my new ITR shiftage

ASSISTANCE Interior
61

Post some pix… I want to see the final look! Maybe my shifter is sitting a lil far back and I don’t even know it. Post them up… Thanks

Jo

62

Yeah some pics please. I just picked up some jdm itr linkage. Not to decide if I wanna use my B&M Pro Edge shifter or buy an itr one.

63

here ya go


The stock stabilizer bar with ITR linkage seats your shifter exactly in the right spot with minimal play.

My shifter is just from a DC GSR teg and its the exact same thing as an ITR shifter except its not gold zinc plated or whatever. I found this out from some posts Preston made a while back :slight_smile: . Before this upgrade I was running stock shift linkage with a B&M edge shifter and ES bushings. I Hated it, couldn’t use my heat shield, and the ES bushings did not clear up any of the play.

Moral of the story: save yourself some time and money by buying a quality ITR shift linkage and an oem dual bend shifter in the first place to get the solid shift feeling you are looking for.:manual:

64

Nice! Now I gotta post up my pix of the finishing look. I’ll see what I can do. Remember i’m running a ITR full Shift Linkage w/ITR stablizer bar, ES bushings, and ITR Shifter. Feels nice! I’m loving that OEM feel. Filled the tranny fluid w/some Synchromesh, and everythings good. IMHO take this mod into consideration, Mos Def… Just my 0.02…

Jo

65

Hey, this is how mine is sitting… I really don’t have a problem with it… I’m just curious to know if it’s going to effect anything in the long run? Should I check for some next time I’m under there? Let me know dudes…

TIA,
Jo

66

nice car JO. where did you get all the ITR stuff( linkage, stabilizer, shifter) and how much?

thanks,
Reg

67

I found my ITR Shift Linkage w/ITR Shifter, and Stabilizer bar off of some dude that was selling a setup on Craigslist for $120. My ES Bushings off of Ebay for $17. My Skunk 2 Shift Knob off of some shop I found via Ebay… (Rythum Motorsports) $50. Shift boot off of JDM Robot $40. All in all, I think this setup is the BEST… I’ve driven my car for a while with those JDM Short Shifter’s and I busted 4 Transmissions because of them. I’m threw messing with the fake immatation stuff. If I’m gonna spend money on my car it’s gonna be alot and it’s gonna be worth it. That’s what I’ve come too. So to finish answering your Question, this setup cost me around $230.00… Well worth it!!! A must for you tranny breakers…

Hope this helps with your future plans…

Jo

68

^ thanks

69

So is that picture of your shifter in neutral? how can i do this and keep the stock location without binding issues?

70

In my 2 Da’s i ran B&M shifters with a skunk2 knobs and with my current da i have polygraphite bushings for my linkage. Ive driven ITR’s and i dont see how it any better?? they are all a bit sloppy till you put a short shifter in! what does the ability to still retain your heatshield really matter in the winter its better not to have a heat shield there your knob will warm up faster!!( for those of us who live in colder climates!!)

71

thx for info
mmtegra

i used a complete gsr linkage today
and i get the dam screethed boot

no wonder when i was bolting the shifterbushings underthe car i had to move the bushing hella close to the part where it goes round

swaping back the stock one tomaro!

72

I was thinking about putting that knob in my CRX. I have the bent B&M short throw in there, looks the same :stuck_out_tongue: but no boot probs!

73

i just put in a dc2 ls shifter and linkage and its way nicer than the stock da parts. the dc2 is much beefier and i took out the shifter to clean everything up and its already a shorter throw than the stock da shifter by about .50". all dc2 linkages are the same except for the itr being zinc coated, then their are ls shifters and then the gsr and itr which are factory short throw and the itr is also zinc coated so in my opinion find any dc2 linkage and rock it stock or throw in a gsr or itr shifter. feels sooo much better than the stock da and i read if you use the stock da stabilizer bar it will put the shifter in a nice spot but i used the whole dc2 linkage and my shifter is sitting back real far but i like it.

74

can the ITR stabilizer be used?

75

ok i have a question im sorry im not kidding when i say this i have bad add when it comes to reading… i read all 4 pages but w/e

I just put a DC2 shift linkage assembly in my DA i want to know if its going to sit back to fat and if it is than is there a bad side effect to it…

and for it not to have the problem what can i do to fix just change to the DA stabilizer rod???

Thanks for the patience :slight_smile:

76

[QUOTE=4sd4dr;1475640]
So, if you plan to do this swap you will need

  • #2 (lever - [B]54101-ST7-Z00 [/B]x1 @ 53.75),
  • #4 (plastic bushing - [B]54105-692-010 [/B]x2 @ 2.59),
  • #5 (plastic sleeve - [B]54107-SA0-010 [/B]x2 @ 3.29),
  • #12 (joint collar - [B]54117-SD4-000 [/B]x1 @ 8.67),
  • #24 (o-ring - [B]91303-HA0-004 [/B]x4 @ 0.83),
  • #14 (change rod/extension rod, shift rod - [B]54301-SR3-G00[/B] x1 @ 76.64)
[/QUOTE]

Just bought this for $164 from acuraoemparts.com
For the most part seems to work but ran into 2 show-stoppers on my 90 da:

[LIST=2]

  • the end of the gearshift rod is different for the new shifter than the one I kept on the da. It's wider because the end of the "change lever" is wider. This means the existing bolt is too short too (old was 50mm new supposed to be 60).
  • when I installed the change lever with the bend pointing towards the back of the car like in the diagram it sits waaay back like in a photo somebody posted earlier (can't find it now I searched :crazy:). Soo.. I installed it the other way around and it seems to sit similar to stock and shifts fine hope it's right :giggle: [/LIST]

    yeah shifts seem shorter maybe half as much as before and the knob is a little lower. The overhaul zapped some of the slop it used to have. But I had to do a ghetto bending job with a crescent wrench, a mini-sledge, and a brick to make the end of the DA’s gearshift rod wide enough to fit the bottom of the change lever. And locktited the threads on the bolt that was too short for locknut to lock so I will be buying part #25 in the picture soon. And spring pin #28.

    The parts in the list above are marked black and small parts in blue box. May want to buy ITR gearshift rod #13 ( 54201-ST7-R00 ) to forego ghetto bend job, I’m buying bolt #25 ( 92201-08060-0H ) instead before the locktite wears off :shock:

    • 77

    Just installed the bolt today. Ahh,… don’t have to worry about my shift rod falling off. But shifting isn’t too smooth. I know my tranny isn’t in prime condition but think the shift rod itself might have something to do with it. Prolly not made to work with the new parts. Also that 19 year-old shift rod has a u-joint on the end of it that seems to have some fatty slop.

    78

    Isn’t the sloppy u-joint one the main reasons to using the newer DC linkage? I would replace that linkage if I were you, midas (:angel:) well finish it off

    79

    yeah I think you’re right about that u-joint. I just ordered the shift rod too. Also about the shifting now, it’s actually not as bad as I thought. When I installed the new bolt, I made sure not to torque it down too much like other ppl said on this post, before with the short bolt I torqued it down too much cuz I was worried it would fall off. Most gears are fairly smooth now except for 1st, but that’s always been the worst. Then I have the synchromesh trick going too… Seems like that kinda helped, especially with 5th. even though I guess now my tranny and it’s seals are a guinea pig over the long term :cross:

    80

    bump…great thread. answered all my questions and pointed me in the right direction