I don’t remember it being that simple. It’s been a while but I remember it being a pain cuz there’s metal behind there. I’ve done it, I was just wondering why I haven’t seen any in a post like this
i didnt know about any metal behind there if any… hmmmm…
if so that probly why no pics of them here like you mentioned. but from what i know about tweeters is that they are supposed to be aimed as directly straight to you as possible. guess it comes down to your personal taste of sq. oh wells mine werk for me =).
Originally posted by Speeddaddy
but from what i know about tweeters is that they are supposed to be aimed as directly straight to you as possible.
Not necessarily. Most situations warrant having one or both tweeters aimed off-axis (not directly at the listener) to provide a balanced, non-time-shifted sound. Mane time-phase anomalies can be attributed to improper tweeter aiming, and by having swivel tweeters (a great investment), one can continually adjust the tweeter until the desired position is achieved.
You’d be surprised how much a very tiny change in angle or direction of the tweeter, can cange the sound. 
~Eric
WTF is a time-phase anomalie ???
fawkin curls ya done lost my audio-noob ass … again LOL
LOL, sorry.
time-phase anomalies are when the sound is not centered, and sound slike the same ound is coming from 2 different points at different times. Like a “lag” on one side of the car (mainly due to the passenger side tweeters being further from your ear, hence making the sound not hit your ears at the smae time.)
Kickpanels help alleviate this, by lowering the difference in path length. Having tweeters and midrange speakers in the kickpanel locations (far forward, down low, aimed towards the opposite listeners’ head) is the best way to avoid this as percentage-wise, the path lengths are almost equal. you’d be surprised how “high and up-front” kickpanels can sound. It’s really amazing that the sound seems like it’s coming from on top of the car hood, and not from your feet. 
~Eric
PS: This is why I put my tweeters just above the midrange in the stock locations… it’s close to the kickpanel locations without the need to fabricate kickpanels from fiberglass and sacrifice valuable legroom (I’m 6’2" tall, all legs)
Originally posted by curls
[B]Not necessarily. Most situations warrant having one or both tweeters aimed off-axis (not directly at the listener) to provide a balanced, non-time-shifted sound. Mane time-phase anomalies can be attributed to improper tweeter aiming, and by having swivel tweeters (a great investment), one can continually adjust the tweeter until the desired position is achieved.
You’d be surprised how much a very tiny change in angle or direction of the tweeter, can cange the sound.
~Eric [/B]
Agreed.
Although it is user preference, I still suggest keeping the tweeter near the midrange. As said earlier, there will be less seperation issues in the imaging, a lot less combing of the frequency response, and less off axis dip at the crossover frequency.
Why not put them down with the mids? Your distances will be more aligned, as will what Eric said above. This means a better front image.
The way I see it, there are too many benifits from putting them down there. Remember that install is the most important part of any stereo system. Poor install can make the best equipment sound bad, while a good install can make crappy equipment sound pretty decent.
Originally posted by Steven Kephart
Remember that install is the most important part of any stereo system. Poor install can make the best equipment sound bad, while a good install can make crappy equipment sound pretty decent.
:werd:
My basic philosophy with car stereo is 90% install, 10% equipment.
Crappy equipment (albeit not JUNK equipment) can be made to sound better with a good install, than almost any “good” equipment in a crappy install.
~Eric
I must say, the height of my front stage is pretty good. Also, by using simple rear fill I dont get that overpowering “sitting backwards at the movies” kinda sound.
When the speakers aren’t installed all that well you tend to be able to ‘locate’ the speakers with your ears, ie. tweeters in front of you, loud mids behind you, hollow mids in front, and sub in the back.
Its not perfect, but I can say that if I close my eyes in the car (dont do it while you drive) it all sounds pretty well matched.
Balance is the key.
I’m far from an audiophile and just upgraded stock blown speakers with some cheap Clarion components found off the parts trader. I’d rather have flush mount, but am glad I don’t have huge holes in the doors if I ever decide to downgrade by not having components.
Mounted on the door, just below the vents and side mirrors:
Originally posted by mojoGSR92
[B]I’m far from an audiophile and just upgraded stock blown speakers with some cheap Clarion components found off the parts trader. I’d rather have flush mount, but am glad I don’t have huge holes in the doors if I ever decide to downgrade by not having components.
Mounted on the door, just below the vents and side mirrors:
[/B]
For my 90GS hatch, I mounted my tweeters inside where the window switches would be. Being identical in shape (as opposed to a 4 door GS), I shaped/holed out light thin wood covered with black speaker cloth to serve as speaker covers…tweeters were mounted on similar wood. As you can see from the pic above, they are angled quite nicely to both passengers. I then used internally lit window switches from a late 80’s 3-series BMW (my favorite) and installed them on both sides of the gearbox. (Figuring out the BMW switch wiring diagram was a bitch to do since they do not come with markings…btw, you lose auto window down) So far, I think I’m the only one who has done this…did this back in '92. The key to this was finding the best (looking and functioning) window switches for the job.
BTW, I mounted the crossovers inside the dash near the entry point of the wiring harness from their respective doors…this is to avoid shocking/damaging them from doors being open and closed (slammed) over time. And, I snaked through 8 to 10 (i forgot it’s been a while) new wires from each door through the existing black rubber hose protector. They inlclude: 2 tweeter wires, 2 midrange wires, 2 power door lock actuator wires (90 GS has no power doorlocks), 3 or 4 wires for the window switch (the stock connector still attached if need to switch later).
I installed these a long time ago when I didn’t know a whole lot about car audio. They look awesome, but since they are in the center of the car and so close together, they kill the “stereo Seperation”, so I’m posting this as info. NOT a reccomendation.
