My First DA

GENERAL General G2/G2IC Discussion
281

[QUOTE=512_SIR II;2300760]So I finally got so fed up with my tune I decided to buy a chip programmer from Moates.net and get rid of this tune. I pulled my rc 550’s off today, I’m gonna go up to honda tomorrow and get all new o rings and seals for the injectors so I can put my stock 240cc back in. Once I do that I’m gonna drain the remaining e85 from the tank and go back to running 93 =[ . I don’t really wanna do that, but at this point I just want the car to drive like stock again and not have all it’s issues. (Ex. Stalls out every time I put it in neutral, running really rich) Hopefully it will run like normal once I do this, if not…It’s just gonna be sitting until the turbo set up is ready and I have an s300 in my hands to properly tune it.

Anyone who knows me and my car personally knows how jacked up this tune is and how excited I’ll be if I can get it to run properly again lol[/QUOTE]
Sucks to hear about your problems, but S300 is definitely the way to go! :up:

282

Oh yea man for sure. I never replied to this oops. I got my car back up and running great again. I ended up putting the stock injectors back in and tuned it myself on 93. It’s running great, but I miss the smell of e85 sooo bad!!! lol It’ll go back on it once the turbo set up is ready.

Anyone wanna buy a set of rc 550cc injectors? I need to go bigger

Got my new pet snail today!!! It’s name is Gary >=] It’s a Garrett t3 50 trim .63 ar hotside with agp housings. I can’t wait to get this thing on my car! =] I love it

283

Gettin there buddy!

284

Yes sir =]

I’m gonna wait till it gets a bit cooler and less humid before I start putting it all on the car. Hopefully that will happen sometime towards the middle of October, but this is Texas so not holding my breath on that lol. I’m trying to get some quotes on how much it’s gonna cost to get some of the stuff coated. I want to get my manifold, and the turbine housing done in ceramic black. I want to get the compressor housing powder coated silver as well. Once I finish making all the ic piping I need to get that all welded up and then buy some titanium wrap to wrap it all in. I think this will all look pretty sick when it’s done, but I’m very anal and picky about how things look in my engine bay so I’m gonna take my time and get it all done right.

I’ll take some more photos when I get everything test fitted in the car. I can’t wait! =]

285

These are the last shots of it as an n/a car. It’s been a fun n/a car…slow, but fun. I’m gonna start putting the turbo stuff on now and it’s gonna sit until it’s all complete =[ I’m excited for what it’s gonna be in the end, but i’m sad it’s just gonna sit for a couple months. I hate when I’m not able to drive my cars. I figure though if I do this it keeps anything bad from happening to it (knock on wood). If it’s sitting I know it’s safe and healthy.

286

[QUOTE=512_SIR II;2186540]Installed the asr brace yesterday. It was kinda hard to get it on since my car is so low and the way the rsr exhaust hangs it got in the way but it was well worth it. I can tell when I take hard turns the back end doesnt feel as sloppy when coming out of the corner. The steering also feels alittle stiffer going through the turn which I like (might be imagining that though). Now I just need the bigger sway bar to go with it and im set.
Horrible pictures, and yes the underside of my car is really dirty


[/QUOTE]

i just seen this pic, sorry for the late comment. Because you have the ASR subframe now, you have alot of options when it comes to sway bars. Try to go with the 24mm asr sway bar if you want to keep your front sway bar. If you have 32mm rear sway bar with the stock sway bar in the front, you will tend to fish tail alot on corners, especially on high speed turns. My personal preference would be 24mm rear sway bar with the stock front sway bar with energy suspension bushings. (keep in mind that bushings play a big roll especially you’re trailing arm bushings. This is you’re car and good luck with build.

287

Thanks for the info man, but I sold this thing a looong time ago. I think back in 2011. I was gonna get sway bars for it, but ended up having some stuff come up so I had to sell it for the money. Now I have no interest in getting another one. All my money is going towards the boost stuff

288

I haven’t posted in this thread in over a month. I’ve been busy working on getting the turbo parts on, but have been posting everything in build thread that’s in the turbo section. Anyway, I just wanted to post in this to keep it going. I finally replaced my front brake pads today. I haven’t replaced them since I first bought the car back in March of 2010. I like the low maintenance of only driving a car on the weekends lol. I’ll post some more stuff in here once things happen. Everything is just slow right now since it’s up on jack stands while the turbo set up is getting done

289

So a sad, disappointing, depressing, set back of a day for me and my integra. I decided to drain my oil and pull my pan for the hell of it. Had no real reason to other than my friend and I were bored. Well I drained the oil and everything looked fine. I ran a magnet through it and there weren’t any metal shavings or flakes at all. I then went ahead and pulled the pan off. I then brought it out in the sun to see if there were any copper bearing flakes in it. After a few minutes of examining I found zero copper flakes in the pan at all. I was really happy at this point knowing my bearing were good. I then dumped out what was left in the pan and that’s when I noticed something was wrong. I found some thick dark gray slug on the bottom of the pan. I rubbed my finger on it and on my finger it looked more grayish brown and my first thought was “oooooh shit”. I grabbed a flashlight, got underneath my car and saw something that maybe my heart sink. I saw on that baffle thing that bolts to the bottom of the crank…bright green drops. I got that thing off the car and then I saw my rod bolts had milky white/brown oil on them. I looked up at into the cylinder walls and on the bottom side of cylinder #2 and #3 and I saw green drops hanging. I knew at that moment I had a major problem and that the head gasket was more than likely blown =[ Anyway enough talking, here are some photos of exactly what I saw

Bottom side of crank and rod bolts

This is the bottom side of cylinder #2

Topside of the baffle pan or whatever it is that covers the bottom side of the crank

I talked to a friend who has been building cars longer than I’ve been alive and he told me it could be a crack in one of the cylinder walls. That scared me. He then told me to set each cylinder to tdc, pressurize my coolant system and get under the car to check for new drips or leaks. I did this didn’t see any drips form or any leaks. The coolant system held steady pressure at 15 psi (which is what we set it to). This told him that there wasn’t a crank in the cylinder walls and that it was a head gasket leak. He also mentioned it could be that the head studs stretched and that allowed the head gasket to leak slightly.

The car has been down for a month or so while I’ve been putting the turbo stuff on. Before I put it down it ran great. I never had any issues with how it ran. It never smoked. I never had to add coolant to it. So my guess is this issue came up recently cause of that, and that the oil looked alright until I looked deep into the pan itself. The coolant also doesn’t seem to have oil in it. Not that I can tell at least. I have yet to drain that.

Long story I know, but I had to tell it. I’ve pulled my motor before, but I’ve never had this issue and I’ve never had to pull a head off a motor. This is gonna be a learning experience for me I guess. I’m glad I caught this before everything was done. It would of gotten way worse when boosted. I’m gonna find out what head gasket to get, arp head studs, and get the head decked since I’ve been told that has to be done when doing a head gasket. I’m broke as fuck, but if I can I’ll get the head port and polished as well.

I’ll post updates as things happen…ugh I’m bummed

290

[QUOTE=512_SIR II;2305133]So a sad, disappointing, depressing, set back of a day for me and my integra. I decided to drain my oil and pull my pan for the hell of it. Had no real reason to other than my friend and I were bored. Well I drained the oil and everything looked fine. I ran a magnet through it and there weren’t any metal shavings or flakes at all. I then went ahead and pulled the pan off. I then brought it out in the sun to see if there were any copper bearing flakes in it. After a few minutes of examining I found zero copper flakes in the pan at all. I was really happy at this point knowing my bearing were good. I then dumped out what was left in the pan and that’s when I noticed something was wrong. I found some thick dark gray slug on the bottom of the pan. I rubbed my finger on it and on my finger it looked more grayish brown and my first thought was “oooooh shit”. I grabbed a flashlight, got underneath my car and saw something that maybe my heart sink. I saw on that baffle thing that bolts to the bottom of the crank…bright green drops. I got that thing off the car and then I saw my rod bolts had milky white/brown oil on them. I looked up at into the cylinder walls and on the bottom side of cylinder #2 and #3 and I saw green drops hanging. I knew at that moment I had a major problem and that the head gasket was more than likely blown =[ Anyway enough talking, here are some photos of exactly what I saw

Bottom side of crank and rod bolts

This is the bottom side of cylinder #2

Topside of the baffle pan or whatever it is that covers the bottom side of the crank

I talked to a friend who has been building cars longer than I’ve been alive and he told me it could be a crack in one of the cylinder walls. That scared me. He then told me to set each cylinder to tdc, pressurize my coolant system and get under the car to check for new drips or leaks. I did this didn’t see any drips form or any leaks. The coolant system held steady pressure at 15 psi (which is what we set it to). This told him that there wasn’t a crank in the cylinder walls and that it was a head gasket leak. He also mentioned it could be that the head studs stretched and that allowed the head gasket to leak slightly.

The car has been down for a month or so while I’ve been putting the turbo stuff on. Before I put it down it ran great. I never had any issues with how it ran. It never smoked. I never had to add coolant to it. So my guess is this issue came up recently cause of that, and that the oil looked alright until I looked deep into the pan itself. The coolant also doesn’t seem to have oil in it. Not that I can tell at least. I have yet to drain that.

Long story I know, but I had to tell it. I’ve pulled my motor before, but I’ve never had this issue and I’ve never had to pull a head off a motor. This is gonna be a learning experience for me I guess. I’m glad I caught this before everything was done. It would of gotten way worse when boosted. I’m gonna find out what head gasket to get, arp head studs, and get the head decked since I’ve been told that has to be done when doing a head gasket. I’m broke as fuck, but if I can I’ll get the head port and polished as well.

I’ll post updates as things happen…ugh I’m bummed[/QUOTE]

Sorry to hear man but don’t stress too much. Head gaskets are very easy. If you want to keep it simple then you could leave the block in the car and simply pull the head, get it milled ( I think .005 is the standard resurfacing) and put it back on. The only issue I see is some possible scope creep (well X is out/apart so I might as well add X to the build). To answer some of your questions about the process:

You should probably add valve seals while the head is at the machine shop. The term “decked” refers to removing material from the block to bump up the compression, you just need the head milled. The best HG to use in your case would be the OEM Honda HG, I think they are around $50. You may want to get ARP rod bolts in addition to the Head Studs if you don’t do do anything to the pistons/rods. It’s up to you if you want to start replacing rods and bearings. Also make sure you do a compression check and leak down on the motor so you know the true state of health. You are lucky you caught this now and not something catastrophic on the dyno. Did the car ever overheat? Just wondering because Honda HG are not really that prone to failure. I am also curious of how that much coolant got into the combustion chamber without you seeing a ton of white smoke and if it did any damage to the piston walls or rings.

291

I replied on your FB post as well, but like I said, I’d really suggest taking the block apart and cleaning it. If one of those bearings gets coolant on it, it’s likely to spin in the near future. Pump, squirters, all oil galleys etc, you’re going to have risidual coolant throughout the motor… I’d be scared to run it as is.

We used to clean two strokes out with gasoline and that worked versus a teardown… But antifreeze and oil is some nasty stuff.

Good luck though, that’s a bad find all around.

292

I can attest to this. I recently swapped out my B18A1 for a B20B because the B18 had a blown head gasket and then started to pee coolant from the water pump. Couple days ago I opened up the B18 and This is what I found. Aside from the block being super dirty, that is a picture of the bolt to drain the block of coolant (I don’t know the technical name for it). As you can see oil was mixing it with the coolant and crystalizing in the block, causing a block, and therefore causing it to leak from the water pump itself.

Sorry I don’t mean to thread jack. Just supporting unifieds112’s statement that if not taken care of soon it will do more and more damage.

[QUOTE=unified112;2305144]I replied on your FB post as well, but like I said, I’d really suggest taking the block apart and cleaning it. If one of those bearings gets coolant on it, it’s likely to spin in the near future. Pump, squirters, all oil galleys etc, you’re going to have risidual coolant throughout the motor… I’d be scared to run it as is.

We used to clean two strokes out with gasoline and that worked versus a teardown… But antifreeze and oil is some nasty stuff.

Good luck though, that’s a bad find all around.[/QUOTE]

293

Yeah, I definitely agree with tearing it apart at a bare minimum to clean it up since you don’t know how long this has been going on. You want this motor to last a long time while boosted. Unfortunately, I just think that with everything apart you should get the cylinders checked by the machine shop which will probably put you in the direction to get it honed, (hopefully not re bored) and it would be silly not to replace the rod bearings etc with it all apart as well which would require you to also have the shop check the crank (he may want to turn it).

Basically what it comes down to is IMO and experience if you have to take it apart, get it re bored, get new forged rods and pistons, acl bearings etc…I’ve been in this position myself and it didn’t make sense not to put new/superior parts back on. Why spend all that money on the turbo setup/tuning, head, new bearings, bolts etc to run low boost on a rebuilt motor. Wish I lived in your area, I would be more than happy to help you take on this process.

