ok so i gotta b18b1.
the oil ring on the number one cylinder is broke i think…
compression test revealed that number one cylinder was lower than the rest.
or it could be a valve seal guide… I dont know.
BUt…
i bought new rings
new headgasket
acl rod bearings
acl main bearings
and i really want to go boost and i have some money now so.
my question is.
should i save up the money…
and buy some arp rod bolts and head studs…
or will stock ones be ok???
i want reliability but want boost too what should i do???
and please explain to me what the machine shop has to do to put in arp rod bolts…
maybe even pics…
thanks a lot
i Know this has been covered a thousand times but i dont understand what they do to the rods…
this came off of a nissan 300zx i think…
but it has an internal wastgate set to 7 psi i was told…
which is the oil inlet and outlet?
I think the last pic is the inlet but im not sure…
what is a really loud BOV that does not cost an arm and a leg?
last pic is inlet.
also, the ebay RFL (really f*ing loud) is fairly cheap and loud as hell.
The ebay one is a TurboXS knockoff.
In my personal opinion. do the arp head and rod bolts if ur boosting. i dont trust oem when it comes to boost. as far as bolts go that is. as for bearings and the like i will never do anything other than oem on a honda. acl’s tend to be the wrong size and such but thats just MY opinion.
how am i supposed to hook up an outlet to the oilpan in the 3rd pic.
Read the G2IC turbo guide.
If you have, you missed and need to read it again.
Are you ever at the bridge downtown?
Also,
You take an oil tap. Normally like the oilfilter,
and then run it to the inlet.
and then trun the outlet from the bottom of the turbo
to the oil pan right below it/
Def read the g2ic turbo guide. 
Goodluck with everything.
http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
Here is the link to the turbo guide mentioned above.
Also, I’ll attach a pic of the item you need to connect the outlet to the oil pan.
where can i get that ^^^^^
anywhere that sells turbo parts.
just make sure the person drilling/tapping your oil pan has at least SOME experience, and pass it through a parts washer for at least 20-30 minutes after the drilling/tapping is done so that you get all the shavings out.
another option is to have someone weld a threaded fitting (“bung”) into the oil pan itself, but that can be quite the hassle. done right, the above option is less difficult and just as effective.
i would need two of those right???
one for the oil pan, and one for the third picturetp put on the turbo…
and then just run a braided lie to both and the oil return is taken care of…
You buy that kit as posted above. You also have to clock your turbo to make sure that feed line is on the top and drain is on the bottom.
Then you drill a hole in your oil pan and weld either a piece of tube or the fitting supplied in the kit.
Here is a pic to give you an idea
