i was woundering what is a safe amount of nitrous i can run on b20z the reason i want to put it in is cuz i want more power but i want to be able to not have it running when im in traffic or traveling to and from work.
close the bottle if u dont want it on.
A few guys in my club are putting on nitro so i am becoming more knowledgable. From what i hear u should be safe with a 50 shot. Dont do a dry shot what ever u do, even if it means no nitrous
I’m shooting 55 shot dry on my b20v and my buddy’s on 65 shot dry both on zex kit to be safe switch to colder plugs and kick timing back 1-2 deg and you be alright
dont bother with a dry kit…it will burn pinholes in your pistons over time…the fuel mixture gets too inconsistent…timing is irrelevant with this problem…if you get a wet kit it cools the combustion temperatures and will give you reliability and longetivity…you dont want to be rebuilding your motor a year from now do you…save the extra $100 and get a ZEX wet kit.
i’m not sure i got a guy in town runs a zex dry 75 shot runs at the track every weekend and still runs strong rebuild free for 2 years!!! runs high 13’s in a accord matter a fact.
^^^thats not to say that car isnt a time bomb…its a proven fact that dry kits burn up motors
not if you run everything safely an untuned dry kit mess ur motor up but if you follow the manufacter specs and tune on the safe side you be rebuild free for years. dry good for 65 shot no more and wet whatever floats ur boat or the point of blowing up ur motor. either way both dry and wet will blow up motors if not tuned right period.
you keep talking about “tuning” :shrug: there is no “tuning” a wet kit the fuel/nitrous jet “tunes” the mixture it comes “tuned” from the factory thats why a wet kit is better hands down…and the only thing you need to do to a nitrous setup when you install it is back the timing off according to the instructions and get some colder plugs thats why its called “Horsepower in a Bottle” 
i know i talk about tuning but there’s more you can do on a nitrous system then what to factory setting is here let me show you. 
fatory jetting of most nitrous systems is usually very conservative with careful tuning it’s possible to extract another 5 to 20 hp on most kits.
A stock ignition is good for and up to 100 shot but an msd or external coil will be better on the safe side on the spark issue. More than 50 shot on stock ignition will require closing the plug gap down to as small as .020 inches to avoid misfire and big setups will require closing the gaps regardless of stock or aftermarket ignitions. if misfire occur you can try closing down the gap in increments of .005 inch until misfire goes away.
Tuning should be done on good gas something 92 on up. Because nitrous has a high oxygen density more power can be gained by leaning out the nitrous and fuel mixture. About 2 to 4 degrees retard for every 50 hp of nitrous is a good rule to follow by.
Leaning out the mixture out with an fuel adj. regulator by couple of psi every run, checking plugs for any sign of detonation. if heard back the throttle asap to avoid blowing up the motor. If you reduce fuel pressure by 10% and the motor is pulling stronger you may want to return to base fuel pressure and go one size smaller on fuel jet. Don’t reduce nitrous system fuel pressure by more than this. Oh remember to check the bottle to see how full it’s the bottle should be changed out before the half way point waste or not!!! :vomit: a prefect setup with a almost empty bottle will blow a motor up really quick make sure to have nitrous gauge and fuel pressure gauge when tuning. If you have gone one size smaller in fuel jet and the motor still wants less fuel, you might want to add 2 degrees of timing up to base stock timing. Be careful as a nitrous system will usually feels better and better right until the motor blows up.
I hope this clear things up when i say tuning a ntrous system wet or dry to be safe just follow the factory setting for first timers and if you want to be brave lean the system out but do it with caution or look for someone who has work with nitrous to help you out.
SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much misinformation on this website! DRY KITS are SAFER than wet with a smaller shot(<100hp) zex dry kits can be tuned. they use 2 jets, 1 for fuel and 1 for nitrous. The zex dry kit uses nitrous pressure to spike your fuel pressure, therfore adding fuel. if you change the fuel jet this adds/removes fuel pressure while spraying, thus tuning your A/F.
With a wet kit you NEEEEEEED a window switch to shut the spray off before rev limit(fuel cut) With a wet kit, if your still sprayin while boucing rev limit your running LEAN because the fuel solenoid is still sprayin a lil bit of fuel into the cylinder. a lean condition + n20 = kaboooooom while the dry kit dosn’t spray any gas into the cylinder, while boucing rev limit your not going lean. nitrous is NOT flamable by itself. when mixed with gas the o2 in the nitrous makes the gasoline more flamable. damn internet genius’ spreading BAD INFO. :loser:
Also with a 55 or 65 shot there is NOOOOOOOOOO need to back the timing down. a 75 needs maybe 1 degree taken out. I run -2 degree’s on my shops 240sx street car. 100 shot, t3t4b, and a stock sr20det(made 275whp@13psi, 425whp@13psi on the bottle) that is on 93octane and AEM EMS. the car has run 11.2@125mph with a stock block. now we just rebuilt a sr20det with cp pistons and arp everything w/ a BB T58. It made 400whp@13psi.
I used nitrousssssss on my 2000 j-spec b20.
Didn’t have any problems.
I used colder plugs(don’t use the zex ones, there shit), retarded timing, use the fuel pressure riser and increased the fuel pressure.
I didn’t use it often mostly at the track and was careful when I did.
It’s a blast if you’ve never used it before.
