipes and once those come in my car can be taken to the exhaust shop to have my downpipe made and I’ll be running. Im almost there. Just another $200.
Edit: Just ordered my chargepipes.
That’s good that it’s coming along nicely. How much did you spend so far?
So, far I have spent $687.50, that includes:
-turbo
-manifold
-fmic
-dsm 450s
-oil lines
-Tial 38mm
-bov, chip kit w/ basemap
-oil restrictor
-chargepipes
Only things left to buy is take my car to the exhaust shop and get my downpipe made. Cost $150, and Ill be running. Also, Im gonna need to get me a 255lph fuel pump for xenocron. But, the fuel pump can wait til it goes to get tuned. Also, Im gonna need to buy couplers but thats something to be had cheaply at Home Depot. Also, a slim fan.
SO, alot has changed in my quest for a fast car. Im selling my DA tomorrow for $1500. Then I am goin to pick up my EG hatch shell for $500. No motor. Then tomorrow I will have the go ahead from my boy if he can go ahead and sell me his LS motor. If not Im gonna hit up another friend who has a B16 engine and tranny with a bad head for $500. Then another friend has a vtec head for $150. So, now i gotta get some cheap motor mounts and a shift linkage.
So, Im using my turbo kit on the B16 in the hatch.
why you getting rid of the DA?:argh:
looked like everything was going smoothly…
oh well good luck with the new project and keep us posted…
check out my build thread in this section too…
RETARDED MOVE
…I read my update to this thread in my email and came and logged in just to say that.
But seriously, there are so many things wrong with this I dont know where to start.
yeah i don’t know what your thinking. stick with the da. your this far into it you might as well finish. but then again i noticed you said the motor had 300,000, that is not cool. taht might not last more than a week. and a car should normally have at least 120 psi of compression at eash cylinder, 200 would be good for stock, but your going to run a turbo so you would need to drop the compression to make up for the forced induction. a turbo raises compression. it’s like hearing about somebody putting a b16 head on a b18 (raises compression by having a smaller combustion chamber) and then boosting it with nothing to lower the compression. i’d like to see that hold 9 pounds of boost and last more that a half hour. but do what you will, good luck.
:whisper: how would the b16 head have smaller combustion chamber when all b-series pistons are the same size so the cumbustion chamber is the same size, with the exeption of the gsr head, that has the quench design.