I can get you new 450s/550s for $199 new.
and hook it up with a obd-1 b16a turbo basemap? :naughty:
this was on a stock LS but, the b16a will prob need more fuel than a LS when revved past 7.5k.
Sure…
picked up hondata s200 w/ boost… running b16a w/ turbo basemap…
we’ll see how this goes…
obd-o to obd-1 conversion & hondata install… damn ima be tired for the meet tomorrow…
so i take it the motor isnt blown? saw the post in GD and you didnt seem very optimistic about it
yea, not blown… :rockon:
and im really planning on keeping it like that… hahhaha
huumm… 4:13am - september 15th, thursday.
here’s my full setup…
jdm b16a (first gen, internals, head, block, intake manifold, injectors, fuel pump, completely stock)
T3 log style tube manifold w/ external wastegate
T3 from a ford thunderbird coupe auto
external deltagate mark II wastegate w/ 6 lb spring
misc. 2" to 2.25" chargepiping
air filter directly on turbo
downpipe is a flexpipe from kragen, which is aimed towards the ground between the tranny & the frame. open downpipe
hondata s200 w/ boost & datalogging
converted to obd-1
re-pinned a '93 integra LS distributor to have cream plugs & directly plug in
help me find out what is wrong now…
car ran for a little while with the whole turbo setup on, w/ the hondata all on…
converted to obd-1 & installed the hondata actually
currently as it sits - no o2 sensor, no knock sensor (but it’s disabled on the hondata anyways) no vtec oil pressure switch, no vtec solenoid…
it ran well for several minutes, recording a few idling datalogs… then when i tried to rev it up a little bit, it kinda tries to bog/loose power at 1500rpm, then i’d let the rpm drop a little bit, then would give it more gas at once, so it would shoot past it, then it would be all fine…
then from then, i was going to test drive it… so i brought it to the street, then once i tried to engage to take off, it bogged, bogged, bogged… then rev’ed it up, then it went…
after a while, i got down the street, then all the power of the car started dimming, then started going dead… the radiator fan drained power, headlights turned like a red’ish color, then i lost all power… barely turned around from a main street near my neighborhood.
before leaving though, i brought with me a jumper pack… jumped it, started up right away… unplugged it, ran a little bit, then bogged, bogged, bogged, then stumble, then i kept the rpm’s up. after that, i just tried really hard to bring it home… (uphill, then more uphill of my driveway, then into the garage)
it basically died at the top cause 1. it’s hard to drive with no backpressure, 2. loosing power throughout the whole system, 3. it was just hard to drive in general…
after getting it in, i added a new 4 gauge ground, instead of the two 8 gauge grounds… attached the 4 gauge to the firewall, onto one end of the 8 gauge ground. then it started up right away… (battery is a NGK DRY cell battery, the tiny ones)
now, it starts, but runs for a second, then dies… and keeps doing that as long as i dont hit the gas. once i do, it revs up, still does the 1500rpm thing, but once i let it idle down, it dies out.
the spark plugs were brand new. NGK V-power -1 step colder. maybe used for 5 minutes or so, idling, revving up not past 4… but with no fuel management… but it ran fine then… but would going from this setup, to the hondata setup change anything? am i suppost to now run stock plugs? or still colder plugs? i pulled them out, and they’re completely black… like my old plugs which did the same thing. after i installed new plugs though, it ran perfectly fine again. but i bet the same thing will happen.
would going from no management, to the hondata setup foul them out that fast?
these problems never happened before i installed the turbo again, what’s going on? am i missing something here?
btw - after my car died down from running for a bit, the turbo, i swear was spinning for maybe 15 - 20 seconds after the motor was turned off. i could hear the whistling of the turbo spinning… why was it doing that also?
i checked my timing before i drove it down tonite, it was fine @ stock (16deg. btdc), fuel is staying at 36psi @ idle, no check valves, no fmu… can anyone think of anything that would be wrong with it? am i now suppost to run stock plugs?
it basically died at the top cause 1. it’s hard to drive with no backpressure
Lack of “backpressure” would not make the car hard to drive. I’ve been driving mine for a month now with an open downpipe. And maybe I’ll start a thread sometime about the whole “backpressure” myth and how the term is misused and misunderstood. 
As far as your plugs, what do you have them gapped at? I had mine at stock gap for a testdrive or two and it misfired ALOT.
when you buy a hondata it needs to be re-tunnned, if it isn’t the car will run like SHIT!!! every tune is different. sounds like your going VERY VERY lean in the vacume portion of the fuel map. Possibly lean throught the map. KABOOOOOM! 
(sarcasticly) Also with the plugs, don’t go buy what the counter person says. 9 outa 10 times, they don’t know shit. NGK bkr7e-11
i know… i dont listen to them…
i gapped mine at .028
the s200 has a b16a turbo basemap on it
well, there is a difference with open downpipe, vs full exhaust w/ cat. i too ran open downpipe for a while, about near 2 months to be exact… :shrug: i think backpressure is a cause of my car being hard to drive up my hill…
oh yea, my other reason it maybe struggling too is im running a LS tranny on the b16a…
with all that dimming and power cutting off sounds like the battery is dead or the alternator is fading on you
the battery was a brand new NGK dry cell, it should be good, it’s been good for 2 weeks…
alternator, maybe… i made a 4 gauge ground, from batt. to chassis, and from that point, made it go to other points on the motor/chassis.
i found out that the firewall, at first, the paint was still there, so i scraped it off, and it’s kool now…
if anything else comes up, u guys know i’ll be bi’chin about it…
I still don’t understand why backpressure would cause you problems going up hills…
The reason that most people think backpressure is necessary for power is because they have the wrong conception of what is really happening. Backpressure is never good in any case. The reason why engines have less low end torque and power with bigger diameter (or open) exhausts is because of an entirely different reason.
That has to do with the smaller diameter exhaust tube creating suction out of it, rather than the engine having to force the exhaust out.
kev, change those plugs out asap. the v-power plugs non-resistor spark plugs and they interfere with the hondata electronics. something about radio frequency. try to get integral resistor spark plugs…just the stock ones but a step colder.
xenocron, ygm.
the v powers are stock plugs for it…
not sure about v-power bring stock but on a turbo application the gap should be just a bit smaller than it would stock.
it says these plugs are resistor type…
part number BCPR6E-11
turbo kit is off, im selling everything now…
why you selling everything?
turbo’s just not for me…
3 strikes and im out, and this is the 3rd turbo motor… i know it’s all pretty much negligence, but it’s the 3rd strike, and i said i’d giveup on turbo if i get there…