I have a heavily modded turbo setup in my '92 teg. The problem im having right now is that on hot days my car tends to overheat quite a bit and of course cools down as i drive. I have a stock '92 rad with one aftermarket fan, i think that could be the problem. I also find my coolant resevoire can is very low and I’ve added coolant into it maybe 3 times this summer, is that normal? Im worried and need some suggestions as to what it may be. Im guessing the having only the one fan doesn’t help. The block is sleeved and capable of over 400whp with c16 and tuning. Im debating wether or not to invest in a Fluidine or C&R rad with an extra fan so i have two or just and extra fan. I’ve heard and know of people running stock fans and rads so makes me wonder.
Get another fan on there and also look into getting a fluidyne or C&R. Effecient cooling is key to reliability. Many people do run on stock cooling components but a lot of them either don’t have aftermarket gauges to tell them just how hot things are getting, and/or they don’t care or they don’t think it’s a problem (and then bitch and whine about blown headgaskets et al).
When you’re sitting in traffic there is so much more exhaust system surface area to radiate heat that the radiator will soak up all that heat unless you can move a lot of air into the engine bay.
check for air bubbles, and remember watter wetter is your friend.
im in las vegas,using a stock civic rad with a turbo b16, and rarely get above half way on the stock temp guage.
Originally posted by the-anti-crack check for air bubbles, and remember watter wetter is your friend.
im in las vegas,using a stock civic rad with a turbo b16, and rarely get above half way on the stock temp guage.
I’ve already done the air bubble check for like an hour, making sure there were none. Originally we thought that was it was but soon enough i overheated again. Water wetter i’ve heard is a way to go. How does this stuff work? Does it replace your coolant? Please give me more details.
it is a coolant, it works great.
i dont use antifreez when using water wetter if that is what you are getting at.
ever hear of red line racing oil? they make water wetter.
how cold? im from eugene oregon…its pretty fucking cold there too. i always ran antifreeze…but didnt really need too.
i have plenty of friends that dont run any there.
it takes a long time to go from operating temp to freezing…and i drive every day.
My teg overheated like yours too when I was running one fan. You need to run two fans.Trouble shoot everything. Make sure to bleed the air bubbles out. Turn the bleed valve counter clockwise. It’s located above the thermostat housing behind the head. Continue filling up the rad until the bubbles stop. Have the front of the car on a 30 degree incline, like half the car up your driveway. Using a rag, to protect you from the heat, squeeze the top radiator hose repeatedly to help bleed the system.
Look for small leaks even on the small hoses. I had one on a small hose and over a short time it’ll empty out your cooling system. See if your fans turn on. From a cold start open your rad cap and check for water flow when the thermostat opens up. Check your thermostat switch and thermostat. I changed both to Mugen version.
After I did all that it stopped overheating, except when I took the key out and the turbo timer kept the motor running. After a minute guage went past 3/4.Come to find out I didn’t have the tt wired to true ignition. So the fans weren’t tuning on after the tt ran the motor. I rewired that and overheating went away. I eventually got the full size Fluidyne, did the bleeding procedures and hadn’t had any problems since. I’m still running the stock fans but I’m going to change them to Zirgo fans (www.zirgo.com). The 9" is only 2.1" thick and flows 1500cfm and the 12" is 2.2" thick and flows 1600cfm and both have high power ball bearing motors. Use pullers, Fluidyne tech support told me on the pusher config you loose about 20% efficiency.
try runing a manual switch in addition to the stock switch.
race inc helped me do that…well he did it and it really helps. i just turn it on whenever im in traffic.’
yes it will still go on by its self.
Originally posted by the-anti-crack try runing a manual switch in addition to the stock switch.
race inc helped me do that…well he did it and it really helps. i just turn it on whenever im in traffic.’
yes it will still go on by its self.
This sounds like a good idea. Being able to activate your fan(s) while in traffic when the motor heats up the most, idleing. I will definately add a second fan but the switch idea is a nice addition too.
I’m going to fabricate a heat shield out of stainless steel since the manifold and turbo are right up against the radiator. The turbo’s exhaust housing, manifold and wastegate generate extreme temperatures. That much heat next to the radiator is bound to raise the coolant temps. I also wanted to use that Hondata intake manifold gasket which is proven to drop the intake temps. The combination of the two should drop the temperature considerably.
Originally posted by gen2teg
[B]This sounds like a good idea. Being able to activate your fan(s) while in traffic when the motor heats up the most, idleing. I will definately add a second fan but the switch idea is a nice addition too.
thanks! [/B]
Ya I have been doing this on the 22RTE & 7MGTE Turbo engines for the 4WD guys for years they really beat the crap out of there engines! If you want to do this here is how it’s done there are 2 ways to wire it.
The honda sending unit (on the back of the block that has 2 male post connectors coming out of it) is a normally open circuit, with one side going to ground the other to the fan relay. When the temp reaches its set point it closes the circuit to turn on the fan.
#1) If you run a wire from one side of your switch to a ground and the other to the output side of the sending unit (or the relay input) you can trigger the fan manually.
#2) You can run 2 wires to the sending unit, attach one wire to each side, run both wires to your new switch and attach so when the switch is off the circuit is open (fan off) and when turned on its closed (fan on)
Thats it your done and the stock sending unit will still trigger the fan!
i would find out why my motor is consuming coolant before i went to go buy a larger radiator. it is not normal to have to refill your coolant resevoir and is usually a sign of water getting past the sleeves or a leaking headgasket. who did your sleeving work?
last I checked the coolant system on Hondas was not a closed system. You don’t need to keep coolant in the “resevoir” because it’s an overflow catch can, not a holding tank for reserve coolant. If there was a cracked cylinder or BHG then coolant would be pushed into the over flow can.
Originally posted by qwkteg125 i would find out why my motor is consuming coolant before i went to go buy a larger radiator. it is not normal to have to refill your coolant resevoir and is usually a sign of water getting past the sleeves or a leaking headgasket. who did your sleeving work?
My sleeve job was done by Leitner Performance. They have been sleeving blocks for a while now.
Originally posted by Haberdasher last I checked the coolant system on Hondas was not a closed system. You don’t need to keep coolant in the “resevoir” because it’s an overflow catch can, not a holding tank for reserve coolant. If there was a cracked cylinder or BHG then coolant would be pushed into the over flow can.
That’s what I’ve always thought, that if you were having problems with your head gasket you would have coolant overflow in the resevoir can. Although im not to sure but shouldn’t you have coolant in there anyway? a little bit atleast?
Originally posted by Haberdasher last I checked the coolant system on Hondas was not a closed system. You don’t need to keep coolant in the “resevoir” because it’s an overflow catch can, not a holding tank for reserve coolant. If there was a cracked cylinder or BHG then coolant would be pushed into the over flow can.
Actually it is a holding tank for reserve coolant!
If you look at your radiator cap there is a metal “plunger” that sits in the middle of the cap. If you take your fingers and pull on it you will notice it opens quite easy! When your cooling system is hot it expands, if it gets to hot it vents !
When it cools it contracts and pulls this valve open and pulls in the coolant it pushed out. If you have no coolant to pull in it sucks air
if the sleeves weren’t installed properly coolant can leak out from the bottom where the sleeves meet the block. this wouldn’t pressurize the cooling system and fill the reservoir like what some of you are describing. also, if your headgasket is leaking & coolant is going into the combustion chamber, this wouldn’t pressurize your system either, but it could cause overheating.