294

[QUOTE=jdecks23;2305143]Sorry to hear man but don’t stress too much. Head gaskets are very easy. If you want to keep it simple then you could leave the block in the car and simply pull the head, get it milled ( I think .005 is the standard resurfacing) and put it back on. The only issue I see is some possible scope creep (well X is out/apart so I might as well add X to the build). To answer some of your questions about the process:

You should probably add valve seals while the head is at the machine shop. The term “decked” refers to removing material from the block to bump up the compression, you just need the head milled. The best HG to use in your case would be the OEM Honda HG, I think they are around $50. You may want to get ARP rod bolts in addition to the Head Studs if you don’t do do anything to the pistons/rods. It’s up to you if you want to start replacing rods and bearings. Also make sure you do a compression check and leak down on the motor so you know the true state of health. You are lucky you caught this now and not something catastrophic on the dyno. Did the car ever overheat? Just wondering because Honda HG are not really that prone to failure. I am also curious of how that much coolant got into the combustion chamber without you seeing a ton of white smoke and if it did any damage to the piston walls or rings.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info. I plan on putting arp head studs in for sure. That’s something that I feel is just an easy and smart idea. If I can afford to get new valve seals put in then I will. It all comes down to money which I don’t have a lot of. Now people will always say “why even boost a car, or try to build a car if you don’t have the money for it”. My answer to that. Because not everyone has a lot of money and I get what I can when I can and I make do. The only reason I have most of my turbo stuff is I put my friends evo together and he bought me parts. I’m a broke ass guy lol. But yes I’m glad I caught this when I did. I would like to deck the head as little as possible and leave the compression as close to stock as I can. I did a compression test 2 or 3 weeks ago and had solid numbers across the board. It was 170,150,170,160 (seems low cause the gauge is from the 80’s. It’s read low on every car I’ve used it on). The numbers were all close to each other and that’s what I was looking for. And no, the car never overheated, never smoked, never lost coolant, never showed any signs of a problem. Even the oil I drained out of the pan looked perfect. Just a slight dark brown color. No milky appearance at all. I’m gonna drain the coolant out here in a bit and see how much oil mix into that and then this coming sunday if the weather holds out I’ll pull the head. I’ll inspect the walls and I hope to god it’s not a crack somewhere, but I wont know until the head is off.

As for the responses about ripping my motor apart. I appreciate the advise, the concern, and I’ll say that I’ve noted it but have no intention to tear the motor apart. The compression has never been bad, there have never been and bearing shavings or flakes or any metal shavings in my oil, the inside of the motor looks really clean, and there really wasn’t that much coolant in the crank case. I’m simply gonna deck the head, arp head studs, and a new head gasket. I’ll clean out the motor as best as I can and move on from that point. I’ve been around cars with way worse head gasket failures than this and their motors are still running strong years later without having to rebuild. Now if I had the money to rebuild it with forged this and that then sure, I’d do it. That’s not an option for me unless I want my car to be down for a long long time…which I do not. Like I said, I appreciate the thoughts and concerns but for right now with the way things are for me, it’s not financially viable to go into a full on or semi bottom end rebuild. I will do what I can afford to do to fix the problem at hand and get the head checked and fixed as needed. I’ll post updates as things happen. Thanks again everyone

295

So I drained the coolant out of the radiator, removed the front block drain plug, and drained the coolant from around the cylinders as well. This is how it looks

…Perfectly green. No sign of any oil in the coolant at all. Only thing that is in there is dirt and dead bugs that were in the bucket prior to me putting coolant in it. This I find interesting…

296

So today I set up a table in my garage to set the head, cams and all the other nuts and bolts that have to come out on. I also went ahead and unhooked everything that was attached to the head other than the timing belt. I’m waiting to do that until I get the crank pulley tool. I also labeled everything this time and put all the nuts and bolts in labeled bags. When I pulled the motor out in 2011 I didn’t label anything and just threw all the bolts into one big bucket. I will never make that mistake again.

297

good thing you are mechanically incline. keep at it brother, hoping the best will turn out for you.

298

Well this is new to me. I’ve never pulled a head of a motor before, but I know how to do enough that this should be pretty straight forward. Thanks, I’m hoping for the best as well. I’ll post back on Sunday with pictures of what I find when the head actually comes off

299

Gl man, hopefully its just the head gasket. pulling the head is a very strait foward process. something like that should be easy with your wrenching status :smiley:

300

Thanks. I’m hoping so. And yeah, it’s been pretty simple. No snags or issues yet (knock on wood).

Everything is off and out ready to pull the head off tomorrow. We got one hell of a cold front the other day dropping us down into the 30’s (that’s low for central Texas) so I’m glad my car is in the garage. At least it’s not too bad in there.

Here are the pictures of what I did to it today

Keeping everything organized

All nuts and bolts put into labeled bags so I don’t misplace or lose anything

So I had never held a cam before, heavier than I expected it to be. Head is coming off tomorrow and I will learn the fate of my motor…nervous, but excited to just find out all ready