My GOD man, 75w90 is damn near solid grease!!! Get that shit out of there ASAP and run a bottle of Honda MTF through it, then put the drain plug back on and fill it with some Honda MTF or other PROPER Manual Tranny fluid (GM, Honda, etc…).
That 75w90 is likely causing the hard shift into 3rd, etc… as it is VERY thick. Definately not good for your internals, gas mileage, etc…
~Eric
Originally posted by ncollini
So what is the verdict on GM Synchromesh Tranny Fluid. Is it the better choice than redline or hondas mtl…?
Please make suggestions.
Well, I just switched from 5w30 synthetic to GM Syncromesh this weekend, and so far so good! Shifts are smooooth.
If you plan on using motor oil you can’t use just any motor oil.
It has to have a special rating on it that lets you know it’s good for trannies. I’m not talking about the weight like 5w-30. I’m talking about letter ratings. It’s usualy on the back or the bottom front of the bottle. I forgot exactly what the rating was though.
If I remember right most of the names brands are good for trannies too.
I remember my dad went and bought my tranny fluid and he came back with motor oil. I asked him how he knew that would work and he said in their computer it says to use that and it just needs the special letter on there.
BTW, I had a grind and I asked a mechanic to check it out for me while he was doing something else to my car. I had a grind in 4th. Well I got the car back and no grinds! all he did was adjust the clutch.
The grind came back a year later I changed the fluid as mentioned above and it didn’t help. I also tried adjsuting the clutch myself and turned that knob for a while but didn’t know what I was doing and it didn’t seem to change a thing.
i’m using b&M synthetic gear oil 75w-90 and still have grinds in my 2nd gear… downshifting to 3rd is hard to put into gear… it is a jdm j1 tranny supposed to have about 40k miles on it now… anybody know the oil weight on redline mtl, b+g synchroshift, and gm synchromesh?
Did you try using Honda MTF or the proper equivalent BEFORE you stuck that 75W 90 in there? If you haven’t, that would be the first thing you should try, preferably synthetic. Redline MTL is pretty low vicosity, I believe it’s about the same as 10w 30. Theres a bunch of different viscosities, though.
Ryan
Best to so-so… Left being the best…
BTW- from what I’ve tried so far…
With my GSR- I used motor oil way back when and it gave me problems. I swapped it out with the Honda MTF and that took car of my third gear grind…
With my CRX- I just flushed out the old stuff(unknown) when I changed out axles with the Honda MTF. (this was 3 weeks ago before I read about the GM synchromesh) The first and second gear grind went away for the first week and reappeared. I found that I didn’t put enough cause the car wasn’t leveled… I added some more and it went away for a few days and reoccured.
I just flused out the tranny fluid again this past friday and added the GM synchromesh friction modified. The grinding went away until last night. I was going to add more today but had to have dinner with the family…
If you wait til tomorrow I will take some pics as well as to where the drain and fill are on the CRX… similar to the integra… also as to why you should have the car LEVEL!
BTW- The crx gets worked as I drive over 100 miles a day to get to work…
Ohh prices out here in Stockton are as follows.
Honda MTF was about $8 with tax a bottle.
GM Synchromesh was supposed to be $14 a bottle but I got a discount for waiting ($11 a bottle)…
i’m just wondering how you guys flush out your trannies? Midas has a special machine they use that get’s out 99% of the fluid. They told me you can only get out like 50% by just draining it.
Do you fill the entire tranny with that synchromesh thing? Or do you have to mix?
Damn, this is what I call help…!
Yes, Eric I would greatly appreciate the pics. I have to also change my valve cover gasket, so I don’t mind waiting for the pics.
originally posted by scooby_dooby
i’m just wondering how you guys flush out your trannies? Midas has a special machine they use that get’s out 99% of the fluid. They told me you can only get out like 50% by just draining it.
They were probably refering to automatics. Manual trannys don’t retain the fluid like automatics. The reason is that autos use ATF internally for hydraulic fluid to actuate valves and clutches.
If you’ve ever looked inside an automatic you would see that it is like a tiny maze, with hundreds of little passages and parts, all of which hold the fluid in, even when the tranny is drained. Also, the part that transfers power from the engine into the gears, called the torque converter, holds like 30% of the fluid, which must be flushed out or it will stay in.
Comparatively, manual trannys have no internal hydraulics, and use the fluid only for lubrication. When the car is not in operation, the MTF drains back into the pan; ie, the internal parts do not retain the fluid, therfore draining is sufficient.
Ryan
Ok, this is getting kinda silly. Buy new syncros man. No fluid can fix worn out metal parts. Syncros go bad, that is why they grind.
They may cover up the problem but your syncros are still worn out they will only get worse. I guess you could prolong their life and quiet them for a little while but they aren’t going to stop aging because you added some miracle fluid.
JB10,
I think most of us realise that and are only looking for a “band-aid” Not a miracle fluid…
Originally posted by VTEC91
[B]Did you try using Honda MTF or the proper equivalent BEFORE you stuck that 75W 90 in there? If you haven’t, that would be the first thing you should try, preferably synthetic. Redline MTL is pretty low vicosity, I believe it’s about the same as 10w 30. Theres a bunch of different viscosities, though.
Ryan [/B]
i had honda mtf before i swaped it out for the b&M gear oil (it came with my b&m short shifter) i noticed my 2nd gear would grind a lil bit 1 out of 20 times when i had the honda mtf… now it grinds if i shift to fast in 2nd gear… guess i’ma try the gm gear oil…
Jon- you replace it completely. I haven’t mixed them but I’ve read some posts where they did… I think it’s just better to stick to one thing… different oil weights might not pan out as well. but that’s just speculation…
I’ll take some pics of how to change your valve cover gasket as well… I’ll take it on my gsr since it is just sitting there…:sleep:
cool…!
I finished up the job tonight… just added a few more squirts… definatly more will fit if the car is tilted forward… back end higher than the front… here are a few pics…
You’ll need one of these:
Use like this to pump the fluid into the tranny… I do it from the bottom of the car. Easier to see if the fluid is starting to drip out…
You will also need these: (17mm wrench and a 1/4 wratchet)
17mm for the fill and the wratchet 1/4 nub for the drain.
Here are the bolts… the green is the fill and the red is the drain… taken from the passengerside front… (THIS IS FROM A CRX!) very similar to the DA.
Make sure the car is level when filling…
Nice pics dude!
Here is a shot of the bolts to remove from the valve cover to change the gasket… this is from a b17 cover… it’s kinda hard to see but I circled the bolts… also the hose to the intake and the ground wire have to be removed…
Make sure you clean off the surface where the new gasket is going to go on… don’t mar it or indent it though… have fun.
Eric, Is it as easy as it looks to gain access to the drain and fill bolts? I don’t need to remove the axles do I?
It’s easy from underneath. It’s impossible from above (at least it you have ABS it is…). However, if you’re getting it from underneath, you’ll want to make sure the back of the car is raised as much as the front so it stays level.
no need to remove axles… it’s easy but make sure you use jackstands to support the car!!! I wouldn’t trust the jack especially if I’m under the car!