[SIZE=4]The Ultra Easy To Understand Omnipower Full Coilover Install Guide[/SIZE]
Step One: Remove your coilovers from their boxes (picture one). After doing so, find yourself an Allen wrench, and a 19mm wrench. Look down on to the top of the entire strut assembly, find a Allen type hole. Place an Allen key inside of this. This will give you enough leverage to hold the assembly still while you loosing the nut just below the Allen with your 19mm wrench. Loosen the 19mm nut until the top of the it is flush with the top of the bolt shaft. Now raise the spring up as far as possible towards the 19mm bolt. Tighten down the lower spring perch and lower spring perch lock just under the spring. Leave everything as is for now.
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Step Two: Now to remove your old struts/springs assembly. First you need to get a 14mm socket, a 3/8 extension, a hammer/sledgehammer, a phillips screwdriver, a 12mm socket, a 17mm wrench, and a 17mm socket. Use your extension with the 14mm socket on the pinch bolt. The pinch bolt is at the top of the strut fork (picture two). This is the bolt in the first picture, that is highlighted in green. You may take the entire bolt out. Now look at the back of the strut and disconnect the brake line holder with your 12mm socket. Now look down on the strut fork. You will see a nut on one side, and a bolt on the other side of the strut fork. Place your 17mm wrench on the bolts head. Take your 17mm socket and start loosening the 17mm nut. Once the nut is off, hit the nut side end of the bolt (picture three). Once the end of the bolt is flush with the strut arm, take your screwdriver and place it in the center of the bolt. Hit the end of the screwdriver and drive the bolt out of the entire strut fork. Your screwdriver may get stuck within the strut fork, so just place your foot on top of the brake caliper. Push down on the caliper as you wiggle out the bolt. Push down the caliper again and pull downwards on the strut fork to dismantle the strut fork with the bottom of the strut. Now, take your 14mm socket, and loosen the top 2 nuts (picture four) while keeping in mind that this is the only thing that holds the strut/spring assembly in. Now ease out your assembly, you’re done removing it!
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Step Three: Now for the fun part, installation. The first step is to shorten your assembly to be at least 2’’ shorter than the stock assembly. Or if you’re in my shoes and already had lowering springs on, shorten the assembly to be about the same size as the previous. This can be done by loosening the lower collar perch (picture five), then twisting up the lower collar by hand (picture six). Keep the lower collar loose until Step Four. Now gently place the assembly within the fender. Line up the bolts with the strut holes that held the 14mm nuts. Hold in the assembly while you finger tighten the 14mm nuts. Tighten them down with your ratchet/socket. Grab your strut fork, place the top of the strut fork over the bottom of the assembly and replace the 14mm bolt you removed earlier. Tighten this down. The next part is probably the hardest of the job if you’re doing this by yourself (picture seven). You need to push down on the brake to give yourself enough room to manuver the bolt into the bottom of the fork. Once you get the bolt in, hammer in the end of it and secure the 17mm nut. Take your 17mm socket and put it over the nut, while you secure the other side of the bolt with your 17mm wrench. Tighten down the nut.
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Step Four: Now that you’ve installed the assembly, it’s time to lower the car and check the ride height. Put the wheel back on, tighten down the lugs, lower the jack. More than likely you won’t be happy with the ride height (picture 8). Raise the car back up and and take off the wheel. Loosen the pinch bolt (the bolt on top of the strut fork) and twist the lower collar by hand until you think you’ve got your ride height dialed in to where you want it. Repeat the steps to lowering the car. Continue to do this until you’ve got your desired ride height.
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Step Five: Once you have your desired ride height, tighten up the pinch bolt. Now take your coilover adjusting tools (picture 9) and tighten down the lower collar perch. Since your Omnipower Coilovers don’t come with brake line holders, get some zip ties and zip tie up your brake lines on the strut fork or wherever you want. Cut off the excess. Lower the car down again. Refer yourself to your 19mm socket and begin to tighten down the 19mm bolt on top of the assembly (you loosened this bolt in Step One). This doesn’t have to be torqued to 100lbs, so don’t go overkill on this (picture 10). That’s it! You’re done with the install and preloading of the springs!
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Step Six: Take the car for a spin, and enjoy your new Omnipower Full Coilovers!
[SIZE=4]My Experience Of The Omnipower Coilovers[/SIZE]
Going from Tokico Blues with Tokico Springs I was a bit hesitant to try out the 10k/8k spring rated Omnipowers. Once I had them installed all my doubt went away. I love how it rides. I know ride quality is subjective but these aren’t rough at all. The struts are perfectly paired with the springs so everything works out perfectly! The car handles better than before aswell. Body roll is minimized as well as bumping. The car rides smooth, no suspension squeeks, creeks, or noises. It feels like the car is a whole other ride. I strongly suggest these to anyone who wants a sporty feeling, lowered, street driven car.
i’ve been riding on mine for about a week, very satisfied:up: