yep, that was mine
lemme know when you have time to do anything and I’ll work around your schedule
thanks,
Brett
just to clarify the b20z is not vtech. it is the b20 with the higher compression ratio. it makes like 20 more hp than the usdm b20b. b20z is usdm late model (99-01 i believe). jdm b20b from the same years is also higher comp. ratio and therefore higher hp.
cool:up:
any more new news about this build ?
checked with a local machine shop for the engine work, but they don’t remove or replace the engine - you gotta get it out and bring it to them.
also checked another local shop to find out about removing/replacing the engine and they say that it wouldn’t do me any good to have the machine shop work done because in their opinion/experience - it wouldn’t be worth it due to no noticable whp gains:shrug:
they do sport compact work like this regularly - do they just not know what they’re talking about??
anybody know of somewhere near where I’m located that I can go to for this stuff that knows what they’re doing??
they also told me that vtec cams will work in my motor so if I wanted to do a swap later I wouldn’t have to get different cams.
is this true?
Save all your money that you can, sell all your parts, and buy a damn type-r motor and be done with it.
I think they’re wrong. Vtec cams have a 3rd lobe on them. I’m not sure but I think they wouldn’t fit/work for that reason.
The machine shop work WOULD make a difference. How wouldn’t better flow help?
then is the info in this thread based on fact and observation that has already been proven on a B18A1 by you or someone else or based on theory?
and in doing this type of “build” does that inlcude replacing any other internals that haven’t been mentioned after the machine shop work? (this question is in re: to the statement said about coming out of the machine shop + the parts I have making the motor like new again)
the machine shop also said that the cost would be between 3-500 bucks and that it wouldn’t be necessary or worth it to do anything but p&p the exhaust side of the head.
the other shop said it would be 6 hours labor to do the removing and reinstalling of the motor. (I think they charge around $65 and hour)
this all puts me in a quandry again of what to do and where to go to get it done
The info is fact & observation; both on b18a1 & other motors. As stated earlier I plan on doing a similar build to my b18a1, & I try to get all the facts before divin’ into something, so you caught me at a good time. I’ve had many friends do various builds on many types of motors, & I’ve been there through alot of them. I do 90% of my own work, so it comes with experience. Plus, research is the most valuable tool you can have. It’s just like Framing a house- w/o a good blueprint to go by, & the knowledge to build it right, you’ll end up with a cracker box. Good people to help you along are important too. It’s how you learn right from wrong. (concerning the car of course) I wouldn’t steer you wrong, or post so much info if I didn’t know. Has anyone argued my info yet?
I’m just not too sure vtec cams are going to work, as said in the other post. Not to mention that Vtec cams are built for Vtec, which centers around the 3rd lobe being there. When Vtec engages, a pin is sent through the 2nd & 3rd lobe by oil pressure, thereby making a big ass lobe to pump mass air in @ higher RPMs.
With that in mind, you begin to think that your head won’t even fit the Vtec cams. But as I said, I’m not 100% sure, as I’ve never came across this idea. I always assumed it wouldn’t work. Stranger things have happened. Look @ the CR/Vtec swap. Who’d of thought that would work?
Yeah, freshen up the bottom w/ new rings, bearings & seals. Pistons shouldn’t be needed right now, not with the goals set here. Crank
won’t be needed unless it’s damaged.
I don’t do machining, so I can’t debate that. Check how long they’ve been doing Honda specific work, particularly on your engine type. After that, make a decision to stay there or go to another place. Just make sure you do the research. In short analogy, you’re doing heart surgery. That’s what the engine is, & you want the healthiest heart you can get. (within the relm of your build of course.)
BTW- I checked on the Balance & Blueprint, & you’ll be OK w/o it. You don’t want a race engine, so I wouldn’t lose sleep over no B&B.
Sorry to misinform you on that one. It was starting to seem like you want more power later on, (maybe not so later?) & if you do, then you may want a B&B. Don’t wanna have to tear down the motor twice. Be honest with yourself & ask if a super daily driver is what you want, or do you wanna race?
Yeah, takin out an engine isn’t quick & easy, but that seems pretty quick for removal/install. It unfortunetly comes to more money than you expect to get the build together. That’s the breaks though. But the outcome will be well worth it. Keep us posted. :burnout: :manual:
great info here…
I also have a b18a1 that I want to build up on for autocross.
I thought of swaping or geting a gs-r G2, but I want more torque, so the b18a1 comes already with 10ft/lbs of torque more that gs-r engine.
Also I read, on another theread, something about taking a b18a to 7500rpms, is that true, or I misread something.
My problem is money flow, so internal work will not be done until I graduate from college and get a better job.
When ever someone does something to their b18a1 please post a write up. Include please tunning of parts, I am learning as I get new parts.
That(7500) is possible, but it probably shouldn’t be used for a daily driver @ that point. For autocross, maybe, but it’ll be ran @ high rpms for a great amount of time, so prevention & care against badness (can’t think right now)& gremlins should be priority. I.E.- oil cooler, better flowing oil pan, better radiator, & maybe a trans cooler. Somethings like this (& proper reasearch on your specific goals/project) should do you right.
