Okay. Let’s see here. The YS1 is the transmission most b18a1 engines have attached to it- the one you probably have on their right now. Look next to the header on its left side. Now down/over at the tranny. There should be a sticker right there. That will tell you what type of tranny you have.
As far as the work goes… You need a Hanyes/Helms manual. It’s the first thing you should buy for your car. It’s the service manual that tells you how to do the work. Or you gotta got to a good shop. You’ll need some dyno time to tune all that stuff anyway. Without tuning; all of it is useless.
Whay you have is all you can get for the intake/exhaust components. The only part you don’t have is a throttle body. The engine is basically a big air pump. The better the flow, the faster you go. Fuel and Spark mods just help everything work smoothly. Get all your exhaust parts on & you’re looking at around 15-20 hp extra. That’s an estimate BTW; so don’t quote me on it.
You shouldn’t have to spend more than the installation & tuning of all that stuff. Like I said earlier; you’re about tops for daily driver-friendly mods. Put all that stuff on & get some engine managment and you’ll probably have 190 estimated horses, give or take. That is if you go by the stock number of 140 original horses estimated. Hope all this helps. :burnout: :manual:
One question I gotta ask you though… Why did you get all this stuff without researching everything first? You have to know what your getting into before you jump into anything; especially a build-up.
For engine managment you got a lot of choices. Hondata and Crome are 2 of the best. I’d just call Hondata and tell them what you got, AND what you want to get out of this build, & they’ll set you up right. A word of advice though- keep the extra questions on G2IC; cause they won’t want to explain every little thing to you.
No, you should not ditch the skunk2 IM. I was saying to hold off on it til you get camshafts & cam gears to get the most out of these combined parts.
You really don’t need a throttle body, but if you want one, go Skunk2. I was just saying you have every part you can buy for the air/exhaust system besides the throttle body.
Keep all ur MSD parts except the Ignition control box 'cause the stock one is good up to around 300hp. No need to upgrade it. Keep the NGK plugs.
You can keep the header you have. It’s a great header. It can crack after a while though. The Megan header is $150, is made of Stainless steel,(so it looks better and won’t crack) & has the same design characteristics of the DC.
I like Rota wheels. They are replicas of JDM wheels like Spoon, Mugen, Sprint Hart, etc. Look on Rota.com and check out some of their styles. Look at the photo gallery of some designs on other cars. No, DA teg pics, but they got pics of CRXs and Civics with these rims on them. Should be a good comparison. Most of their designs have the lip polished as an option; along with many colors like bronze, black, & gunmetal. Around $800 for a rim/tire package in 15".
:whew: OK, last question you had: It depends on where you go as far as prices on dyno time/tuning. It isn’t cheap persay, but it HAS to be done. When you tune it all up, all you parts will work in harmony to give you the max potential of everything you have. You can’t just throw a bunch of parts together & expect quality results w/o tuning.
Hit me up if you need anything else. BTW- you got great advice on everything you bought; just needed some knowledge to go along with the parts.Thank those people for steering you right. :burnout: :manual:
the DC Sports header IS the STAINLESS STEEL one…it’s just used
-what would be a step up from Megan and DC??
-wouldn’t Skunk2 be as good or better than Crower for cams and cam gears? I assume that if I got these I’d have to replace the drive train too, right? (like springs and retainers)
-is it worth it to switch out the pulleys with AEM or Unorthodox?
(all three or just the two top ones?)
-also, what’s involved in headwork and lower end balancing?
-what about P&P on the IM or the head?
-btw, I’m really not opposed to doing a swap. I’m sure it would be all the more fun driving with a better motor whether this is a daily driver or street/strip…it has 146,*** miles on it anyway - and this is my main hobby where most of my extra spending money goes towards. I wanna do it right whichever direction I take.
-so, for the Hondata - I basically just tell them what I have and tell them I want to get the best out of it then?
-and for a chip, shouldn’t I just get a Skunk2 ECU and go OBD-1???
(I assume that would mean changing out my distro too, right?)
A…Keep the header. If you want more power/better flow, get the 4-1.
B… The 4-1 is better.
C… Yes. Go Skunk if you can, but I can’t find b18a1 cams/ gears from them.
If you get stage one cams, you should be able to keep your stock retainers and springs; but it couldn’t hurt.
D… Yeah, the pulleys free up horses. Get them all.
E… Balance & Blueprint the bottom. Port & Polish the top.
