Hey it’s a long shot but I once switched §§§§§'s one time and for some reason the tach didn’t work but when I switched to a different one it started working again. My guess was wiring so if that helps any that’s all I got.
yea im not sure what caused it cause it worked great, pulled the cluster, and did a bunch of shit and now it doesnt work lol. I have a §§§§§ i can borrow from a friend to test. i may do that.
So i worked on the car tonight. I was able to fix my tach problem! turned out the plug that ran from the cluster to the fuse box, 2 of the pins bent in which wasnt allowing a connection for the tach.
I also tested my wiper switch with a ohmmeter and the switch only had continuity on the high setting, as did the other switch i had :(. A friend will be picking me up another switch, and one without a rear windshield wiper switch too!
Also did a little mod on the fog light switch thanks to G2ICs teg tips, so i can use my fogs whenever the car is on now.
I also pulled the bulbs out of the switches and colored them amber to match the rest of the amber in the front, looks great!
I was able to install my fresh new vents, and switches, so now i have the cluster and bezel installed.
the only thing i cant figure out is why my cluster will light even without the dimmer switch plugged in, which is causing me not to be able to adjust the brightness of it. its not really a big deal as the brightness its at works for me, but i kind of wanted to fix it.
tomorrow im switching on the p75 intake mani as a friend needs the sensors back asap. And then ill be getting the a/c to work!
So tonight i switched out the PR4 intake manifold out for the P75 intake manifold.
I was also able fixed my catch can problem, the gasket was toast, and the hose to the PCV valve, well… it wasnt there at all. So i capped one end off, and i fed the other back into the block so the can still loops. Since i still had to run a PCV valve i decided to switch the b1 red valve cover back on, and installed the PCV valve in that valve cover.
I also looped the coolant lines, to bypass the sensors, and also installed my OBX thermal intake manifold gasket.
a friend let me use his fuel pressure gauge so i could set the adjustable FPR that came on the new fuel rail.
I Also replaced the o-rings on the injectors, and 2 of my injectors were actually broken at the bottom part, so i switched them out with some i had laying around.
Since the p75 mani went in, i had to extend the MAP sensor plug, but i was able to delete all the crap that was attached to the fire wall, and got rid of the charcoal canister, and fed the vent line, down under the firewall.
I also relocated the clutch cable under the manifold to tuck it away.
Unfortunately after i got it all finished and started up, i noticed the return line from the FPR was leaking badly, so i had to quit for tonight, since it was 12am. Tomorrow when i get home from class ill replace that hose and all should be good. It looks like a completely different engine bay with that manifold in there.
Ill have pics of everything tomorrow.
you can also just plug your pcv valve into that breater box andjust run a hose up.
looks like your putting in a lot work man. 
[QUOTE=BLKACK1;2211167]you can also just plug your pcv valve into that breater box andjust run a hose up.
looks like your putting in a lot work man. [/QUOTE]
yea i could have, cause i had it setup like that at first but i didnt have a hose that would be long enough, so i just made it work with what i had. Plus i like the b1 cover more anyway lol.
and thanks man. I still have a lot to do in a week to get it ready for the huge meet on the 7th.
here are the pics as promised
the old b1 cover back on, and the p75 mani on.
all new hoses for everything
map sensor plug extended
fuel pressure gauge my friends letting me borrow
I was able to finally get the car to run and was able to set the idle, for some reason i cant get it bellow 1k but im ok with that lol. Also since i looped the coolant lines, and im using a thermal gasket, the intake mani doesnt even get hot!! its deff a worth while upgrade for any motor.
unfortunately while i was checking for vacuum leaks, i had rested my hand on my §§§§§ and felt a very odd clunking feeling, and noise. so i pulled it off and i found this…
video of the fun…
http://s762.photobucket.com/albums/xx261/JamesEC87/?action=view¤t=P1080297.mp4
I tried to unscrew it since it was an allen key it stripped… so i pulled it off, and had to use vice grips to get it out. I was able to find another screw, and when i was tightening the screw…the head sheered right the fuck off…
picked up another §§§§§ from kenrick… shit had red dust all inside of it… so thats fucked.
peep the 2nd §§§§§ on the right…
so now i have 2 obd0 ls dizzys in parts, trying to just find a obd0 ls shell even, i have everything for it. But at the same time im currently getting my obd1 shit together so i can just convert it, cause i will not buy a new obd0 §§§§§. a cheap used one i can do tho. I want this fucking this running for the 7th or i will shoot someone…
Also i was able to fix the rear sunroof drains with a couple of hoses, and the grommets i pulled out they actually fit where the cruise cable use to be, so i have that blocked off now.
