…with heim joints. Yeah, its a pretty commonly known fact but I thought I’d share how I did it.
I got some (2 male 2 female) 3/8 heim joints (22deg.) from a local bearing company for $20. Then I ripped out the rubber bushings on the ends of the sway bar and substituted my own steel bushings for those flexy dont-use-the-sway-enough rubber guys. Then I bolted the heim joints to the bar, put the bar on the car and went to drive the bitch.
Wow they help a lot. Turn in is quicker and it just feels more prone to rotate, plain and simple. On sunday I went to an autox on the roadcourse again (same course as the last autox) and I am very suprised with the difference these little guys made. Even carmen (codriver and sort of g/f) commented that the car was easier to turn.
The only thing is that I’m not sure if they bind. I havent felt any snap oversteer (I was driving at the limit too) from the bar binding bad but it could still bind. I dont think it will really hurt the joints, though, as they are rated for a 5000lb load.
Ah, at least people are catching on that when lowering a car preload on the anti sway bar has changed and adjustable end links are a must to get the most out of a bar and keep your effective corner weights relatively equal. Keep the spherical bearings clean or they won’t last long.
Originally posted by DB2-R81 Ah, at least people are catching on that when lowering a car preload on the anti sway bar has changed and adjustable end links are a must to get the most out of a bar and keep your effective corner weights relatively equal. Keep the spherical bearings clean or they won’t last long.
i was told a little height difference of the endlinks was irrelevant. there is only torsional stress when one side is higher/lower than the other, none when the car is level. i guess you would think theres preload with a drop, but wouldnt the bar just turn up a little?
btw i forget what adjustable swaybars look like and how they are adjusted ie the comptech
oh. I turned out some little bushings on the lathe. Then held them in place with the washers you see in the last 2 pics.
I’m going to cut the ends off, though. I made some alum blocks that will clamp to the bar itself and allow infinite adjustment (to a point I guess). Then someone can have the bushings that I made.
Would you inclined to make a couple kits and sell them to a couple of the fellas??? I know it’s all off the shelf items but the inserts would not be, specially in aluminum
Schu
Most cars are not level before lowering and if you think any car is level after lowering, think again. Yes, to the naked eye they may look level, even and cool but to a scale and achieving performance no.
A car needs to be corner weighted to achieve any resemblance to corner balance with the anti sway bars disconnected. Then the end links adjusted to the ride height at each attachment point or you will have torsional twisting of the anti sway bar and asymmetrical preload.
Originally posted by Schu Would you inclined to make a couple kits and sell them to a couple of the fellas??? I know it’s all off the shelf items but the inserts would not be, specially in aluminum
Schu
you know what i just discovered one of the C-type clamps that holds the rear sway on the bracket tore off. that little tab that hooks in couldnt take it. i need to think of something more secure, maybe you can fab something… ill get pics up later
nm i just realized the st sway is supposed to come with stronger D brackets i didnt get
Originally posted by Schu Would you inclined to make a couple kits and sell them to a couple of the fellas??? I know it’s all off the shelf items but the inserts would not be, specially in aluminum
Schu
im down for one of these… =) hmm another OgleSport Product
are those steel?
won’t they rust real quick?
how many lbs of force can those little metal screws holds?
what can happen if those snaps?
how difficult to install these?
i’d like more info on this, if it is safe, i’d want one too.
Originally posted by Integ5150 im down for one of these… =) hmm another OgleSport Product
:werd: I’ll take a set too. Would the front ones be much harder to make (I’m guessing it would be the same part). If you’ll make a front set, I’ll take those too.
