i got same strut bar as u do but mine is chromed out im gonna paint em blue and do a blue suspension theme lol
well thanks to boosteddc on here now i am the proud owner of a jdm b16 head complete with manifold, throttle body, distributor, and all the good shit…
Noice!
u going lsvtec? im going to watch this thread its going to be fun
will either be ls vtec or b20 vtec, still cant make up my mind, but dont forget it will be sprayed too lol…oh yea
Just research which bottom end will hold more haha. Just should be fairly similar though I would think
the b20 has issues with the sleeves at higher powers, and its NOT cheap to get a good sleeved b20…so thats why i cant make up my mind, money really isnt the issue as availability and reliability are
whats ur hp goal?
it will be around 200whp then 50-75 shot of nitrous…i know the b20 dont like spray lol…
gonna be dropping off head at machine shop this week and also the valve cover and intake manifold for powder coat
B20 walls are thinner than the B18A1 and are single cast, or whatever the term is. They are one piece. It’s basically a bored out B18A1. Better off doing the B18A1 with Eagle rods. I’ve read that the rods are a good “just in case” buy for that power goal. MAYBE not necessary, but good piece of mind. Don’t take my word for it though, only something I’ve read.
oh i will have rods, most likely pistons, valves, springs retainers, all the little things to make it run safe lol
i’m pretty sure if he builds the bottom end of the B20 he’ll be good for the power he wants to go
Lol at people who have never added a power adder talking about how B20’s are shitty. Negative. If you have a shit tune the extra meaty walls of the b18 won;t save you. So many people here in CO running nitrous and turbo on basically stock B20’s with a good tune making ridiculous numbers. All of them lol’ing at people nitpicking the slightly smaller cylinder walls. Just make sure you tune it and you will be fine, you will make more power with the B20 for the larger bore and less valve shrouding.
Not a chance you are going to make 200whp without a power adder on that header and setup.
yea i will, stage 3 cams, fully built head, and 12:1 compression, im not a cheap ass im putting good money into this build…i will have atleast 200 on the motor and then the nitrous but anyways
well head is at machine shop, will be a week or so till i know if its good to go.
on a good note got my widedband today, this shit is awesome!!
The fault in the design of the B20 isn’t in cylinder thickness, it’s in cylinder design. They don’t handle high cylinder pressures well and are likely to crack where two cylinders meet.
Another thing that kills them is over-revving. Keep them at the stock redline, and as said, get a proper tune and you’ll be gravy.
no way im gonna be using stock b20 redline on a b20 vtec…thats why im leaning more towards the b18 now…and tuning will be done by myself
Well… either block you use, you should use the stock redline unless you’re upgrading the hardware in it.
B20 has picky sleeves… The LS uses the same rod-bolt as the SOHC motors whereas the B16/GSR/R all use a thicker/stronger rod bolt. Overrev the LS, end up with stretched rod-bolts and, subsequently, piston-to-valve contact.
They both have a low redline for a reason.
Now, upgrade the main bolts and rod-bolts, and you’ll be much safer revving higher.
Just because it’s a “B20 Vtec” doesnt mean it can rev to 9k… Or just because you drop in Jun cams, that your stock valve springs can take the added strain… Upgrading one area simply exposes the next weak link.
edit
The B20 shares the same SOHC rod bolt as well. Scary stuff.
well i guess people aren’t reading what im saying
i will be using arp rod bolts, and head studs, i will have upgraded valve springs, valves, retainers, guides, locks, and cams, will also have upgraded pistons and rods…there wont be barely anything stock in my motor other than the crank
[QUOTE=Deceptakhan;2279639]Lol at people who have never added a power adder talking about how B20’s are shitty. Negative. If you have a shit tune the extra meaty walls of the b18 won;t save you. So many people here in CO running nitrous and turbo on basically stock B20’s with a good tune making ridiculous numbers. All of them lol’ing at people nitpicking the slightly smaller cylinder walls. Just make sure you tune it and you will be fine, you will make more power with the B20 for the larger bore and less valve shrouding.
Not a chance you are going to make 200whp without a power adder on that header and setup.[/QUOTE]
Which is why I said don’t take my word for it, only something I’ve read.
[QUOTE=bryan24207;2279702]well i guess people aren’t reading what im saying[/QUOTE]We are reading… some of us are even taking notes… (chuckle).
:rockon: