[QUOTE=CandeShop;2245419](something along the lines of knukonceptz, kicker, stinger or welding cable)
*Don’t cheap out and buy some fleamarket brand or anything with a thick plastic looking casing. If the wire itself is thinner then the casing then it’s cheap and more prone to heat.[/QUOTE]
gotta vouch for knukonceptz, just received my 1/0 KCA cable and its very flexible and light compared to 1/0 stinger PRO wire. of course the difference is probably the jacket.
i have the battery…‘temporarily’ installed/relocated for the moment…i’m going to wait until i replace my radiator…AGAIN!!! to drill the holes i want and ‘properly’ position my relocation box. i also have to get the wires and what not as time didnt permit me to do all of that like i planned this weekend…but overall…i love it 
I don’t think you quite understood why I did it the way I did.
With my configuration the starter pulled power directly from the battery. It just so happened that the alternator was inline with that wire. Since my battery was in the trunk I needed to make sure that the wire supplying power to the starter was sufficient due to it’s very long length.
[QUOTE=CandeShop;2245419]
2. running a wire from alternator to amp’s is a waste of money and an inconvenience. That stud on top is only so tall and stacking that many terminals on it is only going to create heat problems which in turn creates resistance.[/quote]
How is that an inconvenience? It’s actually a more clean install and uses less wire. The other option is to run a wire directly from the battery to the amp. But that would require more wire. There is not any issue with heat at the alternator if wired that way. And the post is plenty tall for two ring terminals, even large ones for heavy gauge wire.
And as for cheap wiring, I totally agree. However there are cheap options which are really good. I like to use welding cable for most of my heavy gauge wiring. It’s much cheaper than the fancy car audio stuff, is made to handle massive amounts of current, and uses very fine strand wire so it’s very flexible compared to cheap car audio cables.
Current takes the path of least resistance. When current flows through any conductive material it creates heat. With that many terminals stacked up on the alternator positive post they are all going to get hotter (not only from engine produced heat but also the current flowing through more than one terminal) which is then going to create more resistance at the alternator post causing you to lose voltage at the battery and amp (if used).
There’s conceptual, and there’s real life. I’m not saying that your concept of heat and resistance is incorrect, just that the effect is not something to be concerned about in this situation.
it’s not concept it’s laws of physics. (Although it may not concern you) In this situation it’ll help your alternator, battery, and amp last longer and keep better voltage (which will help with how well your car runs) while driving the car daily (with a system). The added heat also creates a problem in wire, which greatly shortens “life span” of the chosen wire, in which the wire becomes corroded or accumulates a build up of oxidation.
I never experienced any of the concerns you are mentioning. Thus why I said the concept is correct, but in real life the actual effect you see from that concept is small and thus not something to concern yourself with. Obviously though everyone’s situation is slightly different so you need to be aware of possible issues and choose the appropriate wire sizes, lengths…etc My setup worked flawlessly and much better than the OEM starting/charging system wiring.
yes anything bigger than the stock 8-10 gauge wire is going to be better than the OEM system wiring. Check your voltage with a DMM. You’ll notice a difference in voltages in your “concept” and my “concept”. No argument just stating facts from experimentation.
I was always told that the Alternator give off a ripple voltage, the battery is just a cleaner source. Battery acts as a large capacitor giving off slow stable voltage. Didn’t mean to butt in on your conversation. ;D
Never heard the stacking terminal on the alt post causing resistance and lowering voltage being the reason why people don’t do it? How much of a difference was it when you tested it?
same as everyone else. this was mine in 2009. it’s the best pic i have. the battery lasted me a year but it was my fault. i forgot to put it on a maintenance charge during winter storage. i made the bracket myself from some stainless steel at a friends shop. turned out pretty nice. after that i just bought a normal sized battery and located it behind the passenger seat with some 1/0 cable.
here is my relocation, behind the radio , but obviously required no heater box
That is true also. There is a ripple effect coming from the alternator is due to the rectifier’s used. If a capacitor is used in line of the wire before the amp then this would be fine but the up and down voltage supplied to the amp along with the voltage drop from the current draw of the amp is going to make for a shorter life.
Never heard the stacking terminal on the alt post causing resistance and lowering voltage being the reason why people don’t do it? How much of a difference was it when you tested it?[/QUOTE]
Depends on the load you put on the car. If you are using 2000+ rms (which I’d assume many on here are below that) you can see anywhere between a .2-.9v difference because of the resistance buildup in the wire.
Here is mine from password jdm carbon fiber…this pic was a year ago. This was taken from my phone and i lost the USB to upload my recent one. The last pic was taken a year ago. My engine bay looks way better with no wiring, hoses, alignment…etc bs
Passenger floorboard where ecu usually goes
Sorry to bring this from the dead… but wow Thx guys for the cheap non PW:GayDM Relocation box
MODS Pin THIS Please!!