Like I said earlier, that’s the beauty of the b18a1, it’s torquey, & you already have it. If you go N/A then you can build gradually, buying what parts you want when you’re ready; & when money allows. I have a 3 yr old & am the main provider for her & my fiancee’. I totally understand about the budget issue. Good luck to all of you whatever you do. :burnout: :manual:
I got some doubts.
What is Machine Shop Work?
What is Balance and Blue print?
EDIT: Can you post the links to most of the websites of the products mentioned here, I can’t find most of them.
:burnout: A machine shop does all the honing, shaving, boring, etc to the engine parts, Thereby improving flow & performance.
Balance: rods/ pistons are shaved of material in certain places to provide a uniform weight of all rod/piston sets. The weight is usually determined by the lightest set before process begins.
Blueprinting: Making sure all block components are to either OEM specs or specs for your build by checking torque specs, clearances, tolerances, deck height, etc. All components & aforementioned areas covered are documented.
Links can be posted, but your best bet is Summit or some other performance parts distributor. It wasn’t hard for me to find the parts, just search each one on Ebay, Google, etc. You gotta do your own legwork bro. I can only give you the knowledge. :burnout: :manual:
Wait a min. I’ll compile a list & post it here. Damn you got lucky to catch me in a mood good enough to do all this. It’s gonna take some time, so be patient. :burnout: :manual:
hehehe thanks…
I tried searching all of the parts, but I always the wrong part…meaning its the right part but always for some other car
thanks again
Ok, it was alot easier than I thought.
http://morepowerracing.com : has Skunk2 products @ good price, other parts available here too.
http://summitracing.com : has most of the other parts listed.
Also check Ebay but be careful. If you get a name brand part, make sure some kind of proof of authenticity is with said part.
http://jcwhitney.com : they have most parts too.
http://crower.com : has the cams. Just type in your engine type (B18a1)in the part number box @ top right corner.
You can also search for the man. website & find the parts that way. These sites above just have more availability for the variety of parts mentioned; plus they have better prices. Hope this helps. :burnout: :manual:
PLEASE for the love of god!!! DO NOT LISTEN TO THESE PEOPLE !!!
They have no clue on what they are talking about:gunright:
I think most of these people on here are just typing to type:stfu:
Everybody please read this twice!
Best mod for any NA(non turbo) b18a/b is a short geared tranny.
Do a search and you will find out why…
…so now that your blasting around with your short geared tranny…
SELL all your parts except your skunk2 IM, put that bitch on, but first get you T-body bored out and port matched to the IM, then get some cam gears, put those on, next, FPR & gauge, put those on, then put a 4-1 header w/2.5in. outlet on, then mandrel bent 2.5in. Exhaust (make sure your muff. is 2.5in all the way thru too!)
Now do all maintenance w/Honda(oem) parts(i.e. new:plugs,wires,cap,rotor,fuel filter,oil,oil filter, and anything else that looks worn out)
Now go get a tune!!!
And I bet you will have more power then any of these dumb shits that tell what to do(that have probably never done anything to there car), you will thank me later!
parts total:
Short geared tranny $350-$$$$
T-body bored out and matched to your IM $200-250
cam gears $100-200
FPR&gauge $75-150
4-1 header $100-$$$$
Exhaust $300-500
Maintenance parts $100
basic tuning of cam gears and fpr on a good dyno $100-200
Knowing that you have a faster/more reliable car then 80% of the people on this board, that spend more then this on just a I/H/E…$$$$$PRICELESS$$$$$
P.S. I had this exact same setup on my 92ls-se, it was one of my favorite integras I’ve owned:D
Now when you want more power, break that motor open and dig in…
…with this setup you will be ready for it.
this should be move to High-Tech, Hybrids & Aftermarket Engine Performance
lazer does have a point…yall have to keep in mind this is his daily driver not a drag strip car…i agree with lazers set ups and that short gear tranny will probably make up for 15 hp that he wont have…i have about the same set up for the most part other than a 75 shot with a NX kit(Which i love)
i give a thumbs up to lazers set up and there is no point to waste time and sell and rebuy other parts if he already has a bunch that he can use…may not be the best but like he said its a daily driver…
BTW i have a 93 LS-SE which is practically identical to Lazers
I agree that would be a good setup, but he does already have most of these parts. So what would be wrong with using them vs. OEM? They’re all tried & tested parts. Plus, if you read into it, he seems to want more than a D.D.; so here’s how to get it.
What kind of shorter geared tranny? Wouldn’t that be fine on the setup btlancaster mentioned? I was just told yesterday @ a G2IC meet that besides 2nd & final drive, our tranny is the same as a type R tranny; why not regear the stock YS1 box?
As I said, I agree with your points, but what’s with the “they’re probably lying just to post” & “they don’t know what they’re talking about” cracks? Harsh man, harsh.
I’ve done my research on a similar setup as the one btlancaster wants & all these parts/techniques have shown great results in this regard. I don’t think I’ve said anything that can’t be backed up.
I do like the cost effectiveness of the setup lazerplanes mentioned though. Btlancaster does seem to be concered about that, & as I said, this isn’t the MOST cost effective set-up, just one that’ll get him what he asked for.
:burnout: :manual: