im sittin on a ls vtec longblock right now and like you i too call around and for a ls block to just be balanced and blueprinted is like 800 unless you can do it yourself. im just making a reasonable suggestion since i doubt were all millionaires…
i will be spending the cash for the balance and blue print as mines gonna be abused on the ASR super lap challenge series, drag raced and dailied
Hell ya
and this will be done in a P.O.S 91 4 door with heat and ac 
i’m a millionaire :jerkoff:
There are alot of pros and cons to either the ls block or the gsr block…but for what i have and a mild street build im sure the ls vtec will do just fine…i do like the idea of the girdle for added reliablitly but either way i could just buy a girdle and throw it on there ya kno…but thank u for all the good info and advice…once everything is ordered and ready to be put together i will post pics and dyno vids for it
ive learned lately that when putting the gsr girdle onto the ls block, make sure it has the dowel pins, and also the one main caps clearance is off by .005 and a good machine shop can fix that and make everything perfect
i think golden eagle makes custom girdles.
Yes indeed… you’ll want to line-hone the block to make sure the GSR caps are perfectly in line and circular/matching the LS block.
Balancing the rotating assembly isn’t crazy, but DEFINITELY something you should do.
Man, I’m so glad mine is done and done… research and parts buying was a whore lol.
edit
GE makes one for the LS? Does it require shaving? That’d be awesome if not.
And if all else fails… Spoon makes a 5-brace girdle 
ive seen ge girdles and id imagine its made to fit already. id just call and ask them
I have a GSR girdle, caps and bolts in my closet lol…
But being as my motor is assembled and running, I don’t much care for tearing it apart just for the girdle.
GE Block Guard for B16/LS/B20:
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=265&zenid=984qv38mp250uigdobjmsmm4r4
im currently driving to pick up a gsr block, skunk2 fuel rail, obd1 altenator, and skunk2 rad cap lol
Damn the fuel rail lol.
yes yes stock fuel rail can handle 400hp but the s2 looks so nice
I do like their composite fuel rails… I’ll admit to that.
But I’m cheap, if it isn’t a need, I have to REALLY like it in order to buy it lol
ey i feel that… ive bought more used parts for steals than new parts. ive needed a new traction bar for awhile but their prices never go down but there are so many good used deals i never seem to get around to buying that traction bar lol
my car is a skunk2 poster child if u havent noticed i have almost every part they make for my car except header and cat back lol
just got gsr block, skunk2 fuel rail, and obd1 altenator $300 for it all…the rad cap didnt fit, it was for the alpha rad
for throttle body, is the alpha 70mm worth it? or just get the pro 70mm since its on sale rite now?
I don’t know the difference between the Alpha series versus the Pro series…
If they both come without sensors, I’d go with the less expensive of the two unless there is a huge difference that warrants the extra funds.
What are the prices?
What are the listed differences/benefits?
well the alpha is out of stock and only cost $131 and isnt as pretty, the pro is normally $312 but on overstock sale so its $216 shipped rite now…heres the links to them
top one is alpha, looks cheaper to me
http://store.skunk2.com/engine-tuning/throttle-bodies-2/alpha-throttle-bodies/alpha-throttle-body-356.html
this one is the pro
http://store.skunk2.com/engine-tuning/throttle-bodies-2/pro-series-throttle-bodies/pro-series-throttle-body-94.html
Damn i got my sk2 im and 70mm tb for 340 shipped…parts are so expensive but u gotta pay for quality ya kno