Originally posted by Eric
no need to remove axles… it’s easy but make sure you use jackstands to support the car!!! I wouldn’t trust the jack especially if I’m under the car!
Or use a lift. Yay for the student auto shop:D
hey i looked for syncromesh friction modifed gear oil, but no dealer seems to have that in stock… the only ones they had was the synthetic gear oil and regular syncromesh… so i choose syncromesh and used that on my car… wow what a big difference it made, my gears are going in like water (really smooth) and my 2nd gear grind when i shift fast, stopped!! there is still a slight grind when i shift at high rpms to 2nd gear but i still have to work in the oil… gm syncromesh is sum good shit!!
Hey Eric… Whats up?
I was advise that a little more fluid than the normal was better, everybody that I know would always squeeze every drop of Oil as much as they can.
To do this, I was taught to have both sides of car raised up equally, go underneath and pop the drain plug and have a low pan catching the fluid while it drains, while it drains, lower the passenger side as low as you can before smashing the oil catcher pan, so the tranny would have a tilt, slope towards the direction draining, in this case, you would get a bit more juice drained. In this process, I believe it doesnt matter. But I do it anyways, dont ask me why…
Raise the car back up equally and go underneath and button-up your drain bolt. Now lower the other side (driverside) all the way down, (I would sometimes have both wheels off to reach the lowest point possible)… with the tranny tilt slanted, it will hold a bit more fluid.
But… I didnt know raising the rear would help to getting more fluid in the tranny… I should try it.
ARCHIVETHIS
Originally posted by VTEC5700rpm
[B]Hey Eric… Whats up?
To do this, I was taught to have both sides of car raised up equally, go underneath and pop the drain plug and have a low pan catching the fluid while it drains, while it drains, lower the passenger side as low as you can before smashing the oil catcher pan, so the tranny would have a tilt, slope towards the direction draining, in this case, you would get a bit more juice drained. In this process, I believe it doesnt matter. But I do it anyways, dont ask me why…
Raise the car back up equally and go underneath and button-up your drain bolt. Now lower the other side (driverside) all the way down, (I would sometimes have both wheels off to reach the lowest point possible)… with the tranny tilt slanted, it will hold a bit more fluid.[/B]
Hey Sou! YOur description sounds like it would work much better than mine. I just found that having the rear a little higher than the front gets a little more than regular.
Hey guys,
I was so curious about this GM Synchromesh Transmission Fluid-Friction Modified, I just had to go out the other day to get 4 quarts, I forget I need only 3 quartz.
Part # 12377916 Fluid List price- $11.23
I purchased at net price- $9.55 X 4=$38.20 + 2.77(tax)
total=$40.97 very expensive, although you dont need the 4th bottle.
My opinion after fluid change… I was not happy…
My 3rd still scratches, grinds, bla bla… but engaging in the other gears felt a bit better.
I understood at the beginning no fluid was to cure my worn synchros… I just thought it would help a bit or even temporaryly.
Give it some time and you should notice some difference. It won’t completely fix your grinding, but it should help it.
a friend of mine said the same thing after he put it in but after a couple of days he said the fluid made the tranny shift very well and less notchy
Changed mine today with this stuff today and I must say it feels smoother already, and its not a psychological thing.
I have nothing to compare to though, cuz i dont know what oil was in my tranny before, but i definetly recommend it 
You guys just have to give the stuff time, I changed mine a month or so ago, and at first it was better, but my reverse still would grind. After a week or so it was going and My transmission feels 70% better than before. I also have a B&M short shifter.
reverse grinds are normal for all B-series honda transmissions. Magic fluid wont even solve the problem
You have to put it in a foward gear (i.e. 1st) then put it in reverse. Something to do with re-setting the synchros
Has anyone else not been able to find the friction modified stuff? I went to 3 decent sized GM dealerships, and none of them even had the friction modified stuff in their catalogs or computers. Also, the price for the regular stuff varied a decent ammount dealership to dealership.
Originally posted by strikeback03
Has anyone else not been able to find the friction modified stuff? I went to 3 decent sized GM dealerships, and none of them even had the friction modified stuff in their catalogs or computers. Also, the price for the regular stuff varied a decent ammount dealership to dealership.
I couldnt find it either, and I live in Canada (if it makes a diff). So i just went with the regular kind. They probably stopped making the friction modified version
Originally posted by J-Spec
[B]reverse grinds are normal for all B-series honda transmissions. Magic fluid wont even solve the problem
You have to put it in a foward gear (i.e. 1st) then put it in reverse. Something to do with re-setting the synchros [/B]
I didn’t know that, well, I put that stuff in and it helps, but I live in California, and All they had was the expensive stuff, not the base. It was around 30 bucks or so for 3 quarts. Maybe someone can send you some of the fluid?
I was told at the dealer that all they had was GM Synchromesh and the regular MTF. I changed my oil about a month ago. It used to have a very nasty grind on third gear at high RPMs. The grind is now gone, and the tranny feels a lot smoother.
Lates.
Originally posted by caliquick_teg
You guys just have to give the stuff time, I changed mine a month or so ago, and at first it was better, but my reverse still would grind. After a week or so it was going and My transmission feels 70% better than before. I also have a B&M short shifter.
it says right in our user manuals, to prevent grinding in reverse shift into another gear first…
Originally posted by caliquick_teg
You guys just have to give the stuff time, I changed mine a month or so ago, and at first it was better, but my reverse still would grind. After a week or so it was going and My transmission feels 70% better than before. I also have a B&M short shifter.
it says right in our user manuals, to prevent grinding in reverse shift into another gear first…
my DSM buddy who’s a mechanic just told me that BG Syncrotech whoops ass on GM Syncromesh, so maybe we should all be gettin that instead???
“BG” ?
Prolly a stupid Q, but I have no clue what that is?