F… see above. I’d do it if I could; & will when I’m ready. No real need to P&P the new Skunk2 IM. It’s already made to optimum specs.
G… If you wanna swap then do it. If you wanna use the parts you have then when you’re done the motor is basically new again. The mileage won’t mean shit.
H…Yes.
I… I said get EITHER a chip or engine managment; like a plug & play setup.
If you want a new ECU, I don’t really know if/how ODB 1 will help. Your ECU ought to work fine w/ plug & play or a custom chip. It’s probably cheaper too.
One thing. You said originally you wanted a daily driver. It sounds like you want a little more than that. I gotta say though, after replacing nearly every part on your powerplant, you’ll have the most reliable (& one of the most powerful) daily drivers I’ve ever seen or heard of for that matter. That said; you don’t have to do all this to get a bad ass daily driver. It’s kinda going beyond that point now. DAILY DRIVER is the key word here. The setup you’re getting to is more like weekend track car material. :burnout: :manual:
oh i totally forgot…hytech(spl) is a bad ass setup…header that is…but they make a full exhaust(not for our cars but can me modified to fit) and from what my buddy said was one of the best things he did to his car.
btlancaster…ill email you in the morning…i just got back from VIR and I am DOOOOOOGGGGG tired.
i love the sound of this setup. sounds like youve got pretty much everything covered. however with the amount of money it sounds like you are/are going to spend it would be cheaper to go with a swap. for about 3500 bux you can get a complete b18c swap. thats what i would do if i had the cash. of course i dont so b18b here i come. haha
Yeah, I love what he’s got goin too. It’s basically what I hope to accomplish w/ my B18a1; thats why I’ve been tryin to help so much.
The main benefit of it (at least in my case) is that you can add parts as you go, instead of droppin $3500 all at once. Besides, when he’s done it’ll be fully built & ready to rock! With the swap, you still need performance parts later so up goes the $$!
I’d really like to see where this can go. Best of luck btlancaster! Do it right & reap the rewards! Hit me up if you need any more help. :burnout: :manual:
do you do all your own work? maybe you could help me out with this project if you’re interested. tell me why a B20 impaticular vs. the other B’s w/ vtec?
b20 is cheap you could get one for $800.its pretty much the same engine you have now but a 2.0 sorry i have too many projects so i cant help you out. my advice to you is search.advanced search titles only b20. read read read and then read some more.v-tec is expensive and you need a diffrent trans
Guess you didn’t read everything. If he rebuilds like he’s talkin about then he’ll have a basically brand new motor. Those miles won’t mean shit & it’ll be better than the B20. With the B20 you need a tranny too huh? Whats that gonna run? Gotta do a hydro swap on that too. Can he use all the other parts on the B20? Will they be effective on that motor or will they inhibit it? You already got all the parts, why not use em? Wish I had the money, I’d buy them all. :burnout: :manual:
not sure what your talking about? the b20 will work fine with the ys1.the sk2 intake will bolt on to his head and so will his header.and if he wanted to put some crower stage 1 on that head he could do that too.
You say the B20 has vtec? “vtec is expensive and you need a diff, trans” A non VTEC header and/or IM will not work just cause they bolt on. The motor doesn’t get the flow it needs. Can’t use a non vtec cam either. Where’s the 3rd lobe. If your’e suggesting a CR/VTEC then you gotta spend the money on the head swap too. I didn’t think the B20 had vtec hence the swap. He wants a daily driver, and already has the parts. Why you want him to spend even more? Still gotta get it all installed and tuned. Screw a straight B20 swap over this. :burnout: :manual: Oh yeah, why would you put a cam from a smaller motor in a bigger one?
Oh, okay. I got you. I’m not tryin’ to start a flame or anything, I just can’t see the point of a swap if you got a stash of parts & the funds to rebuild, tune, etc. Mainly it’s the motor itself. You already got it & (w/ all those parts)
are commited to building it. If the motor/trans is good & you’re gonna build a full motor regardless of which one/type it is, then why switch? If you want
more power later then just do an ls head swap & bam! Saves money, has many possibities, & most of the stock parts can handle 200hp or more.
Bret, If you want to install anything, feel free to email me about help. I can use the shop where I work, the bays & yard just have to be empty every workday. After work it good, it just has to leave at the end of the night. I have already installed you clutch & flywheel, so I guess I can help out more. I know that there isin’t very many shops here in town.
I have since bought a 91 GS because my GS-R got wrecked in the front. I’m in the process of stripping the under-hood in prep for my b16a.