I’ve heard from people that the stroke on the B18A/B is too long and can’t handle the high revving characteristics of V-TEC, is the B20 the same way? I’ve heard that LS V-TEC’s arent a good idea because of the stroke and that they arent very reliable, would a B20 V-TEC be the same way? How much does the B20 swap run anyways?
G2 Guru’s please share your knowledge…
b18a/b and b20 have the same stroke. a b20 is exactly the same except with an 84mm bore (thus more displacement).
you can make safe, fairly high reving ls/vtec’s and b20/vtecs. DO A SEARCH. This topic has been gone over MANY times and there is a lot of info out there… so read up.
The r/s ratio isn’t that big of a deal as long as you build it properly. They can make good power up top but you will need to upgrade the rod bolts to rev that high. Take my advise it will save you some time and money. 930 miles on LS/Vtec R.I.P.
Ryan
930 miles on LS/Vtec R.I.P.
930 miles!!! thats not even past the break in period! and it’ll take more than just rod bolts to make a safe higher reving engine… like i said, do a search theres lots of info out there.
Yep 930 miles.
I was in the final stages of break in and it spun the third rod bearing. I’m not saying all you have to do is upgrade the rod bolts to rev that high, I’m saying in my experience that they are the first to go. Later.
Ryan
Originally posted by blickstick
[B]Yep 930 miles.I was in the final stages of break in and it spun the third rod bearing. I’m not saying all you have to do is upgrade the rod bolts to rev that high, I’m saying in my experience that they are the first to go. Later.
Ryan [/B]
yeah, from what i hear the rod bolts are the weakest link in the bottom end. The rods come 2nd, and a close third would be the lack of block girdle.
the modifications you will have to do for a block girdle is a pain- you have to somehow find gsr oil pan, windage tray, pickup etc that will just be laying around somewhere (note scarcasm)- if someone knows where i can get this conviently-it would be greatly appreciated! 
Originally posted by TIroneous
the modifications you will have to do for a block girdle is a pain- you have to somehow find gsr oil pan, windage tray, pickup etc that will just be laying around somewhere (note scarcasm)- if someone knows where i can get this conviently-it would be greatly appreciated!
z10 block girdle is a nice piece: http://www.z10eng.com/z10_products.htm true, you need a couple gsr parts. but its probably worth it for the added security. Either way, i’d put the block girdle #3 on the list (with rod bolts and shot peening coming in #1 and #2 respectively).
Originally posted by TIroneous
the modifications you will have to do for a block girdle is a pain- you have to somehow find gsr oil pan, windage tray, pickup etc that will just be laying around somewhere (note scarcasm)- if someone knows where i can get this conviently-it would be greatly appreciated!
I have personally found many offers to buy the parts you listed. Just put up a WTB post and the offers will come rollin’ in.
Ryan
re: oil pan
When you say GSR oil pan, is this 2nd gen or 3rd gen? And will this just fit on my 1.8 engine 92 rs without modifications? I ask because I need to replace my oil pan since it has been damaged, and figure that if the GSR would just bolt on I could get one from a junk yard. Will I need to get a different gasket?
ERik
If you get a b20, you can just drop that in right? Then order a b16 or some other vtec head, then parts to make the head swap work and some other things to build up the b20. Once you get all that around swap the heads, which can be difficult, and you got a nice crvtec which can generate a lot of hp and a lot of torque, depending on how much money you put into it, and effort.
Thanks derrick
you could also just pop the vtec head on and only rev up to 7k and not worry about all the reinforcing. I’m not speaking from experience, but it should be a similar mod to cams and porting on an ls head (plus also raising the cr by 0.4, plus having a good idle, plus keeping some low end power). Which route is cheaper now…
I don’t know why we always have to think in terms of “balls to the walls” squeak every last possible hp outa there. Anyways, thats just me
d
Originally posted by daver
[B]you could also just pop the vtec head on and only rev up to 7k and not worry about all the reinforcing. I’m not speaking from experience, but it should be a similar mod to cams and porting on an ls head (plus also raising the cr by 0.4, plus having a good idle, plus keeping some low end power). Which route is cheaper now…
I don’t know why we always have to think in terms of “balls to the walls” squeak every last possible hp outa there. Anyways, thats just me
d [/B]
lol…sorry-but once you hit vtec and you keep pulling-try and tell me you will stop when it hits 7k when you have 1000-1500rpm’s of full HAULING A$$ potential!
