My p/s doesn’t work, it has no belt and the rack leaks so I suspect if it had a belt it wouldn’t work anyway. I’m used to it and I prefer the feel of no p/s but are you saying unless I loop it I won’t notice a difference?
yes, i just got 37 mpg on the last tank…my best ever. 596km on 41 litres
of course…i had to drive like a grandma to get that, and now i can’t stay off the gas because i forgot what it feels like…
Here in Canada I’m averaging about 7.5 L/100km pure stop&go city driving (about 32 us mpg), my best was 6.7 L/100km city (about 35 mpg) and on the highway driving around 70 mph I get usually around 33-34 mpg. This is on 87 octane fuel.
During the winter I usually get over 10L/100km, mainly due to winter tires, having the heater going, and idling alot to warm up.
I don’t really drive that slowly, but I don’t drive super hard either.
I try not to give alot of throttle, brake as little as possible, take corners relatively quickly to avoid having to accelerate, and turn off the engine at long stoplights (anything >30secs I shut 'er down).
Read this article, some excellent tips on how to improve fuel efficiency http://www.motherjones.com/news/feature/2007/01/king_of_the_hypermilers.html
I plan on removing A/C very soon, hopefully this helps me out some more.
Just another data point for you guys:
'90 RS. Stock. 5spd. original clutch. 161k at the moment.
No P/S or A/C
Falken Ziex 512s @ 51 psi
K&N air filter (but not cleaned since '05…I should do that)
Average of 29.59x mpg since October 2005. As high as 37 mpg in spring/fall, windows up, highway driving and as low as 24 mpg winter, city driving, snow on roads.
That average includes time spent idling/troubleshooting, auto- and rally-crosses, spirited runs through the blue ridge and lehigh valley mountains, hauling furniture and appliances, etc, etc. I don’t baby the car. The high mpg values in the 35-37 mpg range are usually due to rural highway cruising at around 50-55 mph, about where many cars are most efficient.
In that time frame, plugs, wires, all belts, distributor, exhaust, have been replaced with oem parts. Never saw any changes in mileage that were significant beyond the error induced by variances in fuel pump kickoff levels, not even since the power steering removal. In my experience, the biggest influence was increased tire pressures. Beyond that, for me, it has to do primarily with driving conditions, but of course conditions will alter driving style to some extent.
I started keeping a spreadsheet of data of my MPG and so far I have three entries, 26, 25, and 25 MPG. Thats strictly city driving. This is my car:
—Engine—
- Engine swap, put in a JDM B20B
- NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
- NGK Premium spark plug wires
- Valvoline full synthetic 5w30 oil
- Fram full synthetic oil filter
—Transmission—
- Transmission swap, put in a JDM S1
- GM Synchromesh Friction Modified manual transmission fluid
—Intake—
- AEM short ram intake
- K&N air filter
—Fuel—
- AEM adjustable fuel pressure regulator
- Fuel pressure gauge on fuel filter
—Exhaust—
- DC Sports 4-2-1 two piece ceramic header
- Magnaflow High-Flow catalytic converter
- Solo Performance Storm series muffler
- Tuned exhaust tip
—Suspension—
- KYB AGX struts
- Skunk2 coilovers
- Skunk2 front camber kit
- Custom rear camber kit
- GekiZone Performance front upper strut brace
- GekiZone Performance rear upper strut brace
- GekiZone Performance rear lower strut tie bar
- GekiZone Performance C-pillar brace bar
—Wheels—
SUMMER
- 17" Riax gunmetal with polished lip, 10 spoke
- Sceptor 205/40/17 summer tires
WINTER - 14" 90-92 Mazda Miata rims, painted gunmetal, 7 spoke
- Radial 195/60/14 winter tires
—Engine Management—
- JDM P08 ECU chipped to run the JDM B20B
- NGK O2 sensor
- 4 gauge main ground cables
- Relocated battery to the trunk
—Shift Linkage—
- B&M short shifter
- Energy Suspension shifter bushings
- Mugen replica shift knob
—Weight Reduction—
- Removed air conditioning
- Removed power steering
- Removed spare tire and jack
I’m not sure if I should be able to get better than 25-27 MPG strictly city driving, any other B20’s out there with B16 trannsmissions that can chime in?
