LS Crank

I am getting a list put together on everything I am going to buy to build my engine. I’m will be using the abrams sleeves, eagle h-beams, wiseco pistons, honda bearings, block girdle. This is where you guys come in, what is the LS crankshaft rated at. I am shooting for 400hp with the above setup. I was just wondering if I need to think about buying an aftermarket crank or not.

You should be fine, but definitely figure out your crank before you order the rods. Have you considered a b20 crank with a b18 bore?

the b20 crank is the same as the Ls crank.

Stock honda cranks can take what ever you toss at them no need to go aftermarket to many issues with them.

you can also do 400hp on stock sleeves

LS crank is fine. you will not need an aftermarket crank. however, depends on how hardcore you’re gonna be with racing. using a 87mm b18c crank would give you more rpm, and i see alot of boosted guys spinning up past 9500.

I personally would be hesitant to run oem sleeves with 400+ hp boosted. maaaaybe with a block guard, but even then, i’d say thats the limit. sleeved for sure on anything more than 12 psi

the sleeves already cracked at 16psi with just JE pistons. So now Im keeping the LS crank and re-sleeving the block with some nice eagle H-beams and not sure on what brand piston yet. Has anyone had good luck with supertech pistons? And should aftermarket wristpins press into the rods or should it be a floating in the rod. The eagle H-beams for the B20 have a bore diameter for the wristpin at 0.826’’ and the Supertech pistons have a wristpin diameter of 0.827’’ so there would be an interference fit. I wanted to know if this is how it is suppose to be?

rods will have a interference fit, but it all depends on your pistons. stock pistons use a free floating wrist pin because they don’t use spiral locks or clips to keep the wrist pin in place. most if not all aftermarket pistons use spiral locks or clips, so the rod needs to be free floating. I had a machine shop bore mine for my pauter’s. there are alot of good pistons out there to go with. CP is what alot of people will recommend, but I am currently using ROSS.

CP
Wiseco
Ross
Arias
there are several others but you get the jist of what I’m saying.

Psi/boost really has nothing to do with it. It’s the tune that will make or break a motor I’ve done a few 400 stock block LS turbos but 400 is the limit with a good tune and never on a B20. If you busted a sleeve it had to be a b20 or a bad tune

Are you building a B20 or LS?

Im building a B20, the tune was safe but the sleeves cracked anyway.

how long was the crack how far down did it go?

I hadn’t heard of those sleeves until I looked them up. LA Sleeve makes them to Import builders spec. pretty nice.

There was one pretty long crack and all the others where just starting at the top.

That one is the biggest crack.

[QUOTE=91boostedb20;1934158]There was one pretty long crack and all the others where just starting at the top.

That one is the biggest crack.[/QUOTE]

How long is that one? if it went all the way down they cant sleeve it.

it only goes down about 2.5-3 inches.

why?? i never knew that

most machine shops wont do it because the liner could sink. also remember that b20’s dont have the same type of sleeves that other hondas have.

http://www.hondatech.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=391

im getting ready to rebuild my motor as well and was wondering about this. infact i had posted a whole new thread im glad i used the search button now :slight_smile: and its nice to know that the sleeves and crank will hold what i need. thanks for all the info guys and keep it commin if there is any more.

i do have one more question though. will the ls pr4 rods hold up to 350 or is their breaking point before that or safe point atleast. im wanting to rebuild and make around 350 but i want it to be reliable as well.

some will say you can but for the sake of reliability and you wanting to rebuild it in the future anyway, I say just wait to go to 350HP. just my .02. in the long run you’ll be happy.

on another note. I was expecting to build and I was pumping close to 300HP to the wheels and I put a rod through the block I was planning to have rebuilt. just sucks to have a setback when I was saving up to go big in the first place. now I finally have what I want and have the goodies to go big with no regrets.

well see my motor is already fucked up. i spun a bearing last friday. so i already have to pull it out and rebuild it. i really dont want anymore than 350 out of it. im not trying to go super duper out of this world crazy, its my daily driver. i figure 350 is a good manageable street car that will still be fairly quick. ive seen a g2 with 290 runnin high 12’s so yea id say 350 is fairly decent in the car. everything else will be forged, the only factory piece is the crankshaft.

are you trying to get 350whp or 350hp? if 350hp then yes they can hold it with arp rod bolts since thats close to 300whp once you take away from drivtrain loss. i put down 325whp on a stock block LS that motor is still running in a crx. 350whp is pushing it just get aftermarket rods

im getting eagle rods and arias pistons, those arent the parts im worried about lol. the crank and the sleeves are the worry.