My Twin Turbo setup. Insight encouraged, Flaming not allowed!

Yea, sorry Armed Farret, I just assumed (and kinda hoped) you would come into this thread with some questions and criticism, as you have done on other threads in the past…perhaps you are awaiting further development?

Anyways, I make small progress every day. Being a full-time student with two jobs and a Fiance tends to leave little time for wrenching…

But I have completed rebuilding and prepping the shortblock for my car, and I put my spare block and head in the bay to start mocking everything up. And I scored a GREAT deal on some drive shaft shop 475hp rated axles! Thank god, those damn re-man axles only lasted me a month before they failed, and my car was NA. Engine will be done soon and then I can move on to the Fab work.

On a side note, I decided that for the sake of simplifying things a tad, I’m going to have vtec crossover and turbo #2 happen at the same time. I figure it should help reduce or eliminate an almost certain dip in the torque curve from turbo2 stealing half of the exhaust away from turbo1. Or it could work against me and make for too violent of a transition.

And then I realize that I just need to get the thing driving and see for myself what’s going to happen.

well dude there was some technical theory research going on there. thats respectable. thats probably why mark didnt give you major flamage… thats only gonna happen now if u dont make it or it fails horribly, which i hope it wont. i think its an interesting project and im eager to see how you make it work in the g2 engine bay. now if u came in here talkin about “two turboz and mad vtak yo, tell me how do it guyz. do i need a valvejob” or some silly shit that doesnt make any sense… u know the stuff you read through every other day on here, then it would have been a flame fest. you seem to know what you are doing with it so, again, good luck. just post some pics of the progress so we KNOW that you and this project are the real deal!

“two turboz and mad vtak yo, tell me how do it guyz. do i need a valvejob” or some silly shit

ROFLMAO!
Pix!

Spare engine ready for mock-up

Here is my center console. I need to get another boost gauge for it. The left gauge will monitor intake manifold pressure, and the right will be for turbo #2 only. The red LED will be a vtec light, yellow will be pre-spool indicator, and green is going to be turbo#2 online. The little switch will allow me to disable turbo#2 from coming on entirely, which will also prevent the ECU from switching to #2 ign and fuel maps. Then I will be able to tune the #1 maps for one turbo only. I’m going to have the gauge for turbo2 light up only when the switch is set to ON for turbo2 to come on. I even drew up a whole wiring diagram (I’m a nerd, I know) of how the gauges and lights will be wired in, and I bought some plugs so the center console can be unplugged and removed easily.

Here are some of my parts that I am now selling, since I don’t need them anymore.

I have both sets of JDM and USDM twins to choose from!

Good shortblock. Hopefully I’ll get the head on and torqued tonight after school.

Can someone please remind me how to resize these damn pics after they are uploaded to the host.

This going is going to be interesting… and my first reactions were to flame being someone who has become quite knowledable about boosted hondas and just sick of seeing the same rice thinking they can build boost hondas with just about anything. But i respect the thought and curiosity put into this build. From my point of view, assuming you can get a tune to work properly and the entire thing to fit… the biggest downside would be the weight added in the front of the car and if theres any kinks after a roadtest its gonna be a headache. I am very curious what the power curve is going to look like and what your reactions are to driving it…personaly i dont care to exert that kind of effort just to be unique but stay focused and good luck!:salute:

Weight is definately a downfall in this setup. I havn’t weighed what I am using of the assembly yet, but as pictured it weighed 95lbs. Luckily my car is about 200lbs lighter than the stock weight (I weighed it at a truck stop), so I’m thinking the addition of all of the turbo components are going to bump it back up to near-stock weight, which I’m ok with. I think a lot of the weight is coming from all the cast iron parts, and I’m replacing the cast manifold with a steel one, which will shave some of the weight. Plus I might end up rebuilding and replacing some of the cast downpipe pieces which would save some weight as well.

keep the updates coming!

You must be rich…good luck…

i know lighter is faster, but isn’t it better to have more weight on the front end to get more traction?? i lost weight in the front and honestly it just makes me spin tire more and you can feel the front lifting as it boosts.

Well, the front end of any car will lift on heavy acceleration because of weight transfer. Even tank-ass DSM’s lift quite a bit on acceleration, both fwd and awd.