I know I’m totally up to date on all my regular maintance too, I keep a notepad on my computer with all the mileage due dates for my tune up stuff thats how well I take care of my car.
DUE MAINTENANCE:
oil - 323 500
PCV valve - 330 000
valve adjustment - 332 000
distributor cap and rotor - 338 000
air filter - 355 000
tranny fluid - 355 000
spark plugs - 380 000
spark plug wires - 361 000
fuel filter - 366 000
o2 sensor - 416 000
timing belt and water pump - 330 000
coolant - approximately feburary 2010 or when tested and shows badly
Maybe I should run some fuel injector cleaner through or something… hmm I’ve also thought about getting a Magnaflow muffler too, see if that makes any difference.
[QUOTE=roadkilled75;1888784]Just another data point for you guys:
'90 RS. Stock. 5spd. original clutch. 161k at the moment.
No P/S or A/C
Falken Ziex 512s @ 51 psi
K&N air filter (but not cleaned since '05…I should do that)
Average of 29.59x mpg since October 2005. As high as 37 mpg in spring/fall, windows up, highway driving and as low as 24 mpg winter, city driving, snow on roads.
That average includes time spent idling/troubleshooting, auto- and rally-crosses, spirited runs through the blue ridge and lehigh valley mountains, hauling furniture and appliances, etc, etc. I don’t baby the car. The high mpg values in the 35-37 mpg range are usually due to rural highway cruising at around 50-55 mph, about where many cars are most efficient.
In that time frame, plugs, wires, all belts, distributor, exhaust, have been replaced with oem parts. Never saw any changes in mileage that were significant beyond the error induced by variances in fuel pump kickoff levels, not even since the power steering removal. In my experience, the biggest influence was increased tire pressures. Beyond that, for me, it has to do primarily with driving conditions, but of course conditions will alter driving style to some extent.[/QUOTE]
51 PSI!?!?!? Man you are asking for trouble if you run over something at high speed.
It’s not that bad.
Steve
yikes, running falkens at their max pressure (measured cold i assume) is dangerous imo…
i can get 34 mpg highway consistently with a stock engine w/ 174k miles. And I do use my A/C a lot, though i try to open my windows on the streets at low speeds (<= 35 mph) I too have Falken 512s inflated at 35 psi.
I have P/S, A/C, but manual locks, mirrors, and windows. (RS)
i am due for a tune up (last one was over a year ago and around 30k miles ago)
fuel economy
Get a flux capacitor!!
Trouble is, they really don’t work until you hit 88 mph.
What is the concern with high psi, so long as it is not above the tire’s maximum? I.E. why would you say it is more dangerous to run a ziex at 49psi cold (51 max) than an average tire at 33 psi cold (35 max)? The max ratings are at cold psi, and surely include a factor of safety. Is it a question of the tire’s response to an unpredicted situation such as a pothole or debris? How would this response be different between 35 and 50 psi? I would think it would be negligible.
No, I’m not trying to be a dick - it’s a serious question that I’m asking because I’ve never heard of such a thing before, yet I know that NCteg91 in particular seems to know his stuff real well.
Running your tires at that kind of pressure has got to be extremely uncomfortable. Also, you probably lose a lot of traction in doing so. Some idiot put about 40psi in my tires one time when I went to get it aligned and I noticed I had almost no traction in the rain, especially on hills. Once I discovered what the problem was and dropped the pressure back down to around 32psi, the car drove fine again. I would not inflate any tire above 35psi on our cars (the factory specification is 28psi).
