Hey G2IC , I have been a member for a couple years now but I have mostly lurked around:read:. I bought my '90 teg gs db1 in late '08 and drove it for a few months before I spun a bearing some time in '09. It has been sitting around waiting to be fixed for the past almost 5 years. I finally started on it after my wife said to either fix it or get rid of it. We really need a second car and we are on a tight budget so I figured that fixing this car would be the best bet (I do not want to get rid of my teg). I am mainly going to use it as my daily driver to and from work that is 5 miles away. I bought a B20B short block off Craigs list for $50 a few years ago and it has been sitting. I have always want a B20 and it seemed to good to pass up. That is proving to be a mistake. I took my stock head, B20B short block and B18A1 crank to a machine shop to have them fixed and motor built. Here is the quote they gave me;
Crankshaft grind $60
Deck Block $65
Cyl Head check and advise, vaccum test $0
Pressure test head $25
Surface head $45
Hot tank block and all parts $50
Block Hone $60
Short block assembly $150
So far they said the B20 crank was to burnt so they used the stock b18 crank and it was fine and polished. My cyl head was burning oil and needs a valve job, an extra $225, but all of the guides are fine. The B20 block had some rust on the cylinder walls and needs to be over bored. They said if I do that they will not charge the initial $60 for the bore and instead charge me $125 for the over bore and hone and I will have to buy new pistons which are about $50 for stock on ebay. I was going to buy ACL race bearings for $110, Hastings rings for $40 and complete gasket kit for $60, all from ebay. Now that I may need new pistons I was looking at getting a kit that has king bearings, npr rings, full gasket kit and stock pistons for $185. The other option I have is for them to check my B18A1 block, pistons and rods and go that route if it is fine. I am looking for any input anyone might have. I want to run the B20 but boring it out scares me. Thanks G2IC.
I would just call hmotorsonline and get one shipped. With everything you tallied up, you are still going to be spending a lot before you have one of your old motors rebuilt and running. If you are building it cool, but it seems you just want a stock running engine with all OE replacement ebay parts. Get a stock replacement b20, swap manifolds and mounts then plop drop and drive. Spend the tiny bit extra he wants for the hi-comp and smash on b16’s and gsrs
Looks like they are about an hour away from me and the motor is $699 for the high comp. Seems like that might be a good route to go, I can just drop it, do routine maintenance and go. Thank you for the reply.
I found out you cannot legally pass smog with a B20 in an Integra in CA. It will not pass BAR inspection either. A B20 is classed as a truck engine therefor you cannot put it in a car. I have decided I am going to take my B18 block, pistons and rods in to the machine shop today after work and have that motor fixed.
Smog isn’t an issue. B20s have been accepted as replacement motors for our cars since 2009. They even changed the vehicle classifications to heavy duty and light duty. Crv is light duty. Its not a myth anymore about b20s. They can be bard. I have the proof in my engine bay.
It’s the cheaper option, and under warranty. When my motor went, I really wanted something that incase something was wrong with it, I could take back for another. Especially when you’re on a budget, it’s better than taking your chances a not really knowing what you’re getting.
Just switch everything over to the b20, intake, exhaust, etc.
You’ll need to extend wiring for one of the switches, you can refer back in my thread to see a picture of it. When you do it I would solder and tape or heat shrink the area and use wire loom to make it look “stock” looking. Other people that have gone to BAR say they are sticklers for things like that, in my case I have 2 black wires running from the transmission all the way to fire wall, they didn’t say anything.
One of coolant lines on the FITV needs to be plugged because it will have no place to go on the newer motor, B18B’s are the same.
As for the process, they wouldn’t let me watch so I don’t know what they do other than the smog portion. I asked the guy if I could watch and they said no. The appointment took about an hour. If you pass they will ask you to pick out a place to put the label and then ask you to “secure” the hood. You then sign a paper stating you secured the hood, pay and leave.
The fee is something I didn’t really look into. Most people on the internet will be like “it’s 90 just for the inspection” , my cousin said when he went to BAR they charged him $140, but he was putting a b series in a hatchback. I think because this is just a replacement motor for us b series guys, they just charge the smog cert fee. $8.25
hmotorsonline only gives you a 30 day start-up guarantee warranty. The place you got yours from gives you one yr but they are far from me, not sure how much shipping would be. I am thinking about giving them a call. I think it will be the cheaper option even with paying shipping.
I saw the wire you had to extend and it looked pretty good, I will do it the same way. I want to do this soon and get my car running. I have a buddy that is going to help me put the motor in so hopefully it goes smooth.
I thought about doing this. I really want to get a vtec head and run a turbo setup, which would be the better option for that. Nothing extreme as I will mainly use this car as my daily driver, I have always wanted vtec and turbo.
Well I have decided and I ordered a B20B high comp motor from HMotorsOnline. I should be picking it up this Saturday and will start on putting it in right away. I have a friend who is going to help me put it in so hopefully that goes well and we can get a lot done.
how much hmotorsolnine want? cause i seen some real goos deals on craiglist b20 and install for you for cheap so you may want to look in to that…good luck
, I have been a member for a couple years now but I have mostly lurked around:read:. I bought my '90 teg gs db1 in late '08 and drove it for a few months before I spun a bearing some time in '09. It has been sitting around waiting to be fixed for the past almost 5 years. I finally started on it after my wife said to either fix it or get rid of it. We really need a second car and we are on a tight budget so I figured that fixing this car would be the best bet (I do not want to get rid of my teg). I am mainly going to use it as my daily driver to and from work that is 5 miles away. I bought a B20B short block off Craigs list for $50 a few years ago and it has been sitting. I have always want a B20 and it seemed to good to pass up. That is proving to be a mistake. I took my stock head, B20B short block and B18A1 crank to a machine shop to have them fixed and motor built. Here is the quote they gave me;