NA 2.0L round two and exterior freshen up!

I don’t know how to get that reading (Maybe I am just being semi slow here? haha) I did not tune it, im sure I can get the information if you want to know more details as to what is going on.

What was it tuned with?

It was tuned with Crome, eventually I am going to have it retuned with Hondata.

Dude congrats! That’s awesome power for a 2.0L. All-Motor ftw right there.

So you’re seeing it start pulling vacuum on a gauge correct?

Thanks man! There is still some power to be unlocked just gotta figure out the proper intake and have everything matched up in the TB and the runners port matched to the head.

I hope this is right, he said it was pulling 22 at idle and then when he went WOT it was at 0 all the way to 7800ish then it wanted to pull a slight amount of vacuum, somewhere in the 1 or 2 inch range.

I cant imagine anything in you intake setup being a restriction.

Maybe there is a leak at the map sensor?

[QUOTE=TerribleTeg;2318778]I cant imagine anything in you intake setup being a restriction.

Maybe there is a leak at the map sensor?[/QUOTE]

So I asked the guy that tuned my car if this was a possibility, and he said it could be but if the map sensor had a leak it shouldn’t read as consistent as it did and it shouldn’t only pull the vacuum up top like it did. But with that I am going to replace it and make sure it has a good seal before I go back and get it retuned when I add some resonators and port the intake manifold. :stuck_out_tongue:

Oh and I finally got my Function7 LCA’s on and with the 3" Thermal I think it looks pretty good, much better then my last canister exhaust!

Well it going to be pulling much harder in the higher rpms, so why is it not possible that it is staying sealed until it reaches that point?

I would think if it was needed re-calibrated it would read incorrectly always, like you would go WOT and the vacuum would never reach zero. If it hits zero and in the higher rpm begins to pull vacuum then it probably is correctly calibrated.

Or you actually have a restriction in your intake system, which I guess you could take your intake off and run just the filter and see if it changes. A 70mm TB and a 3.5in intake probably wouldn’t restrict a mildly built LSx. There is no way it is restrictive on a mild two liter, and we both know that manifold can flow more than you’ll ever need.

And chance at getting a sound clip of that exhaust setup?

[QUOTE=TerribleTeg;2318885]Well it going to be pulling much harder in the higher rpms, so why is it not possible that it is staying sealed until it reaches that point?

I would think if it was needed re-calibrated it would read incorrectly always, like you would go WOT and the vacuum would never reach zero. If it hits zero and in the higher rpm begins to pull vacuum then it probably is correctly calibrated.

Or you actually have a restriction in your intake system, which I guess you could take your intake off and run just the filter and see if it changes. A 70mm TB and a 3.5in intake probably wouldn’t restrict a mildly built LSx. There is no way it is restrictive on a mild two liter, and we both know that manifold can flow more than you’ll ever need.[/QUOTE]

The port on the IM is only at 65 mm so there is a chance it is causing the restriction coming in from a 70mm TB. And the intake arm had a few funky bends so I am going to eliminate those and just love with it. It has plenty of power for what I want it to be haha. And yes, there is no way I am out flowing the Victor X with my NA 2.0 liter, that’s why I didn’t understand why there is a choke point. However I know I’ll get it figured out to help clean up the power band.

Yeah I am going to try to but the car doesn’t have tabs right now, still got a few more things to do before it is road legal, but after that I will get one for sure.

what cams are you running? also ever thought about running a skunk 2 ultra street from 4 piston or an ported itr manifold? i had a friend of mine that ran this setup that made 230/158

85mm b20 ycp pistons itr reps
stock gsr head
old skunk2 manifold
comptech race header
3in exhaust
skunk 2 stage 2 cams
done on hondata

[QUOTE=noir90;2318950]what cams are you running? also ever thought about running a skunk 2 ultra street from 4 piston or an ported itr manifold? i had a friend of mine that ran this setup that made 230/158

85mm b20 ycp pistons itr reps
stock gsr head
old skunk2 manifold
comptech race header
3in exhaust
skunk 2 stage 2 cams
done on hondata[/QUOTE]

They are “custom” DDTECH camshafts, and I was going to run the Ultra Street but couldn’t pass up the deal on the Victor X. The next intake setup I will try is ITB’s, don’t care too much about what it makes peak versus what the whole power band looks like.

Those are some pretty solid numbers from a basic B20V, pretty similar to what my old set up put down only I didn’t have a 3" exhaust just a 2 1/2 crush bent. Nonetheless, it was super fun to drive.

that is one thing i hate about the da is finding a good exhaust that is maderal bent for a decent price. i believe the ddtech cams should wake that thing up a bit. are they the reapers?

They were made by Derek before the Reapers officially came around, but I would assume they are somewhat close to the specs of them.
The Thermal isn’t too bad on price and it has top notch fitment, although I ran into a slight issue with the Fastline Performance shifter hitting it. But I figured it would happen because the extension on the bottom half is a little longer then I first thought.

Do the 3 inch exhaust. I just got my real basic b20v done and he told me to go with a 3inch even though i made 216 153 on 2.5 crush bent exhaust

I do have a Thermal R&D 3" Exhaust :wink:

It is about the same tone as my last set up with 2.5" crush bent, but I need to add a resonator or two to the Thermal because it is a little raspy for my taste. Im still working on getting a sound clip of it. But the car is down right now because it ate an axle and the throwout bearing decided that it didn’t play well with everything else.

i would like to hear a sound clip i’m still looking for a good 3 inch kit i don’t have to piece together.

Soo, after a long hiatus from this car and the car scene in general I have caught to bug to finish my car and be able to enjoy it again. I know this forum seems to have really fallen off with its use as most of the Honda forums have and they have all switched to Facebook or some other sorts, but I thought it would be fun to start this build thread back up as a small token of my appreciation to G2IC community.

I recently bought a house and it has a detached garage so I will be able to take the car apart and give it some of the updates I have been meaning to do for a long time, without being outside in the cold or in the summer “heat” and rain. I have a bunch of parts that I have been accumulating so I will be able to throw those on, actually paint the car, and get the car retuned with a better intake set-up so that it can be up to its full potential.

When I get the car moved I will start to update this thread with pictures and hopefully some write ups so that they can become a decent resource again and maybe allow the small community of Gen 2 owners some reading material.

I was looking at the date of the posts and was like, this is an old thread. With your last note, I had to laugh. Same exact thing happened to me. Took the car off the road 9 years ago and slowly did some work under a carport, but the past 3 years nothing. Parts accumulated over the time. Finally bought a house with a garage and 6 months later i have done more work on the car than I have in 9 years!

Good luck and enjoy, I will be keeping an eye on your build. It is very quiet in there so it is good to see others still showing love for the G2.

btw, there is an issue with the site that cuts off posts if you use an apostrophe. Just a warning to keep you sane haha