I cant decide which i should do. I do have alot of miles (185,000)
but i am rebuilding it with the excemption of getting the cylinders honed. I hear it is hard to tune a ls/vtec turbo to run good but i hear when you get it right it’s awsome. So i would like as many opinions as possible. My plans are to run somwhere in the 12’s on a daily driver. So thats why i cant go N/A. So please help.
I decided to go LS Turbo. I am doing some engine work and then I will probably run a T3/T04 hybrid turbo. I really want a lot of torque/power and the turbo is the best route from what I understand.
For some reason i just realy want to go ls/vtec turbo. Wouldnt that help with the lumpy idle if i were to run some more aggressive cams? Since their vtec cams? I’m not sure i’m just guessing but isnt the lumpy idle problems due to the more agreesive cam profile in the non vtec versions? I’m guessing this because i would assume the cam profile would be more friendly before the vtec kicked in. Please explain to me because i’m probably just talking out of my a$$.
I can’t explain it well but you definitely do not want to use an aggressive cam wether it be VTEC or non w/ boost. Your stock LS cams or stock GSR cams for VTEC are perfect. It has something to do w/ the excess overlap created by an aggressive cam. Boost just doesn’t like it and it doesn’t work. Anyone of the regulars in here could explain this for you. I do not believe a lumpy idle should be a concern w/ boost.
My current plan is to eventually do a b18a/b turbo. Sure you have more potential w/ VTEC but I’m trying to keep things as simple as possible for tuning purposes and cost.
Leif
Just for opinions sake, does anybody here think it would be a good idea for me to go Ls/Vtec turbo? Thats what i’m leaing towards. Sooo. What do you guys think?
well if you can’t afford to do a complete bottom end build & have to scrimp on having the cylinders honed on a 185k motor, then i really don’t think you have the money to go ls-vtec.
why don’t you tell us your budget & what you plan to do to freshen your bottom end. 12’s in these cars are doable, but at the same time is no easy feat.
I definitley have the buget. For a rebuild and a ls/vtec. My reason for not honing the cylinders is because i realy dont want to have my car out of commision for the time it is going to take to strip it down to block and send it in. I’d rather not have my car undriveable for that long. As far as buget, its not realy a prob. But like i said I only want to run 12’s so i dont need a crazy built race engine.
one thing you gotta think about for a vtec turbo setup is te oil lines…when you go ls/vtec , you have to put a t fitting on your oil pressure sending unit to run the lines…I wouldn’t wanna try adding another t-fitting to run a turbo also… I’d just stick with one or the other.
just my opinion…
well don’t be suprised then when your new rings don’t seal & you get lots of blowby & uneven compression numbers.
I’m not sure but i thought your engine would have to be through some hard times to end up with worped cylinders. I wouldnt know though. Any comments?
Originally posted by demon666999
I definitley have the buget. For a rebuild and a ls/vtec. My reason for not honing the cylinders is because i realy dont want to have my car out of commision for the time it is going to take to strip it down to block and send it in. I’d rather not have my car undriveable for that long. As far as buget, its not realy a prob. But like i said I only want to run 12’s so i dont need a crazy built race engine.
If you dont want your car outta commisson then go buy a ls block to build & prep that, once it’s ready just swap it in. LS blocks can be found for ~200-300
I wish i could find a ls block for that cheap. I’ve called performance shops and junkyards and they wont sell me just the block. Only the full engine.
I hear that, try an automotive machine shop, they may have a block sitting there. you can probably get one for $100.00 US
Be careful though, some of these machine shop owners are idiots
You ask them for something and they don’t have a clue.
i Asked a guy for a block and he tells me i have an H22 block
put your head onto that, everything will bolt in. Now everyone knows this is not true, but this guy was so sure of himself
Best bet get a bottom end with crank and pistons in the block already complete. Don’t let them give you a block,with out anything in it and piece together a crank, and connecting rods
another option is buy a b16 for really cheap, throw it in the car for the time being until your motor is ready, i picked one up for $300 CAN and am going to install it this week
good luck hitting 12s i will let you know its now to easy with a daily driver. You better have about 15k extra laying around.
I say go LS/VTEC The extra T fitting should be no problem, you will want to run a line off your your oil pressure guage rather than stacking a tun of fittings off your block. So you have a fitting off your block attached to a hose then you can tee off all the oil lines you need. I don’t think you’ll have any problems supply oil for the VTEC head and a turbo. Tuneing an LSVTEC turbo shouldn’t be bad with a Hondata, you can always call doug and ask him if he has compatable maps, I know he has B18 FI maps which should be close to LSVTEC maps. I initially planned to use these maps but my displacement is closer to a b16a than a b18a/b.
I had the same problem with a motor buildup, I couldn’t be without a vehicle long enough to do it. I can now since I own a truck but I ain’t stripping down my car now.
new update… Now i’m going crvtec /turbo this summer. Just some fyi. But what do you mean an extra “12k lying around”? I can get a jdm b20 to my door for like 950. b16 head port and polished for around 5-600.Build up a turbo for like 1500-2000 with a t3/4. gsr cams and new valves not to sure on the price. Now i know i left some stuff out like ecu, fuel management etc. But i dont think that comes anywhere near 12k. I dont think 12’s are all that unrealistic streetable if going turbo. I may be wrong though so no offence, any comments?
well, u left out a number of stuff and no it shouldnt add up to 12k more like around 6-8k. Are you building the motor and piecing the turbo yourself or a shop?
I am attempting to do all the work myself. This will be my first engine swap and i hope everything goes well, right now i am waiting to get my car back from the body shop. It was getting fixed from my accident and a new bumper and paint job. GRAND TOTAL!! 5,000. Damn i love my teg.
actually most of the labor cost prolly comes from building the motor.
good Q: i too wanted to go LS/Vtec then wanted to go just LS turbo ( not wanting to buy the motor from “importbuilders” who i think are the best and will show you every thing you want to know) so that i would not have to deal with the build up and tuning crap. then thought well what the hell. the LS/Vtec will blow a type R so why not make it a turbo while im at it… ok now reality hits. HELLOOO thats a lot of freaking money. even if i did my own work. i have just about all the tools. then i seen a post about the 1.8 being turned into the 2.0L and how safe and good it was in overboost. well holly crap batman we have a winner. see the point i am getting at is think of all the stuff you want done to JUST one motor from Block to exhaust. look up the parts that will be needed and no you cant leave anything out. every part is important. i have been buggin people for a while in here about the LS/Vtec and every time i get shot down. telling me that unless you do it right its a waist of money. well i have seen with my own 2 eyes 7 LS/Vtec’s that run better than stock motors. so good luck in your find. this is one area i would leave no gray areas in. 