Originally posted by daver
[B]you could also just pop the vtec head on and only rev up to 7k and not worry about all the reinforcing. I’m not speaking from experience…
I don’t know why we always have to think in terms of “balls to the walls” squeak every last possible hp outa there. Anyways, thats just me
d [/B]
It’s not “balls to the walls”… it’s safety precautions. Unless you wanna tear it apart not long after you put it in, I recommend going “balls to the walls” as you say, with the fore mentioned three items. I know from experience and I wish I would have spent the extra $35 to prevent this. Just my .02
Ryan
Originally posted by TIroneous
[B]
lol…sorry-but once you hit vtec and you keep pulling-try and tell me you will stop when it hits 7k when you have 1000-1500rpm’s of full HAULING A$$ potential! [/B]
excellent!! I’ve been trying to find people who could lend me some insight on my idea. Have you a crvtec or just driven one? I know some of the “modded” ones pull forever, but when does the tork curve fall off on a “stock” crvtec. I’ve seen dynos with the tork petering off at about 7.5k but i’ve never found a “stock” dyno.
If the b16a redlines just past 8k, then the same head on a 2L block would not be able to fill the cylinders as readily at 8k, so the power should drop off sooner right right right right??? No?
sombody please…
d
AS for the block girdle mod on a b20 or b18 block, you can get the parts brand new from www.acuraautomotiveparts.net for about 180 total. All you need for the girdle mod is:
ITR or GSR:
block girdle
windage tray
oil pickup
6 end cap bolts
I’m personally doing this mod right now to my b20 build. Its pretty easy you just need a lathe and some patience. I’m not ordering the oil pickup because I’m going to use my old ls oil pickup. You just need to shorten the “legs” on it. As for the oil pan, you can use your LS pan. I would suggest using new end cap bolts becuase the ones on the engine already prob have enuf miles on it and could be “stretched” already. They are only like 6.95 each on acuraautomotiveparts. Just do a search for 97+ parts ITR and go to the engine block section and oil strainer parts. You will find there. good luck.
I’m not increasing my redline anytime soon, but might as well make the engine built like a tank so if I decide later I will have that added reassurance. The engine build and parts list is on my site. Link in the sig.
i didn’t realize you could use all your ls parts with the block girdle. First i’ve heard of it rcn.
So if you can mod the ls windage tray to fit, then the ls oil pan will automatically work as well? Just need the gsr pickup?
d
Originally posted by TIroneous
the modifications you will have to do for a block girdle is a pain- you have to somehow find gsr oil pan, windage tray, pickup etc that will just be laying around somewhere (note scarcasm)- if someone knows where i can get this conviently-it would be greatly appreciated!
at times like this, when you’re completely re-working and re-building an engine, brand new parts help create a LOT of peace of mind. the dealership is where i go to get things like gaskets, seals, bearings, belts, tranny oil, oil filters, and the like. Sure, maybe you pay a little bit more, but the added peace of mind I get knowing I use exactly what the dealer uses when they service a car is worth it.
Besides, I’ve always been of the opinion that Honda knows what works best in Honda engines, at least more than some kid behind the counter at the local NAPA parts store. Oh, that and the fact that I went to high school with the parts manager at the Acura dealer so I get a hookup for my personal stuff. 
$.02
ive got 25 000 km on my lsvtec just make sure you break in the motor before you beat on it, thats running b16 pistons b 18 crank and rods and b16 head running 80 shot of nitrious and shifting at 8500 rpm never had a problem.
Originally posted by daver
[B]i didn’t realize you could use all your ls parts with the block girdle. First i’ve heard of it rcn.
So if you can mod the ls windage tray to fit, then the ls oil pan will automatically work as well? Just need the gsr pickup?
d [/B]
You have to use a Integra Type R or GSR block girdle, ITR or GSR windage tray, Oil pickup and end cap bolts too. The LS parts won’t work. I’m modifying the LS oil pickup because the legs just need to be shortened.
I got the info/idea from another site, I forgot what its called, but I’ll get the link from work.