My turbo build, lookiing for insight

ASSISTANCE Forced Induction
1

Block B18A1 - bored, magnaflushed and inspected
Stock Crank- Machined, polished, new bearings
New oil pump
New water pump
Eagle rods w/new bearings
SRP Pistons
Maybe sleeve guard
New head gasket

Head - port & polished
New Valves (Maybe three angle valve grind)
New crane Titanium Valves springs & Retainers
New rocker arms
New seals and guides
Crane Cams

MSD Ignition w/External coil and MSD Cap
DSM 330 injectors
MSD 42gph fuel pump
ARP Head and rod bolts
Taylor 8mm wire set
Apexi fuel management system
Stock fuel rail and Regulator(was thinking of upgrading)
Moroso breather system
Civic half Rad
SKF 70mm throttle body
cat back 2.5 or 3.0 Stainless steel exhaust
Stock intake manifold
Buying a turbo kit off ebay
Looking to run 7-8 psi daily driver

What HP # would I be exspecting?
Would should I add or change?

2

i dont think you’ll get much feedback because you need to do research. by saying ebay turbo kit, everyone on here will flame you. just do research and then more research. if ur gonan get an ebay turbo kit, just get a b16, get some arp headstuds, and turbo it. u should be happy with that for a daily driver. although that turbo kit will be very unreliable

3

i am building a similair build but with a 92 gsr. if u plan on runnig 8-7psi then u dont need 2 do that muck work. And u didnt give a budget, hp goals, etc. The ebay turbo kit things has been covered 2 death and if u get a no name ebay turbo kit u r running a 50/50 chance of getting a good one or bad 1 but research the ebay turbo kit if thats ur route cause there are some things that u will need 2 do.

Block B18A1 - bored, magnaflushed and inspected
Stock Crank- Machined, polished, new bearings
New oil pump
New water pump
Eagle rods w/new bearings
SRP Pistons
Maybe sleeve guard
New head gasket
You wont need eagle rods unless u want to turn up the boost pass 10psi and srp are not needed RS machine makes some good piston that are better than stock and all the head work is not needed. that throttle body is 2 big just stick with the stock one. the rest is ok but if u really want something just get a greddy turbo kit bolt and go

4

i agree sounds like a solid setup, but most of it sounds unnesisary. listen to these guys. look around do your research, i think you need to figure out what hp/tq levels you want and then pick components for the build.

but like i said sounds solid, but way over the top for the application you want.:whisper:

do you plan on staying non vtec? curius cause im planing my build as well right now.:corn:

5

Yeah I plan on staying non vtec. Right now im stuck on what to do. Alot of these parts I already have. The turbo is what Im stuck on. Right now I work at company with a machine shop that specializes in tigg welding. I’m hoping the welder there can help me out. So a custom turbo steup up is not out of the question. I just dont know whats a decent turbo to but for this setup.

6

[QUOTE=Kelso__69;1783285]
New oil pump
New water pump
Eagle rods w/new bearings
SRP Pistons
Maybe sleeve guard

Head - port & polished
New Valves (Maybe three angle valve grind)
New crane Titanium Valves springs & Retainers
New rocker arms
New seals and guides
Crane Cams

MSD Ignition w/External coil and MSD Cap
DSM 330 injectors
MSD 42gph fuel pump
ARP Head and rod bolts
Stock fuel rail and Regulator(was thinking of upgrading)
SKF 70mm throttle body
Stock intake manifold

What HP # would I be exspecting?
QUOTE]

ok well i’ll try and help u out here and go down ur list:

-first things first. u will be running dual valve springs in an ls head. an ls oil pump does not flow enough at high rev’s due to a much lower psi relief spring. this being said simply means the added stress of the dual valve springs and ls oil pumps lack of ability will leave u eating rocker arms at higher revs. obviously ur running dual valvesprings and an upgraded valvetrain to rev higher so this is unavoidable if ur going to use them what they are ment for…high revs! so to fix this issue run a vtec oil pump or 96+oil pump. also ls waterpumps due to 19teeth design over pumps causing alot of air bubbles and “frothing” at higher revs. simple fix is to run a vtec waterpump. so for ur setup run a vtec oil pump, waterpump and obviously run a vtec timing belt. yes it does work

-srp pistons are not a bad choice. like i told u before i’m bias to cp’s but it’s ur choice

-just say NO to sleeve guards aka “block guards” research them. they create hot spots, 50/50 chance of warping the cylinders, only way to properly install is to machine them into place (so why not just sleeve the block at that point) it’s a 50/50 shot with them if they are installed properly. i’ve seen and read way to many negative things about them to ever go near them

-port and polish is a waste of money. the ls is a poor flowing head and in no way will it be worth p&p’ing. save ur money. fully p&p’d ls heads still can’t come close to the cfm a stock vtec head can flow. best upgrade for a ls head is to get ur hands on a p75 head. now don’t think i’m a vtec fan boy as i’m not. i personally will be running a p75 head and u’ll thank me later for telling u this.

-watch out for whos replacing ur valve guides. many people run into problems of them “dropping” due to improper installation. they often are fine and i would avoid replacing them if u can

-those dsm 330’s aren’t gonna get u very far. the key to running the proper sized injectors is to know what hp goal u are going for. with 330’s u will be maxing out the duty cycle way to quickly and that is not good on a turbcharged engine. run a minimum of 440’s is my rule of thumb. always leave urself lot’s of room to work with when choosing injectors; ur tuner will thank you for it.

-i’m not sure what range that fuel pump is in but with a walbro 255lph fuel pump u HAVE to run an aftermarket FPR so u should be in the same boat for urs aswell. the stock FPR will not be able to lower the pressure caused by ur new high flow rate pump. i’m sure u know why thats a problem and is a must if thats the case. stock fuel rail will be fine.

-70mm TB on a stock IM is a waste of money and a bad idea. don’t forget the stock IM’s bore is the same size as the stock TB. so ur not getting anymore air in it with a 70mm TB. now i would highly suggest purchasing an aftermarket IM. i personally like the blox IM and have one myself. best bang for ur buck and huge hp gains over stock. exact design of the Skunk2 and type-r. then match it with ur 70mm TB or even a nice 65mm. stay away from skunk2 TB’s as they stick when they get hot.

last thing, YOU need to tell use ur hp goal. Thats how a proper engine and setup is built. all the parts u use to build an engine are directly related to ur hp goal and purpose.
u need to know:
-HP goal
-budget (directly related and WILL decide ur HP goal. u can’t go fast with no money)
-reliability
-purpose (DD, dd/weekend drag whore, autocross, etc.)
-drivability (fast spool, top end power/max power, etc.)

well thats a long ass post but i hope that helps u and others looking to build a LS-T. i’ve been researching them for a long time now and i’m still building mine but i’m not gonna say what i’ve got planned :angel:

7

Does the 96+ oil pump bolt right onto the b18a1 motor. How do you tell if a water pump is the vtec one or not?

8

The water pumps should have the number of teeth stamped into them.

9

yes the oil pump bolts up perfectly. like i said a ls waterpump has the code t19= 19 teeth. vtec i believe is t22=22 teeth but i’m not sure so don’t take my word for it. vtec waterpump WILL have more teeth than a non-vtec

10

thats correct
19–LS
22–gsr

and you have to use the corresponding timing belt due to the extra teeth.

11

the oil pump.bolts up from what i understand;)

12

if you do get an Ebay kit, swap out the turbo,wastegate and manifold for a good quality one. Get a used or rebuilt t3 for a decent price from blaast. Don’t skimp on a wastegate, get a Tial or comparable. Don’t skimp on the manifold either. Make a solid one your self or invest in one.

Scrap the 330’s as that’s not much more than stock. Get at least 450’s which can be had for $50.

Scrap the Apexi and put the money towards a chipped ecu from Xenocron, or hell I have a chipped obd0 pr4 i can send you with a good basemap for your setup if you are obd0. Piggybacks are not a good idea and there are so many “freeware” applications out there that are 200% more reliable.

Scrap the MSD…overrated. No gain there.

2.5" should suffice,3.0 would be too big imo unless you plan on going with a bigger turbo in the future. I recommend a Thermal 3"

As far as the taylor wires, go with some stock NGK’s with one step colder plugs gapped a little tighter. I think mine are at .28

Upgrading pistons and rods are great insurance for your block.

And BBP-GS DA has a good point:

“last thing, YOU need to tell us YOUR hp goal. Thats how a proper engine and setup is built. All the parts you use to build an engine are directly related to your hp goal and purpose.
You need to tell us:
-HP goal
-budget (directly related and WILL decide ur HP goal. u can’t go fast with no money)
-reliability needs
-purpose (DD, dd/weekend drag whore, autocross, etc.)
-drivability (fast spool, top end power/max power, etc.)”

Tell us your goals and we’ll direct you on how to get there.

13

I’m thinking 300hp DD would make me happy. Maybe 400 if I go to the track and is there anything wrong with msd ignition. Alot of parts already have.

What I have
MSD ignition, MSD fuel pump, 70mm SKF TB, Crane Cams, Crane titanium valve springs and retainers. New Stcok Valves, Taylor Wires, Cold Spark plugs, New Stock water & oil pump, ARP head bolts, Apexi FM.

I might be buying eagle rods and SRP pistons for 600 dollars

There rest on my list I have to get.

Money wise looking at 1500-2000$