I have a well tuned LS turbo motor that will not start. I had the turbo set-up put together while residing in Texas 2 years ago. It was tuned on a Hondata S100 and was running great (328hp and 240tq @16psi). I moved to Atlanta and this winter it started acting odd around winter and in mid february I drove it to work, was fine. Got off work and started it up to allow it to warm up before I left.
It stayed on for a few minutes, then cut off. I started it up again, and 1 minute later it cut off. After several times trying to start my car it just would not cut back on. Assuming it was a fuel related issue, I have replaced the fpr, main fuel relay and my map sensor to no progress.
Apparently these are not the issues. Does anyone possibly have a solution or have come across this issue before and resolved it. Please help, growing frusrated…thanks
have you looked at your cap and rotor possibly or grounds to make sure those are in tact. my tuner suggested to me to change my cap and rotor every 10,000 miles. mine was on it’s way out on the dyno. my .02.
Yes I have. Cap and rotor looks great. Spark plugs had a little oil on it, but compression is good, spark on all wires though, just cant figure out what else to look for.
can u hear the fuel pump
Yes, fuel pump is working, also when I pulled off the fpr and started the car, fuel spilled out real fast. I’m really hoping that it is not the ecu. Atlanta had some heavy rain during the opening of spring and my passenger side floorboard was soaked, but the ecu looks to be dry and okay… I dunno
try a friends ecu if you can. OBD1 or OBD0. just start it and see. BTW, what injectors are you running?
I am using DSM 550cc injectors. I have scheduled to have my DA towed to a local shop later this week, to see if they can remedy the issue. I am really trying to nip this in the butt before dishing out some cash and I thank all who are helping me out!
I will try and see if anyone has a obd1 ecu…
if you use dsm 550cc injector did you install a resistor box???
on 91 - dont need one but on 92+ you should this is pretty hard for a ECU and you may have burned it…
looking for ECU and crank sensor is my guess
He said he’s had this setup for 2 years now, I would imagine if it was resistor box related that would’ve been an issue 2 years ago after getting everything installed.
Try swapping the ECU, did you try the battery, check the starter?
It does have a resistor box, but can these things go bad after awhile? And yes, I also have checked out the battery and starter, though it seems the battery does not hold a charge after trying to start it many of times.
my buddy had the same issue on his turbo setup we found out that at startup the injectors would push to much and flood it out but then again he had 1000cc we threw in my ecu and it started right up so we had to turn back the fuel on startup.
maybe this will help
justin
I will try that. I got a co-worker that is going to bring a ecu to work with a crome basemap. From my understanding to what he told me, it is an obd 1 GSR ecu when he was turbocharged. I’m hoping to plug that up to my DA and see if it starts.
Thanks again everybody…I’m hoping this starts and I can work from there. I’ll let you guys know by tomorrow.
If you still have your OBD0 stuff, you can put back your injectors, OBD0 distributor and ECU and see if that works too.
Back to the basics! Don’t start changing out parts if you dont have to. Here’s what I would do…
You said it would start, run, then die…now it wont start at all. Since it was working and now its not (without changing anything) I would assume its nothing mechanical giving you problems.
Take a spare spark plug (or take one out) and connect it to any spark plug wire and ground the plug to something metal. Have someone turn it over and watch for a spark. If there is spark, move on. If not, you know you’ve got ignition issues. If your cap and rotor are not old and look ok, then try swapping out your entire distributor with a known good one. It could be your coil, or ignitor, but if you swap in a known good §§§§§, you’ll know if you are on the right track.
You can see if the injectors/fuel pump are working by removing all four spark plugs and turning over the engine and seeing if you can see/smell gas pumping out of the spark plug holes. However, if you do this, unplug the spark plug wires from the distributor cap so your not flingin sparks around while there are potential gas fumes nearby.
These two quick tests should let you know whether you’ve got a ignition or fuel related issue. Once you know which one, we’ll help you pinpoint the problem from there.
The mystery is solved! Now hondata vs crome
[SIZE=“3”]Thank you all for your help. I borrowed an ecu from a co-worker that once owned a turbo EG Civic. I pulled out my HONData S100 obd1 ecu, and placed in his Crome obd1 ecu. The car started right up and stayed on for a long time before I cut off the car myself.
I will have to find out the specs of what he had programed on this Crome basemap and see if I can have it sent out to basemap my specs. My problem is going from Hondata to Crome and finding a reputable tuner here in Atlanta (remember, I had a perfect tuner in Dallas,TX). Anyones thoughts on Hondata vs Crome?
Oh, by the way, I believe the problem was rain exposure from the passenger side floor board(typical DA $#!t). There was rain residue around the ecu…Now I gotta fix the floor board. What a waist of a programmed ecu.[/SIZE]
the same exact thing happened to me too. water from the infamous DA passenger leak fried my ecu. fixed that leak and got a chipped ecu and all is good now.