Tire spin is also an issue for any powerful fwd vehicle, its just par for the course. All you can do is get an LSD, some nice tires and suspension, and maybe some traction bars (or if you’re really hard core, some wheelie bars! lol).

And I’m about as far from rich as you can get. Like I said, its still going to cost LESS than the single turbo setup. Its just like piecing together a junkyard turbo setup.

For updates, I recieved the manifold elbows and tee’s and I’m awaiting the arrival of the header flange. Then the manifold fab can begin…

I had, what I feel, was a pretty good idea for my initial testing procedure. My plan is to keep it on just 1 turbo and get a decent tune for just turbo1. Then I’ll hook up temporary hand-held switches for a passenger to activate the solenoids for pre-spool and turbo2 activation. To prevent a horribly lean condition when turbo2 spools, I’m going to temporarily install an FMU that increases fuel pressure only when turbo2 makes boost. This should make it a breeze to experiment with different timing. Once I find the combination of events that seems to work best, I’ll program the ECU to orchestrate everything automatically.

And I made some brackets to hold the turbos in my engine bay as I prepare to build the manifold (if that damn header flange would show up). As soon as I find my camera, I’ll post pics!

Bump. really wanting to see it happen i just hope that you dont have problems and rush yourself like the guy with the twinn turbo crx did. GOOD LUCK BUDDY BOY

man, you better have lots of pictures, videos, and sound clips as soon as your done with it…

wow i applaud you for trying to make this happen. and honestly i really do think its as simple as you have it planned. i dont think your going to run into many problems. the only thing i see becoming an issue is the weight of that setup hanging from the manifold. you need to lighten it up, get rid of all of that cast shit like you mentioned earlier, get the steel downpipe elbows. reduce as much weight as possible, 95lbs is a shitload of weight to be haning from some small welds.

Hey, wow I’ve read through everything you’ve posted so far and it seems awesome on how your working at this, keep posting pictures with the updates, I’ve just recently bought a 92 GSR and well, looking into a turbo after winter, but if this setup works for you, and you can push some more ponies out of this setup than a regular one turbo setup, please, share with us how much it costs, and the results, procedure, then hell, I’ll take it into consideration :slight_smile:

Keep up with the good work bud,:slight_smile:

[QUOTE=Da1spaz247;1758733]ROFLMAO!


Here are some of my parts that I am now selling, since I don’t need them anymore.[/QUOTE]

I need ur help!!! what brand turbo manifold is that?? where did u get it?? i MUST know as i’m looking at buying one of those and it’s the exact same as what u have! whats the quality like? thanks so much if u could help me.

oh i read ur thread. awesome project. i love the progress and props for giving it a try.

The manifold pictured is an SSAutocrome “Twisted Ram-horn”. The quality is a little better than decent. All three flanges were fairly warped and I had to get them resurfaced. The construction looked very solid, but fitment was horrible. The only way it would have worked is with a very small turbo.

Tomorrow is my birthday and I told my Fiance that all I wanted to do is work on my car ALL DAY! I could get so much done if I had a whole day, not just 1/2 hour here, 20 mines there. Her brother in law is the guy making my turbo flanges for me and I just gave him the go-ahead to starting maching them out. I finally got the header flange, so tomorrow I’ll hopefully get the log part of the manifold sized and tacked in place. My buddy, who is currently going to school at Milwaukee Area Technical College for welding did a sample tig weld bead for me on the same metal that the turbo flanges will be made of. His welds looked BEAUTIFUL! And he’s welding it free of charge, since I’ve been slaving away at his wire-tuck on his Civic for the last couple weeks!

And yea, I was thinking I would need at least two sturdy braces on the bottom of the turbos to the block to take the weight off the manifold.

The first step to building manifold is done! This is the first time I have ever built a manifold, and I think its turning out pretty good. The only bummer is that they sent me two different T pieces, so it doesnt look symmetrical, but I’m not too concerned. If everything works out, I’ll build a new one with stainless!

And here’s the first mock up of the turbo(s) placement. I did have my Del Sol radiator in there before, so I know it does clear it by about 3/4". My buddy with the civic is borrowing it until he gets his own.



It’s tough to tell from the pic, but I do have enough clearence to build the rest of the downpipe off the bottom of the last cast piece pictured, without modifying the cross member!

looks good keep it up.

:up::up:

Simply, wow!

I love seeing people trying new things even if they’re not 100% sure it will work!

Props to you! Hope everything goes well.