For the person asking about B20’s, my fully tuned B20Z got 31mpg with the stock transmission and currently gets 27mpg with a JDM S1 transmission. That is around town / backroads / fairly spirited driving.
well the falkens’ sidewalls bend like butter. Higher pressures would help with sidewall flex i would assume, but you would also be changing the shape/size of your contact patch with higher than normal pressures, therefore affecting tire wear.
the oem michelins i’m sure have a max inflation pressure higher than what the door sticker says. There obviously must be a reason why honda recommends a certain pressure instead of running the maximum pressure in tires. probably a balance between traction, ride, and economy.
why would you assume that?
just a guess, i mean an overinflated wheel will be resistant to compression (sidewall flex), no? less rolling resistance being a byproduct? :shrug:
i’m just speaking in terms of what i’ve seen with bicycle tires (which my road bike’s tires are going flat…goodness its a waste of energy trying to pedal)…car tires would operate the same no? and i’ve read that the 512s dont have the stiffest sidewalls.
a google search tells me i’m not wrong in thinking this.
edit: now that i think about it more, it definitely makes sense. An under inflated tire’s sidewall will obviously flex more comapred to an over inflated tire’s sidewall. I mean if the tire was completely flat, your sidewall would’nt exist because it folds onto itself. I’ve accidentally rode my road bike with a nearly flat rear tire and my sidewalls are shot (natural gum). A lot of wear on the sidewalls after that, i may need a new tire. As a result i also lost traction and almost pulled a “low side” on my road bike when turning.
The falkens DO have very soft sidewalls, at least in 60 series. Low profile sizes, I believe, are better, but I’ve never driven them.
also take into consideration the weight of the car. a heavier car will be able to compress the tire enough to get a nice sized contact patch. A lighter car using the same exact wheels (psi is relative to the car’s weight, right? say i put my 'tegs wheels on the honda odyssey, it would take more psi to properly inflate the tires due to weight.) will have trouble creating the same sized contact patch.
over inflation, from what i’ve read, can cause a harsh ride, traction issues, and uneven wear. Extremely inflated tires would not be able to withstand road hazards, and have the danger of blowouts when hitting a hazard (whatever that may be), also a decreased carrying capacity (more weight on max inflated tires would increase chance of a blowout, combined with the running temperature of tires). Which is why honda prescribes the psi on the door, leaving a nice buffer to the maximum psi.
I’m aware of the contact patch changes and traction tradeoffs. Harsh ride isn’t really there, and excessive wear of any kind hasn’t shown itself in the year or so I have run at high psi.
As for the dangers of hitting debris, I guess that’s a risk I’m taking. Thanks for the input.
i misunderstood what you were saying.
“Higher pressures would help with sidewall flex i would assume”
i thought you meant that higher pressure would make the sidewalls flex more.
[QUOTE=phatcardesignz;1896590]Running your tires at that kind of pressure has got to be extremely uncomfortable. Also, you probably lose a lot of traction in doing so. Some idiot put about 40psi in my tires one time when I went to get it aligned and I noticed I had almost no traction in the rain, especially on hills. Once I discovered what the problem was and dropped the pressure back down to around 32psi, the car drove fine again. I would not inflate any tire above 35psi on our cars (the factory specification is 28psi).
For the person asking about B20’s, my fully tuned B20Z got 31mpg with the stock transmission and currently gets 27mpg with a JDM S1 transmission. That is around town / backroads / fairly spirited driving.[/QUOTE]
Hmmm and those MPG ratings are city ratings eh? Mine are purely city, and spirited driving daily, it’s impossible to granny a whole tank lol. I just wanna make sure I’m not missing a tune-up item that could be screwing me over thats why I posted my lists up above.
^Yep I rarely ever get on the highway, and when I do, I’m not cruising. The best way to get gas mileage out of a B20 is to use an LS transmission, have it dyno tuned, and keep your foot out of it. My B16 tranny is killing my gas mileage, but it is just too much fun.