ok so i have a quick question. i have a Stock LS motor with a greddy turbo kit (running a small garett t3 turbo on there i think it is) on 5pounds only right now, i have yet to even come near boost while driving it. i am currently broke (college student) and don’t have the funds to get the injectors/fuel pump/dyno/street tune at the moment but i should this comming summer. i am tired of driving so slow minivans overtake me all day. my question is, how safe is my motor? i have this fear that even if i touch boost my motor will go POP, i’ve installed a boost gauge just to know when to let off the gas (before it even touches 0 mark). i just wanted to know if i could drive it a bit more normally without baby-ing the pedal everywhere i go. how safe am i? : (
unsafe. don’t go into boost. at all.
yeah i figured, thanks, now with my boost gauge i’ll know exactly when to let off
definetly unsafe.
I know what you guys are going to say, but get a FMU its a chaep bolt on. It is alot better than running with no fuel management at all. Just incase of an emergency you have to throttle it, the FMU will be there to regulate. WAY safer than nothing at all.
can the stock fuel pump take the extra PSI it need to get to a decent rich mixture ?
Chip the ECU, its cheaper than a fmu and with a good basemap from xenocron you can drive the car…with boost.
So a chipped ecu of his setup per spec he is able to run it safely under boost?
not to take his thread but i also need info too on this since its here so…
What is exactly properly needed when having a turbo anyway to be able to drive under boost or redline or drive normally? Yea my nub question rules.
I dont want to end up just getting the same kit and find out i need more stuff so what else is all needed to be able to drive at least safe if not able to tune it just yet?
a basemap is just what it is… It’s just a starting point… you can never trust a basemap to be safe…
if you got more air coming in, to compensate, you need more fuel…so stock fuel/timing isnt gonna cut it…
fuel management/engine management is a must.
check out xenocron.com for everything honda/acura tuning related. great place to pick up just what you need
also, look up turboedit(obd0) or crome(obd1) for tuning options.
Read up on the g2ic turbo guide…great place to start also
The reason I mentioned FMU was because he said he was broke and (correct me if I’m wrong) but if he gets a basemap (it maybe around the same price) but he would also need to get injectors and that is alot more money. The FMU is a quick bolt on, just slap it on and its a done deal not the best choice, but alot safer than running anything at all, he did say he was not going to full throttle.
an FMU would be an acceptable band-aid until the appropriate management can be obtained.
but it IS just a band-aid. on the really minor stuff band-aids work fine.
on some of the stuff i’ve seen, a band-aid will just stick to the muscle and bone tissue.
FWIW.
do you have 17 inch wheels or something to sell ? driving a turbo car and not being able to use it is useless, so much more fun to drive than having these big wheels on. Oh and by the way, if you are broke for tuning it, keep some money for the gas, you’ll have to use premium and plan on reducing MPG by ALOT. And you’ll never know what can go wrong on a turbo car, so much more heat, pressure and things to go bad. All my radiator hose blew, especially the upper one since it is so hot. 15-18years old rubber…
before chipped ecu’s and hondata all there were for fuel managment were FMU’s.
5psi is just fine running an FMU. if you were at 10 i would say no.
hmm, I’d agree that an fmu would probably be a good bandaid. Then again, chipping the ecu with a basemap costs what, $25 if you can install it yourself? Which one is better for the cost? Without a WBO2, how do you know where your A/F ratios are? With a chip, you only get one shot to get it right, unless you bought a burner, or knew someone with one. With an FMU, you do have a little flexibility with making adjustments.
I’d say use an FMU for the time being, and do some research on spark plug reading tests/techniques.
[QUOTE=Da1spaz247;1836299]hmm, I’d agree that an fmu would probably be a good bandaid. Then again, chipping the ecu with a basemap costs what, $25 if you can install it yourself? Which one is better for the cost? Without a WBO2, how do you know where your A/F ratios are? With a chip, you only get one shot to get it right, unless you bought a burner, or knew someone with one. With an FMU, you do have a little flexibility with making adjustments.
I’d say use an FMU for the time being, and do some research on spark plug reading tests/techniques.[/QUOTE]
or just run the FMU so he can enjoy the car while he saves his money for some hondata and a good tune so he can turn the boost up to 8-10psi reliably.
no i don’t have 17" wheels to sell, who runs 17’s on these cars anyway? but anywho, thanks for the information guys, i talked to alot of people and they told me similar things. getting a fmu and whatnot, i do have alot of friends here who work on these cars, i already have the 450cc injectors from a older turbo dsm, i still need the 255 walbro fuel pump, and there is some kind of fuel injection system control unit that was in the car already, but not hooked up (it looks like a silver rectangular thingy with buttons) but i’ll have someone look at that. i’m just going to pay my friend 150 for now for a safe street tune so my car doesn’t go kaboom. and save up until i can head up to RLZ to get it dyno tuned. also needing to find out why my car burns oil, return oil lines or something maybe. again appreciate the info guys.
ok so i looked at my turbo specialties injection control unit today, its installed on the car but the wires from the control box are not connected to the car yet, i also looked at my engine bay and a fuel regulator is already installed on the car, so i’m thinking about just hooking up this system i have already up to the car, and put in the 450cc injectors and going from there.