I´m from Finland and have one of the only G2 Integras in here. I have turboed it and got 303hp of it with 12psi. Now my third cylinder seems to be broken and I´m planning to build the whole motor again from the beginning. I have had an 2,5" aluminum piping and intercooler, T3/T4 turbo, Tial style 38mm wastegate and 525cc injectors, 3 bar GM map, and everything adjusted with Crome. That engine hasn´t been opened so I have the stock pistons and rods, head gasket, head bolts etc.
Now I´m planning to build it to last. This is what I thought:
Wiseco pistons (size?)
Eagle rods
3" aluminum piping & intercooler
bigger turbo (?)
bigger wastegate (?)
headers that has a place to a bigger wastegate instead of 38mm (?)
Bosch 1000cc injectors
ARP head studs
ACL bearings
all new seals and gaskets
What else should I buy and what do you think of those that I listed?
What should the bore size be if I´m planning to make 450-600hp from the engine? Is 81,5mm enough or should I do it 84mm? If I do it 84mm should the engine (block) be somehow made stronger? How about the wastegate? How far does 38mm last? And how far does that T3/T4 (chinese) turbo last? Should I buy something else like ITR oil pump or something like that? How about the block guard, is it worth it? Suggest me something.
Tell me your suggestions how to make power so that the car isn´t broken whole the time, but not spending tens of thousands to it, rather no-name brands which are proven to be ok instead of paying double prices only for the brands, if u know what I mean. Thanks for your answers, I appreciate your opinions a lot!!!
Here´s a photo of my previous dyno pull a year ago.
what motor are you running? b16, 18a, 18c, 17? as far as making 450+ hp, you need to have your block sleeved. it won’t hold up. as far and Chinese stuff, there are very few knock offs that are as good as the name brand. i’ve had several of both, the statement is true, you get what you pay for. as far as turbo, t3/t4 is not going to be big enough to get you the numbers your looking for. also, is this car going to be a daily driver?
Hah, I forgot the most important. Engine is JDM B16A. It has been a daily driver, but it seems that it becomes more and more only a toy which I take out of the garage only when it´s shining or at weekends to go to have a little fun. Sometimes to strip and so on…
Maybe it would be make sense more to keep it in this situation? 300+ hp would be quite sure to work fine and my current setup works fine for a bit more also if needed. More boost pressure would still be in my mind… Hard to decide what to do. It would be so easy to make it stronger now when I have to tear it apart anyway. It´s kind of a hard situation to me to see that much work and build it again with the same setup having no hp gain to earlier situation. Of course changing setup costs more money, but working hours are about the same and doing same things twice is something that I hate the most. That´s why it would be best to make decisions now and not to regret those decisions afterwards…
well, if you stay under 350whp, then you will be ok with just a block guard and it sounds like your current turbo will make it with about 15, 16lbs of boost. if its only a 50 trim you’ll max your turbo out around 18lbs. as everything else goes, make sure the machine shop see that everything is in order and run a block guard at the very least and if your keeping it for around town as a driver, i wouldn’t lower my compression ration lower than 9.5:1. stock on that engine is 10.2:1 or 10.4:1 depending on which b16 you have. but 9.5 to 10 is a good number if your only going to make 350. now for 500+, its not going to be a in town friendly car to drive. you would have to lower your cp ration to 8.5:1 or so and get your block sleeved (about $1500 to $2000 just for the sleeving) and run a lot of nice things in there and a huge turbo
ok, I bought a week ago a built B16A2 block with Eagle 4340 camshaft, Eagle H-beam rods, SRP 9,0:1 pistons, Cometic head gasket, ACL Race bearings etc. etc. We´ll put it first to the car and drive a bit with it, and then going to buy 1000cc injectors and raise the boost pressure and see what is it going to give out. Next, if not enough, I have to buy larger turbo, I think…
If you want to make 450+ then it would be a good idea to sleeve. 83MM would be good enough as if anything were to go wrong you could just re-sleeve it and do 84mm.
I would use:
83MM Wesico Pistons or CP.
Eagle Rods, Pauter Rods, or Mainly Turbo Tuff Rods (Pauter and Mainly are a bit pricey, but worth the money IMO)
Garrett GT3076r (one of the best street turbos out there)
Tial 44MM Wastegate.
Precision 1000cc injectors (the good thing about the bosh is that they idle like the stock injectors. IMO, you don’t need to pay that much more. Some people may flame me, but that’s what I think.
ACL Bearings.
ARP Headstuds.
Precision 600 whp intercooler. You do not need 3’ intercooler piping.
[QUOTE=Spoolin 30R;2047477]If you want to make 450+ then it would be a good idea to sleeve. 83MM would be good enough as if anything were to go wrong you could just re-sleeve it and do 84mm.
