Whats up yal, Im new to g2ic, and today I bought a 1990 integra RS for $500 the owners said the car needed a main fuel pump relay, so I got one from the salvage yard. I installed it at the time of purchase. The car didnt start right away. the owners said the car has been parked for a year. So after like 7 more times tryin to start the car it fires up I let it idle for like 10 mins while she goes and fetches the title. I drive for 20 miles and the car dies. THe tach just dropped and it wouldnt start back up. Now this is a hatch back and I got the main relay out of a 4 door, but the car started after like 10 tries of turning the key i got 10 more mile 4 from home and it died again and I got it towed the rest of the way. The relay I got out out the junk car had the same words on it but it was brown the original one in the car was black could this be my problem or whats. Oh and the car sprung a coolant leak but the hose wasnt completely rupsured (if thats how you spell it) so I cut it and reinstalled it. 10 mins have gone by the car starts up and it seems to be idleing a lot low like at 900rpm at first it was like 1100 even after it bogged down what do you think the problem is thanx. Ive search every “My Car Died Forum” Thanx
get a new main fuel relay.
getting them from a junkyard isnt a good idea.
your idle is too high. it should be around 750 rpms.
dAMN you joined yesterday and you said you already searched the mods would love . but this seem as it has prolly benn covered.
when you try to restart do you hear the fuel pump energize.the lil buzzing when you turn the key onto the on position. if you hear it check for spark check out the distrubitor. if not replace the main relay.
keep us updated
Also search on how to test your coil, and ignitor in the distributor. You will need a multimeter to take some readings. In some cases, when these are going bad, they will die once the car gets warmed up. And ditto on the new relay. Using the junkyard for electrical parts is hit or miss.
if this car has been sitting parked for a year. you need to do an entire tune up on this car
sparks and wires
oil/filter
coolant flush
get rid of whatever was in the gas tank and refill
injector cleaner
Replace the fuel filter it is likely clogged with debris. When the car sits for 10 minutes the fuel pressure is reduced and the debris un compact in the filter and allow fuel to flow through the filter again temporarily. If you can’t replace it immediately try removing it and bang the inlet end on a hard surface to see if anything comes out of the filter.
^^^exactamundo
i think DB2-R81 is right
peep this. I started the car when i bought it. It took several attemps but when she started running she was running. Now I drove thirty miles and it cut off. I tampered with the main relay for about ten mins. finally jumped back in the car it started right up. Then 10 miles later she died and i killed the battery tryin to start the car in traffic. so i got it towed. I took the battery out, put in it my accord (cb7tuner) while it was running drove around until it charged. The next day around six pm i reinstalled the battery the car started right up. it sounds like DB2-R81 is right about the fuel filter, Im about to go check it today. Is there anything else it could be if it were the distributor would the car have these symptoms. and also last night i reinstalled the old main relay and it clicks and the car runs with so I dont think the relay was the problem. I emailed someone i cant remember his name about he had a similar problem with the main relay and he resolder something what did he resolder. Thanx family
take of the distubitor cap check the carp and rotor also my best guess would have to be its you igniton coil because you say it runs for a while then shuts of right?. well when the coil heats up the internal coil prolly seperates but when you let it sit it cools down and the coils contact again. long story short it you coil more than like if you have ob0 i have 1 brand new for sale.
in the store its about 90 dollars. i have it 4 cheap new! next time it won’t start check to see if you have spark. to check just pull the spark plug off the motor and have some 1 crank the motor. if it no spark check you ignitor and igniton coil lmk
Hello Tony,
Be very careful checking for spark this way, if the resistance is to high for the spark to jump to a ground between the plug wire and a conductor i.e. gap to big you will almost immediately over heat the coil and igniter destroying one or the other. The charge has to go somewhere and if the gap is to large at the wire, the spark or charge will seek the path of least resistance, likely in side the coil. The week coil insulation between it’s windings and the heat build up in our internally located coils are notoriously suspect to damage and total loss. To check for spark you are better advised to pull the plug, attach the wire and lay booth on the top of your valve cover where there is a local ground.
better way to explaint it ^^
Not to rob this thread, but my moms altima has been doing this for two years now, it will run for about 20 mins then it will start to putter like the timing is absolutly fuked, and then it will shut off, it wont start for about 20 mins than it will do it all the samed again, weve replaced the mfr, fuel pump, injectors, plugs, wires and it did it still, then we replaced the cap and rotor to see if that was the problem and it still did it, then the distributor in itself, but it still did it, idt we replaced the ignitor and coil, but it seemed everything we did didnt work.
anyone have a solution to 1991accludes problems? because it sounds like the same thing is happening to his teg thats happening to y moms altima.
In extreme cases, you might want to start looking into the ECU being the problem. My mom’s got an '84 BMW that had this wierd hesitation/stalling problem. Almost acted like a rev limiter, but it would do it at any RPM it felt like… 2k, 3k, 4k, didn’t matter, just totally random. I changed the fuel pressure regulator, the main fuel pump and the transfer pump (it has two fuel pumps, one to pressurize the system, one to draw fuel from the tank to the main pump), air flow meter, fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, wires. Took it to three or four different mechanics, all of them did something each time that “fixed” it… yeah right, still was doing it each time. Finally took it to a BMW dealer, but they didn’t have anyone trained on BMWs that old, so they sent me to a guy a few miles down the road that “specialized” in E30 Bimmers. He had it for 10 minutes and figured out it was the ECU, he swapped in one from an '85 BMW and fixed it. It’s been running ok since then.
did that happen when the car was heated up or whenevr it wanted? cuz both our problems happen when the cars heated up. and i dont think the ecu gets hot.
The car was never overheating. I don’t know about the ECU, it was replaced after i moved to AK and my mom’s in Cali, so i never saw that part.
no. no. no. no. no. Im not sayin or asking if it was overheating, Im asking did the problems with you moms bmer happen after motor was warm? it did it happen anytime? when the motor was cold.
Oh, right, gotcha. Uh… yeah, it was more prone to do it once it was warmed up. It does use a single wire O2 sensor, so maybe it had something to do with it running closed loop vs open loop that the ECU couldn’t handle anymore. Honestly, i don’t know. I just know that i lost track of everything i did to before she started sending it to mechanics. :lol:
my car started today
my car runs again but Im sure it will die I ran my friends 93 accord coupe with I/H/E beat him twice out of three races and my car is bone stock and it didnt die. Is there anything in the distributor that works when it wants too. Or does it just sound like a part inside of it is going bad. I know someone with a distributor. When my car dies I want to put his distributor on and see if it starts if it does Im sure this is the problem but isnt there a way to install a distributor, how do you put it in time. Thanx
it was my distributor
fixed my car scored a distributor for $40. Now I have another problem. I let the car run for like 45 mins while I went to denny’s can back and there was white smoke cooming from under the hood and kinda from the exhaust. I look at the temp gauge and it was at Hot. I the car was running fine. I turned off the car and spotted a leaking coolant hose and refilled the coolant. the car cool down in like 5 mins flat back to cold Im going to replace the thermostat today any other suggestion. Not to rob my own post
my db1 dont like coolant at all, it will overheat with anything over 1 part coolant/3 parts water and it stays kinda hot with that so i just run water and its fine,but as far as your car goes the thermo,and that hose that has a leak and u should be fine