1integra,
That looks like one nightmare installation for me to attempt…pulling out the dash to bracket the tweeters in place and running the wires. However, you did a great job from the looks of the pic…that is an awesome way to get center channel sound for the full 3D effect. Coupled with full tweet/mids door speakers, it would be wicked. You would just need a center channel output crossover to make it all tie together nicely.
I always wondered about using that dash indent fronting your tweeters in the pic as another place to install a 4-1/2" midbass and 1" tweeter. Then fashioning a speaker cover using speaker cloth covered wood or shapeable foam to flush it in flat or maybe a slight sloping rise on all sides.
volks---->
ive looked at runnin speaker wires into the doors. can u elaborate more on what u did to bypass the stock harness/adapter that connects into the door and body?
thx
c
Originally posted by D_E_T_O_X
[B]volks---->
ive looked at runnin speaker wires into the doors. can u elaborate more on what u did to bypass the stock harness/adapter that connects into the door and body?
thx
c [/B]
thats how i have mine. its jus a harness that disconnects if you want to pin them. but you can simply run the wire inside of the rubber housing where the rest of the wires are. jus take off the oem elec. tape and pull the two rubber pieces apart from the middle.
Originally posted by D_E_T_O_X
[B]volks---->
ive looked at runnin speaker wires into the doors. can u elaborate more on what u did to bypass the stock harness/adapter that connects into the door and body?
thx
c [/B]
There is space alongside the existing wires in the rubber tubing that connects between the door and body…enough space that I could run 8-10 wires varying from 14-16 gauge. I used a flexible snake device, but you could use a wire hanger. I used electrical tape to tightly fasten the wire ends to the end of the snake I will be pushing through. If I recall, I pushed the wires from the door’s end until it popped through under the dash area. You may need to feel the wires along the rubber tubing while doing this. Also, look at the wires that enter the rubber grommet in the door…you can either cut out a small hole to let your new wires through or just stretch out the seal on the existing wires for space.
HTH
Originally posted by volkscura
[B]1integra,
That looks like one nightmare installation for me to attempt…pulling out the dash to bracket the tweeters in place and running the wires. However, you did a great job from the looks of the pic…that is an awesome way to get center channel sound for the full 3D effect. Coupled with full tweet/mids door speakers, it would be wicked. You would just need a center channel output crossover to make it all tie together nicely.
I always wondered about using that dash indent fronting your tweeters in the pic as another place to install a 4-1/2" midbass and 1" tweeter. Then fashioning a speaker cover using speaker cloth covered wood or shapeable foam to flush it in flat or maybe a slight sloping rise on all sides. [/B]
Unless you are putting surround sound complete with Dolby processing, I highly recomend not doing that. A center speaker is a band aid for poorly installed speakers. And even then, the way to do it right is with a midrange, cutting off the lows and highs. Plus it should be level set almost inaudible. High frequencies located there will throw off your imaging quite a bit. Remember that our music is STEREO, which utilizes two channels. Adding more channels will degrade the stereo experience.
Originally posted by Steven Kephart
Unless you are putting surround sound complete with Dolby processing, I highly recomend not doing that. A center speaker is a band aid for poorly installed speakers. And even then, the way to do it right is with a midrange, cutting off the lows and highs. Plus it should be level set almost inaudible. High frequencies located there will throw off your imaging quite a bit. Remember that our music is STEREO, which utilizes two channels. Adding more channels will degrade the stereo experience.
True, but I like FRONT IMAGING better like at a rock concert…plus having the setup with the 4-1/2 (maybe even smaller) is pretty much producing midrange anyways…I mistyped using mid-bass. Then again, it’s not like our Integras are near sound proof high luxury cars where you can really appreciate every subtle gain or slope change between the 20’s
Originally posted by volkscura
[B]1integra,
That looks like one nightmare installation for me to attempt…pulling out the dash to bracket the tweeters in place and running the wires. However, you did a great job from the looks of the pic…that is an awesome way to get center channel sound for the full 3D effect. Coupled with full tweet/mids door speakers, it would be wicked. You would just need a center channel output crossover to make it all tie together nicely.
I always wondered about using that dash indent fronting your tweeters in the pic as another place to install a 4-1/2" midbass and 1" tweeter. Then fashioning a speaker cover using speaker cloth covered wood or shapeable foam to flush it in flat or maybe a slight sloping rise on all sides. [/B]
Actually, I didn’t have to remove the dash. I just popped out the clock and had access to everything I needed.
The only problem I ran into was on the right tweeter. The Defrost duct is right behind it and there was not enough clearance behind the tweeter, so I had to cut a hole in the duct… I now have an “air cooled” tweeter 
Originally posted by Speeddaddy
thats how i have mine. its jus a harness that disconnects if you want to pin them. but you can simply run the wire inside of the rubber housing where the rest of the wires are. jus take off the oem elec. tape and pull the two rubber pieces apart from the middle.
Hellllllllllll no! Don’t do that…
There is really only one way to do it properly, drill out the “unused part” of the molex plug.
Go to www.team-integra.net and check out their articles, tells you how to do it. I did this and it really wasn’t as hard as it looks (still a pain in the ass though, I used 12 gauge) and it’s perfect. prefect fit, the molex locks together and all seals fit like they are supposed to. BUT if you have a four door with power windows you can’t do it cause the drivers side molex is all used up!
i forgot about team integra…even had an account there…
G2 is a better resource for our cars though
good look on the install for that, i just got some real power to my components this weekend, now ill get the x-overs outta the doors
thx
c