so my DA used to be my daily driver for just about 10 years now and last fall it desided to spin a rod bearing and is my project car so im rebuilding the h22 i had, the motor is a JDM H22a that im doin a fresh rebuild on it with micro polish crank/acl bearings/arp rod bolts/new piston rings…the head is already done, it has JG dual valve springs and ti retainers, seated valves, viton valve seals and using stock jdm cams…bolt ons will included a skunk2 intake manifold/omni 70mm throttle body with 3’’ intake and a logic tri-y header…still unsure if i want to use my LS transmission or try to source a jdm cable b16 trans or b17 trans…goal is 210whp 160tq
function and form coilovers
progress 22mm sway bar
blox LCA’s (already have)
blox rear camber kit (already have)
es bushings all around
new brakes/ hawk pads
esp traction bar (already have)
koyo radiator (already have)
Rebuild starts
Got most of my front suspension off, I ordered the es bushing master bushing kit so just waiting for that to come either friday or monday
Got The rest of my front suspension off, also test fitted the blox lca’s, their not staying on as I’m putting new bushing and shit back there
If you’re going to go to the trouble of painting the radiator black for aesthetic purposes then at least make a decent looking bracket to hold the radiator… You can get aluminum flat stock from the hardware store for not too much money, and even using that, trimming it with a dremel and forming it with a hammer should look a lot better than the one that’s on there now. Or you could even use the material you’re using but just trim it nicely. I am liking the look of black radiators though, I thought about anodizing mine but I don’t think it’d look right in my car, too much black. Decided to keep the polished look since it matches other stuff in the bay.
Dont forget to grease the bolts in the lca. The grooves on the bolts are for grease. If you dont, you run the risk of the bolt seizing in the lca and its not fun trying to get it out… because it doesn’t come out.