I would use:
83MM Wesico Pistons or CP.
Eagle Rods, Pauter Rods, or Mainly Turbo Tuff Rods (Pauter and Mainly are a bit pricey, but worth the money IMO)
Garrett GT3076r (one of the best street turbos out there)
Tial 44MM Wastegate.
Precision 1000cc injectors (the good thing about the bosh is that they idle like the stock injectors. IMO, you don’t need to pay that much more. Some people may flame me, but that’s what I think.
ACL Bearings.
ARP Headstuds.
Precision 600 whp intercooler. You do not need 3’ intercooler piping.
Any other questions, feel free to ask:rockon:[/QUOTE]
Hi,
My block has been sleeved to 81,5mm only. Does it matter a lot? I´ve heard that people have built quite rough set-ups with only 81,5mm bore… :hmm:
Bigger wastegate would be :rockon:
ARP headstuds I already have, I just forgot to mention them. Bosch injectors aren´t that expensive that I would pick Precisions because of the price.
Intercooler would be a good investment, I think. My current ebay-cooler “JDM sport” might not be very good…
The 81.5mm is good enough to make ~500+ whp. The life of a 83mm sleeve compared to a 81.5mm bore is a huge difference. I myself would do 83mm sleeved block because it will last longer.
And yes, more suggestions. Get Golden Eagle Cam gears, and blox type b cams. They make power!
[QUOTE=Spoolin 30R;2047607]The 81.5mm is good enough to make ~500+ whp. The life of a 83mm sleeve compared to a 81.5mm bore is a huge difference. I myself would do 83mm sleeved block because it will last longer.
And yes, more suggestions. Get Golden Eagle Cam gears, and blox type b cams. They make power![/QUOTE]
Ok, now we decided to build 81,5mm but now I have an extra block (my old) and I can make that to 84mm or so if I sometime need to build it. Darton sleeves would be good idea if making 84mm?
Few questions again. How far (hp) does stock fuel rail last? And stock fuel lines? And what did you mean with power when talking about cam gears… Aren´t those only to adjust cam timing when head and block have been modified, not to make power? Ok, of course you can adjust timing perfectly with them, but do they really affect with like tens of horsepowers?
And how about cams, I read Mike Kojima´s book and he said that stock cams are about the best solution. Is it worthless to buy for example Skunk2 turbo cams, or are they really making a lot of power or driveability more?
no, cams are awesome for high hp builds, but use NA cams, not Turbo cams. NA cams make more power. the cam gears are when you put on aftermarket cams to be able to adjust out the overlap of exhaust and intake. as far as 81.5 sleeved block to 84, i think its all a joke when people think there is a difference in them lasting, if its sleeved, your good for 700hp, no matter the bore size. stock sleeves will last to about 450hp with a good tune. its all about the tune. you can have tons of stuff done, but if its not tuned right, then its worthless. i’m building a lsvtec right now and i’m going to put down about 425hp on my stock sleeves running about 18lbs of boost. stock head, just stage 1 cams and gears, and skunk2 intake manifold. right now i’m at 300 on completely stock b16 with stage1 cams and intake man with only 10lbs of boost.
Thanks for your answer! I have stock head; stock cams, cam gears and intake manifold. There has been last summer 303hp with 12psi and now we changed the block as you can see above (internal parts also) and going to lift boost pressure to about 17-20psi expecting 350-400hp maybe even more. If I would´ve known that stock sleeves won´t hold more than about 450hp I would have bought Darton sleeves, but now it´s too late.
It seems that we have quite much same set-up except your hi-performance parts in your head.
I think my LMA´s are broken, you can listen it at:
Waiting for 1000cc injectors now (going to pick them up tomorrow) and then going to tune with Crome Pro and doing some dyno also. This all maybe (I hope so) at August.
I have turboed it and got 303hp of it with 12psi. Now my third cylinder seems to be broken and I´m planning to build the whole motor again from the beginning. I have had an 2,5" aluminum piping and intercooler, T3/T4 turbo, Tial style 38mm wastegate and 525cc injectors, 3 bar GM map, and everything adjusted with Crome. That engine hasn´t been opened so I have the stock pistons and rods, head gasket, head bolts etc.
Engine is JDM B16A. It has been a daily driver, but it seems that it becomes more and more only a toy which I take out of the garage only when it´s shining or at weekends to go to have a little fun. Sometimes to strip and so on…
It would be so easy to make it stronger now when I have to tear it apart anyway. It´s kind of a hard situation to me to see that much work and build it again with the same setup having no hp gain to earlier situation. Of course changing setup costs more money, but working hours are about the same and doing same things twice is something that I hate the most. That´s why it would be best to make decisions now and not to regret those decisions afterwards… 
Next, if not enough, I have to buy larger turbo, I think…
This all maybe (I hope so) at August.