my turbo build, need a little help please

hey, I just installed my new engine and turbo kit last weekend, and can’t get the car to start and run. I have gotten it to fire up and run for 30 sec. or less on three different occasions, but it never starts back to back times, and I can’t get it to start at all currently. I am OBD-0, and running a xenocron chipped ECU with turbo edit. I made a basemap with xenocron’s basemap helper program. My setup is this:

b18a block and head
SRP 8.5:1 pistons (81mm)
Speed-O-Motive H-beam forged rods w/ ARP bolts
ACL main and rod bearings
Integra Type R oil and water pumps
ITR timing belt
JG 201 cams
ARP head studs
Honda headgasket
all other new gaskets and seals throughout the engine
New NGK spark plugs
Skunk2 pro series intake manifold
Heat shield IM gasket
PR4 ECU with turboedit
AEM wideband
Boost/vacuum gauge
FAST-TURBO oil line kit w/ feed and drain
2.5" aluminum charge pipes
silicone couplers & T-bolt clamps
Turbo XS RFL-H BOV
28x6x3" bar and plate intercooler
T3 .42/.48 turbo (for now)
UGR ceramic coated manifold
xenocron 255lph fuel pump
DSM 450cc blacktop injectors
6 puck clutch and 14 lb. flywheel
AEM air filter on turbo
2.5" open downpipe (have exhaust for when it starts running, also 2.5")
2.5" test pipe

Everything else I can think of is stock. I am just trying to figure out what I need to do in order to change the cold start properties, this program seems as if starting (cold and warm) isn’t adjustable. I am going to make sure my timing is right again, but it was last night, and it still didn’t fire up. any insight is greatly appreciated, I have to get it running by sunday night so I can go to work monday. thanks!!!

Jeff

just a little update, it starts if I put the gas pedal to the floor and crank for 20 seconds or so. then I have to keep giving it gas to keep it alive. it sounds good when it is running too.

Hi, what is your fuel pressure looking like when trying to start it? I had a similar issue with mine and it turned out to be a bad FPR. It would build just enough pressure to eventually kick it over and it would stall out.

Also, how was your main relay before you installed the turbo? Any problems starting before the turbo went on?

Hope this helps
MantisX

Broke out a copy of turboedit and it looks like theres a fuel pressure option under file and properties. Then put the bullet in fuel pressure. What is the value there currently?

Also on a sidenote, after using crome and seeing ectune, OBD0 is looking really primitive right now. Might wanna upgrade that sucker to OBD1 in the future.

MantisX

definately going obd-1 in the near future, but need it running for now on obd0. the value in fuel pressure is 45 psi. the main relay is good, and I can hear it click and the fuel pump prime. I get pressure at the rail, and have had fuel on the plugs on a few occasions. I will try swapping in my AEM FPR and see if that works. thanks for the help! If there are any other suggestions, I would be happy to hear them and try them! thanks again!

another update, the car starts and idles fine now. The only problem I am currently having is an oil leak that I can’t find, and I have spent hours looking for it. It is coming from the back of the block or head somewhere. It seems to be on the driver side of the block, about half way up, but not as far over as the oil pump area. It is kind of right above the intermediate shaft.

Things I have checked:

oil filter
the two sensors next to oil filter
valve cover gasket
head gasket
oil pan gasket
oil return line
oil feed line

Is there anything else back there that carries oil that I am missing on my list? I tried to check everything I could see, but probably missed something. It seems to only leak when the car is on too. any help is greatly appreciated! thanks

recheck the oil pressure sensor right on the left of the oil filter. i had a MASSIVE oil leak from mine on my 91 RS. and the one on my 92 GS was leaking as well but not as bad. on my 91 it would leave a trail of oil on the street. about a liter a day. it was hard to find, but just take the connector off and clean the sensor and connector really well. start the engine and go check the sensor, if your leak is bad like mine was, you’ll see it start dripping oil right away.

besides that, you pretty much covered all the areas. is your engine clean? if its full of dirt, oil it will be impossible to find leaks.

my engine has just been cleaned/degreased, and sprayed with a flat aluminum paint that is identical to stock original color. I am now thinking that the oil is leaking from the inside of the intermediate shaft (so it may be the oil from the tranny). I can see a dribble of oil coming out, and think it may be being slung up to the top portion of the block. I am hoping there is just a bad seal in there or something I can replace. It never leaked on my other engine, and it was the same shaft. I will recheck the pressure sensor tomorrow, it was a massive leak before!

so I put in the new intermediate shaft seal, and it helped a little. there is still a leak from what looks to me like the shaft, and I was wondering what else could possibly leak on the side that connects to the DS axle. thanks!

try the front main seal. it likes to hide a little and be a little pain in the ass. ive had to replace both my front and rear main seals on every honda ive owned. deffinately a good spot to check.