So I can keep my larger 1" MC by just using the prop valve and making new lines?
I plan to swap to 5 lug around the same time.
[QUOTE=G2 Racer;1917980]So I can keep my larger 1" MC by just using the prop valve and making new lines?
I plan to swap to 5 lug around the same time.[/QUOTE]
All you need is:
- 4040 prop valve
- brake lines which run across the firewall on a non-abs integra
- brake line flaring tool
There will be two small (4-6") lines you will make from your old ones, and you’ll need to cut one of the fittings from the non-abs lines and install the correct fitting from your abs lines.
It’s a very easy swap, just be sure to practice w/ the flaring tool a couple times on scrap until you get the hang of it. And read through this thread again, I think there’s some more detailed info. Actualy it’d probably be nice if someone did a real write-up. There have been some half assed attempts but iirc nothing comprehensive with good photos.
I will be tackling this very soon on my car. I’m going to the local U-Pull it to get the brake lines. I will be doing this the same day I’m installing my Type-R intake manifold and Type R brake booster so that should make the conversion a little easier.
Post pics please.
Thanks Colin.
[QUOTE=Colin;1918044]All you need is:
- 4040 prop valve
- brake lines which run across the firewall on a non-abs integra
- brake line flaring tool
There will be two small (4-6") lines you will make from your old ones, and you’ll need to cut one of the fittings from the non-abs lines and install the correct fitting from your abs lines.
It’s a very easy swap, just be sure to practice w/ the flaring tool a couple times on scrap until you get the hang of it. And read through this thread again, I think there’s some more detailed info. Actualy it’d probably be nice if someone did a real write-up. There have been some half assed attempts but iirc nothing comprehensive with good photos.[/QUOTE]
I’m more then willing to do a good write up with photos but it’ll be a while till I do this.
That and I can’t afford to have my car down.
Where do I get the prop valve from?
Just get a used one, look here, ebay, Honda-tech… it should say 4040 on it, it’s stock for DA’s w/o abs, as well as some other Hondas. Standard going rate is about $40-$50 shipped (which I feel is overpriced). You can probably find it cheaper at a junk yard.
Ok I got the prop valve. does anyone have those adapters already modded. Also do you have to extend the rear lines to reach the prop. I started to pull the lines out of a non abs DA, should I do that or use my abs lines?
I used the 1" master cylinder and just made a splice in the non abs and abs lines (so that I have a non abs line with 12m fitting at the m/c) going from proportioning valve to the master cylinder. Works great and didn’t cost me a dime for the conversion (spair parts). For the rear extensions I used pieces and fittings from the scrap abs lines.
Man I had a heck of a time trying to get that adapter fitting to seal. I drilled two different ones, and they both were leaking. So I just had a new line made with the original fittings for $10 yesterday.
Adapter? You mean the 10-12 adapter for the abs master cylinder? I couldn’t find one so I spliced the lines of the abs and non abs so that it reused the 12 fitting from the original line.
Yea the 10-12 adapter. I had to modify it to fit the master and I just couldn’t get it to seal not matter what I tried. So I just used the fittings off of the stock lines and had a line made for $10, now it’s leak free and I can hit the track this weekend, weather permitting :rockon:
Nice, that is pretty much what I did.
anyone ever use a manual prop valve instead of the OEM one?
I did the conversion today and I must say this was a walk in the park. I don’t know why people go through the hassle of looking for that conversion piece for.
I used a dremel to cut of the old flare slide out the old fitting made the line straight slide on the 12mm fitting and re flared the line. Also to make the two lines for the rear calipers was also cake.
[QUOTE=b16da9;1957249]I did the conversion today and I must say this was a walk in the park. I don’t know why people go through the hassle of looking for that conversion piece for.
I used a dremel to cut of the old flare slide out the old fitting made the line straight slide on the 12mm fitting and re flared the line. Also to make the two lines for the rear calipers was also cake.[/QUOTE]
uh huh… i hope u practiced well enuff…
Got one from the yard today for free.
Gonna get the MC fittings when I go back next week.
If I’ve got the MC fittings and the 4040 prop fittings, will I need to make any custom lines?
[QUOTE=G2 Racer;1970800]Got one from the yard today for free.
Gonna get the MC fittings when I go back next week.
If I’ve got the MC fittings and the 4040 prop fittings, will I need to make any custom lines?[/QUOTE]
have you tried reading the thread? cause the answer is on page 7
[QUOTE=thelusiv;1669408]RedStarGsr: The hard rear brake lines that are already on the car go from the rear brakes (duh) to just inside the firewall in the engine bay, where they screw into a connector. I removed the connector so the rear brake lines could screw into the female end of the extension hoses.
BLKACK1: I have two more fittings if you want one. They’re not drilled though, you could do that yourself.
I set up this diagram from the second photo I took, because it would have saved me a ton of time searching and reading and studying my car and others’ photos, if I had had it when the project started. Whenever I get around to doing a write-up on this, I’ll include the diagram with it.
[/QUOTE]
This is the finished product of my conversion, I’m going on two months without a problem after the swap. Also my brakes feel a lot better and I no longer have the spongy feel.
D’OH. I missed that.
Any one know where to get stainless braided brake lines and fittings for this? Chase bays is using some sort of nylon line for their kits but I’m not to sure of that nor can I find it. Thanks.