So i just have to fix this §§§§§ issue and shes perfectly good to drive (and the throttle response with the new mani is great, cant wait to test drive it.
5-3-11
ok so i decided what im doing.
Juan (jdm89ef9) dropped off the engine harness side obd1 §§§§§ plug for me.
I was able to finally get the PR4 shell and a donor OBD0 ecu for pins from Kenny (Turbogixxer).
My friend Pat is going to trade my burnt P06 board for a chipped P06 one so Ill have the ECU done.
And i have a OBD1 LS §§§§§ i got from K.C., thats been gutted for a friend, so Mike (mr. clean Eg coupe) will be hooking me up with internal parts so i can get it running.
and i finished this today (the larger wire is for vtec, and the other is for the CEL indicator, but the chip will prob disable needing to use that)
ok so after trying to plug that harness in, and checking to make sure it wasnt the ECU, i tore down the jumper harness and started over. It turns out i read the OBD0 plugs wrong with the diagram i had… my fault.
so after almost 2 days of redoing this it finally works. The car runs, and has officially been converted to OBD1. Kenny will be hooking it up with neptune asap too, im just on a crap map for now.
new harness
and the ECU, my CEL jumper (temp just cause i had a code, turned out 2 wires were switched for the TPS) and jumper harness
car had a problem with the ECU map. threw in Kenricks and the car hauled ass. So i switched mine back in, and same problem. Later on in the day i tried it again and got a code 10 for the IAT, pulled it out, its burnt to hell. But the motor revs like its suppose to and sounds healthy again lol. havent driven it really yet, so thats on the list to do tomorrow. also put all my interior back in my car (minus the 4 top pieces) and i have to install the speakers i picked up from Neo tomorrow too. Car looks and feels like an actual car again lol.
updated shot of the bay. Switched a couple plugs to OBD1 style, found my Spoon reservoir cover finally, and cleaned the firewall up a little.
and interior shots
im going to find some carpet and cover the back of the rear seat so it doesnt look so ugly.
So i went to go fill up the a/c today. installed the belt, lubed the idler pulley, checked the clutch and pulley on the compressor to see if it spun. I drained what was left in the system, and put it in vacuum and it held. Went to go fill it up and for some reason the freon wasnt feeding into the system.
Fussed with that for a bit, then i went in the car to check something and noticed the climate control was on face, and it was blowing out defog and feet. i messed with all the buttons, and it seems it wont go on face at all. I fixed the contacts on the climate control before and saw it moving. My guess is either the control is messed up again, or the motor isnt strong enough to lift the flap, which means the box would need to be replaced.
i went back outside and checked the freon and the compressor hadnt kicked on at all either. so now i have to do some relay and fuse testing and check to make sure the compressor actually works. Since the system wasnt kicking on im sure thats part of the reason why i wasnt getting any pressure in the system.
So its either i fix all this shit, or i say fuck it and boost, and rip all the a/c shit out. Id really prefer to get the a/c working as its my dd, and summer is only getting hotter. we’ll see how it goes, and if i can find the parts.
So i guess it would help if one turned on the a/c control. yes im an idiot, im not use to it being on the fan nob…
So the compressor works, and sounds pretty healthy for now. The condenser fan on the other hand is dead, so i need a new one, which im currently in the process of getting.
I also did some manual reading and I found the motor box for the air box controls, i examined it as i hit the switches, and it wasnt moving for the top, and top/bottom switches. So i pulled it out after fighting with the tiny little space i had, and im about to test it now and see if its shot.
Also my friend dropped off my wiper switch (cause i had left it in her car for a couple days now) and got it switched in, and i now have working wipers! Im going to try and find the one with intermittent switch, cause the one i have is for an EF 4 door, so i dont have the rear wiper switch (since it has been deleted).
Unfortunately, my multimeter decided to take a shit on me today, so i have to go pick up one of those too now.