pictures pictures pictures...as requested

People have been asking for pictures for a few months. I finally got them taken…


Moroso catch can with PCV valve on top. The PCV system is neccesary to keep from blowing your piston rings. By using the catch can you can seperate more crap out of the system before it goes back into the intake.


There are 2 small pipes in the intake pipe pre-turbo, one is facing into the air flow, one away. The hose seen here on the intake pipe is the one facing into the air flow, it goes into the nipple on the vlave cover. The hose going into the can is from the crank case where the OE PCV valve normaly is.


External oil filter, WIX 51515 Ford Mustang Oil Filter


MSD fuel pump and the Crane LX 91 coil mounted where the OE fuel filter bolts to the fire wall. The fuel filter (K&N) is now inline.


2 of the hoses for the reworked PCV system. Can also see the Missing Link check valve.


Profile shot of engine bay. Please excuse the zip-ties on the spark plug wires, they’re a work in progress.


Vortech FMU 10:1 ratio, fuel pressure gauge in fuel rail, you can also see the B&M fuel pressure regulator hiding behind the strut bar.


Permacool 12" High Performance Electric Fan (1650cfm), and Permacool 10" Standard Electric Fan (900cfm).


Tial 35mm wastegate and HKS VBC. The wastegate has a bypass pipe coming out of the bottom of it that is plumbed back into the exhaust system.


Sorry about the crappy lighting.


Interior shot. I like the Sparco steering wheel :slight_smile: Note turbo timer where change tray used to be and radio head unit in glove box.


Gauge panel with autometer oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, and AF gauges. Apex SAFC in center console. Note the switches where the ash tray used to be. Momo Cobra shift knob too.


Crane Cams HI-6 ignition box. Out of the way, dry, and easily accesable to change rev limit.


MTX Thunder 6000 12" sub with MTX amp in a false floor. Like the enclosure for the tool box?


No more back seat, no more passengers to slow me down.


External master shut off switch and Moroso battery box.


External master shut off switch and Moroso battery box.


Tried to get a shot of how the bumper support has to be cut to fit a front mount intercooler.

More details at http://www.beesandgoats.com/integraover.html

Any questions?

Damn! :shock:

:cool: :bow: :smiley:

where does the tube coming from the pcv valve lead? not to the intake pre-turbo i hope…it should be hooked back upto your manifold as it needs vacuum to open the internal check valve & draw in the filtered crankcase vapors from the catchcan. why do you have two tubes on your intake pre-turbo anyways?

Well color me impressed. Professional looking set up you have there HaberDasher. I never would have known without the pictures, but I’m glad I saw them. Nice vehicle. :wink:

sonnava bitch! thats a nice ride!!! no noe can steal your head unit now!! all u gotta do is lock the glovey!!!i like! its just hard fo ryou to get to the deck unless you have a remote…

Here’s a diagram I just threw together:

Yes the tube from the PCV valve in the top of the catch can is going to the intake pre-turbo (it’s the only place there is vacuum under all intake conditions). If it didn’t the crank case wouldn’t be under vacuum when the intake was under boost, when it is most important the the crank case be under vacuum. If the tube from the PCV valve in the top of the catch can went into the intake manifold the PCV valve would close when under boost, shutting down the PCV system and cause damage to the piston rings.

Very nice HaberDasher … finishing touches everywhere. Noticed you are running stock cams … what made you retain them? What kind of power are you putting down now?

And how long did it take you to put together this turbo setup? (in terms of research).

BlueG2: yup…it’s got a remote…life is good…

After the car got broken into in November I made a lot of changes inside the car to make it more secure. Here’s an old pic of the interior:

All of this was ripped out and my sub box with amp were taken as well. They left the head unit, SAFC, and ignition box (go figure). They tried to get the tach out too but it’s bolted into the frame of the A piller :slight_smile:

Over winter break I did a lot of work putting everything back together and making it more secure. I now have 7 keys for my car and it takes a good 5 minutes to unlock and uncover it in the morning and lock and cover it at night (no kidding).

Originally posted by redlineintegra
Very nice HaberDasher … finishing touches everywhere. Noticed you are running stock cams … what made you retain them? What kind of power are you putting down now?

