nope no a/c, if i didn’t modify the wastegate arm to face that direction i could easily run a/c still. i still can if i get rid or reroute my dumptube. but i don’t need it.
>>>>>>Tchleung, how much would your friend charge to duplicate your piping?<<<<<<<<
BLaCkNiNjA92, frickin nice!
I assume you didn’t have to trim the webbing off the block either uh?
What’s type of turbo is that? What are the specs? What type of power are you making with that setup? What is your redline?
Sorry for all the questions…inquiring minds want to know.
-ronie.
help??
I have a B18 with obd0 in my 91 integra gs. I was wondering how you guys tune a turbo setup with obd0.
Most of us are converted to OBD1… You can tune OBD0 with TurboEdit and I’m sure couple other progs, but support for OBD1 is just greater.
[QUOTE=db2;1798409]
BLaCkNiNjA92, frickin nice!
I assume you didn’t have to trim the webbing off the block either uh?
What’s type of turbo is that? What are the specs? What type of power are you making with that setup? What is your redline?
Sorry for all the questions…inquiring minds want to know.
-ronie.[/QUOTE]
sup ronie,
nope i didn’t have to shave the block, the turbo is a turbonetics t3/t04e .63 AR. I don’t know how much power I’m making. Haven’t taken her in for tuning yet. I just want around 350whp and i don’t think it should be hard at all w/ my setup. when i was tuned when it was NA, it stopped making power around 7500rpms. we’ll see where the redline will be after she gets tuned.
-Jimmy
Sry I musta missed that. I asked him and he’s not interested in maknig copies as he’s pretty busy with things as is. 
to bad i’d pay good money for that piping setup :bawl:
Tchleung - you realized your friend would make bank if he were to duplicate the custom piping and sell it to us… looks hella nice!!
Also, how thick is the piping he customed?? Would a thin one suffice? Say like the piping of an intake tube?
That’s it . I’m tired of seeing turbo kits and having to remove the A/C . Next month im going to start fabbing a turbo kit for cars with A/C . But the only thing that will need to move is the battery .I will make so much cash off this . :excite:
I know, unfortunantly he’s just way too busy. He is a welder at an airport currently. I forget the guage SS he used, but it’s quite thin. It’s the same stuff he uses to make lightweight exhaust systems. Plus, not many guys run the piping like I do. I’ve drilled a 2.5" hole into the body where the AC pulley would be, sorta.
Tchleung
Is there any additional benefit to running your BOV where you have it? If so, what is it?
In my case, it was to get rid of clutter in the engine bay, and also whatever BOV I had, whatever vacuum source, whatever size line I had I would have BOV surging in the usual spot 12" from the TB until I moved it to pre intercooler. The BOV in the enw spot reacts much much faster and sounds alot better as well. The technical arguement point I’ve found is it’s better to release the “hot” side of the air, rather then the “cool” side of the air withteh conventional position.
Tchleung - you are my hero and a dick at the same time cuz your setup looks badass! :rockon: Wish I can see that shit in person…
Thanks! 
My new 15’s arrived today, time to put the meats on them hehe
That sucks about not being able to get the piping made, but thanks for the closing.
sweet stuff<3
Looks like I should try this… I had a Type-RS knock-off and a real SSQV and both would give me a bit of surge before releasing pressure. I also tried different size of vac hoses and different ports on the manifold.
It’s gonna be a PITA to make the switch but might be worth it. What port on the IM are you using?
Trust me you’ll love it way more pre-intercooler. Before mines would always be slightly open at cruise and cosntantly whistle and make weird noises, now that I have it where it is now, it doesn’t do it anymore. since I have the Victor X manifold, I am running a 1/4" ID vacuum line directly off the back of the intake manifold plenum. I changed the Greddy fitting to allow the 1/4" line. Although I must say, my BOV is NOT 100% out of the box. I modified it as, most people know, Greddy BOV’s leak. My Type S would leak pressure out of the outlet anything about 14 psi when I did a pressure test. Once I disasembled it, I found the obvious reason, and Greddy’s ultimate design flaw, when the top hat would become pressurized, this pressure would sneak around the rubber diaphram and leak through this big cylindrical base which had no physical seal between it and the outer body other then a tight tolerance. So I siliconed it all up, blocked off the other 1/8" NPT fitting on the side and did another boost leak test. Having my compressor set to make the system hold 14psi before with the leaky bov, was now at 18psi. The BOV was leaking 4psi much. The more boost, the more it was leaking, I just used 14psi before as a base point. But anyways, enough about me rambling… lol.
Updated…
what kind of rad is that? i’m looking for a nice aluminum half rad. brand name and price if u don’t mind. thanks!