I’d assume since most aftermarket cams run too much overlap for a turbo to be effective. Most NA cams blow the charged air straight out into the exhaust stream. I’ll let him answer though…shutting mouth

redlineintegra: There is only one company that I know of that is making a worth while turbo cam: Web Cams. I may investigate it’s potential in the future.

The car is getting 230hp/210ft-lbs torque at the wheels on 11 psi of boost. It’s not tuned very aggressively and with only a SAFC to tune it I’m not going to try my luck too much and try to coax more power out of it. The max hp is being severly limited by the stock rev limiter. You can see on the dyno chart the power curve hits a block wall right at the rev limit. It’s insane how quick the motor tears through 1st and 2nd gears. I can’t imagine what it would be like with a VTEC tranny and it’s close gear ratios…Here’s a current dyno:

.

Research took about 2 years for the turbo system before I decided on what I wanted to get. I talked to several different builders, talked with turbo honda owners, and read magazines before I came up with this setup.

:shock: :wink:

i’m not sure the intake air being ingested by the motor is enough vacuum to vent out that pcv system. if so, then people would just run a tube connected from the factory oil separator box to a slash cut tube mounted in the exhaust & forego a catch can setup all together. the fact is, even the high velocity speeds of the exhaust doesn’t generate enough vacuum.

and if it did work, it’s not too good for the compressor to ingest oily vapors from the catch can.

but if the system works for you, then

pretty clean engine bay btw, i’m sure many people on the board appreciate your pictures.

Nice clean setup! Makes me want to move to the darkside too!

It’d probably be worse with a vtec tranny if you’re tearing thru 1st and 2nd really fast already.

Great car.

Wow thats nice. What mods have you done to your bottomend (pistons, rods & compression)? Do you have any head porting? I am in the process right now of completing my custom turbokit and any advice or concerns you may have would be greatly appreciated.Boy I hope mine comes out looking and performing like yours.:stuck_out_tongue:

originally posted by qwkteg125
[B]
it’s not too good for the compressor to ingest oily vapors from the catch can.

[/B]

I was thinking the same thing.:shy:

Haberdasher, have you dynoed the car at, maybe, 15 or 16 p.s.i.?

I don’t know what to say… I am in awe :drool: :drool: :drool:

WOW… No corners cut no pennies pinched… One question. what oil filter relocation kit is that? I’ve been looking for one cut can’t find one. Maybe I’m just blind. I found some universal ones but didn’t get to check the threads on our car… Could you help me out? Also the lines as well… Are those earl’s fittings and lines you used? Thanks!

qwkteg125 and AMERIKAN:

Yes the intake air is enough to vent out the pcv system. And yes people have run the pcv outlet to the exhaust, but that is more complicated to implement for obvious reasons. There is plenty of velocity for this system to work, it works under the same principles as the OE pcv system. This is the only way the system will work when under boost. There is a minimum of oil vapors going from the catch can to the intake charge. That’s what the catch can (and the baffeling inside) is for, it seperates out the vapor. What ever is left in the air charge has no effect on the compressor.

This system works very well. In about 2 months the the catch can had 1" of crap in the bottom of it.

Most people (FI or NA) don’t run their pcv systems. They disconnect them and use those little K&N filters on the valve cover thinking it gives them more power or something. These people are destroying their piston rings.

AMERIKAN

No I havn’t dynoed at ~15psi. I’m not going to risk it running with just a SAFC for EM.

Eric:
The oil filter relocation kit is pieced together from universal parts. And yes they are earl’s fittings and lines. I get all of my universal stuff at Baker Precision (www.bakerprecision.com) in Signal Hill, CA (near Long Beach). Give them a call and ask for a spin on adapter for a Honda (20mm x 1.5) and they’ll know what you need. They have the rest of the parts you’ll need to.

Update: I just looked on their website and they are selling a “Honda Oil Filter Relocation Kit”. But the are only offering it with rubber lines. There are a lot of different oil filter bases to chose from. Decide where you want to put the filter and then get the appropriate base with the ports facing in the right direction. You can piece together a better kit from the universal stuff they sell than the one they are offering.

Everyone: Thanks for the props…I appreciate it :smiley: