ordered from the above link w/ 2day shipping for $37
[QUOTE=nar93da;1969674]I’ve got an Odyssey PC680 mounted directly below the stock location on the inside of the frame. Its mounted right under the DC2 intake box and you can barely see it.
[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Colin;2156693]Under the passenger seat is a great spot, especially in regard to placement of weight. I just prefer my battery to be more accessible.
I put mine under where the stock battery goes, in my situation it was the most simple option. The wheel well area where the stock resonator goes is a nice spot visually, but I don’t feel safe with the battery on the “outside” of the car.
I used nutserts for the install.[/QUOTE]
to either this poster or anyone else who has used this exact relocation…did you have the metal jacket on, or did you remove/not have it on the battery w/ this aluminum tie down/relocation bracket
and colin what are ‘nutserts’?
I have the metal jacket on mine is on the otherside so you cant really see it tho
you have the metal jacket and the aluminum tie down on like the pics posted? gota pic?
What are you talking about by “metal jacket”?
The battery itself is encased in plastic and looks like this:
Odyssey PC680 Battery by C o l i n, on Flickr
Then the bracket, hold down, box… whatever you want to call it (mine is aluminum which I had powder coated) looks like this:
Project 896_052909_002 by C o l i n, on Flickr
As for nutserts, Let Me Google That For You. They’re super handy for stuff like this.
ok cool…i’ll have to remove my metal jacket then…i guess its no worries about it…they said the metal jacket is to help it remain cool if in a heated ‘compartment’
this is how it looks w/ the metal jacket on:
Interesting, I’d never seen that metal jacket before. That bit about keeping it cool sounds sorta dumb though. If you put the battery into a hot space and cover it with metal like that it will take longer to warm up, but in the end everything under the hood is gonna reach pretty much the same temp unless it’s truly blocked off and given fresh air.
while researching the battery and the reason for the MJ seems like its really more for the people who are using the battery on motorcycles
yea…wish i thought about that…but i kinda figured they had the box/relocation bracket big enough for it to fit w/ it on…eitherway i removed it last night, with a little elbow grease, had my homeboy who is out of work paint it for me (wrinkle black) and shot him some cash…
Looks good. Like I’ve said before though, I just can’t stand those giant terminals. The battery is so small and sleek, seems odd to stick two giant terminals on top and use the stock clamp style connectors and stock wiring. To me it just feels like you’re defeating the purpose of a clean and simple install if you use those things. Does make the install easier I guess.
thanks…i havent gotten the wiring or anything for it yet…so its still up in the air as to what exactly i’m going to use…i do plan to get about 2 ft of 0 gauge wire to go from the fuse box to the battery and i guess run some 0 guage, gota see how much im going to need, to run from the fusebox to the starter. gota get a ground wire made too. hopefully get all that taken care of this weekend
Here’s mine.
0 gauge is pretty hefty stuff. Where is your battery going? Are you running amps or any large stereo or lighting? It never hurts to go bigger, but bigger wires are harder to deal with, especially when you’re tying to make custom connections. For example, how on earth do you plan on connecting 0 gauge wire to the fuse box? It’s a pretty tight squeeze in that thing since it’s setup to take 2 or 3 6-8ga wires. Finding a 0 gauge terminal that’s thin enough to fit the fuse box is probably going to be impossible. I’ve modified ring terminals and trimmed the plastic covers to make it work, but that’s with 4-8ga (and even then it was a REALLY tight fit and the fuse box didn’t close properly).
Depending on how/where your battery is mounted you can pick and choose what gauge wires to use in different locations. The fuse box really doesn’t need a realy thick wire since not much power goes thru there. Where a larger wire is needed is at the starter, the alternator, and any aux wiring you may add for something like a stereo.
my battery is going right in the engine bay, just like how the PWJDM has thiers displayed and where you have yours, right below the stock battery location…i have a small system in there…a 10…at most ill be running one 12, i dont think ill go any bigger than that as i dont want too much attention. but i have HIDs now in teh stock headlights, unsure if i’m going to run HIDs in the one pieces i have or have someone retro fit for me…i’m sure i’ll run halogen first…so what you’re recommending is 4 ga wire?..i’d love to have 0 ga…i guess since you mentioned that, ill have to go to the local radio shack and just see w/ my own eyes what works well in the fuse box.
I’m pretty busy today prepping for a company meeting but I’ll give a few comments off the top of my head:
- I would run your main wiring from the battery like this, or something similar:
- Heavy gauge (4 should be sufficient) from battery to starter
- Medium gauge (8 should be sufficient) from battery to fuse box
- Heavy gauge (4 should be sufficient) from starter to alternator
- Heavy gauge (4 should be sufficient, but use 0 if you’d like) from alternator to your amp(s) or any interior accessories you’re adding that need extra power
- Heavy gauge (4 should be sufficient) for your battery ground
- Be sure to upgrade other grounds on the engine
-
There are calculators available online which will help you determine wire sizes. You generally need to know the current you can expect to see and the length of wire. For shorter spans you really don’t need huge wire, it’s generally only the longer wires that need to be beefed up a lot.
-
Don’t settle for whatever Radioshack has, there are other options out there. Between Ebay, Amazon, and multiple online companies you can often find some really cool stuff that isn’t available locally.
alternator to the amp?! i’m currently running a power wire from the battery to the amp right now? anything special by running from teh alt to the amp?..i’ve never heard of this method…and i understand being busy…i’m busy too…but…lol i’m amped about getting my battery in so i’m squeezing in some g2ic time :read:
It’s more a thing of convenience than anything else. Doing it that way allows you to spread the wiring out so you don’t have so many wires all coming directly off of the battery. Usually the battery is the best starting point since it’s the most accessible, but if you’re redoing the wiring anyway you can do it however you like.
When I had my battery in the trunk it was wired like this:
- battery to circuit breaker
- circuit breaker to fuse dist block for amps
- circuit breaker to alternator
- alternator to a “T”
- one leg of the “T” went to the starter
- one leg of the “T” went to the fuse box
I just trimmed the composite material piece on the alternator terminal (little brown thing iirc) to allow for a larger ring terminal. Then I had two ring terminals on that post - one led back to the battery, one led over to the “T” I mentioned. When pulling the engine I would disconnect the wire from the alternator so that could stay in the car, then the rest of the wiring came out w/ the engine (I loomed it into the engine wiring harness).
gotcha gotcha…thanks man for the heads up
-
running a wire from alternator to starter is a waste of money. Alternator isn’t where the starter draws it’s power from (that’s the battery’s purpose)
-
running a wire from alternator to amp’s is a waste of money and an inconvenience. That stud on top is only so tall and stacking that many terminals on it is only going to create heat problems which in turn creates resistance.
-
Grounds should all be upgraded from the stock 8-10 gauge that comes on the car. (battery to body, body to tranny, engine to body)
-
Power wire should be upgraded from alternator to battery (with a fuse in-line for safety)
-
Fuse box to battery should still be kept at a 8awg wire, for ease of installation. (something along the lines of knukonceptz, kicker, stinger or welding cable)
-
Battery to starter can be the same size (8awg) you used for fuse box connection or you could step it up to 4awg if you wanted.
*Don’t cheap out and buy some fleamarket brand or anything with a thick plastic looking casing. If the wire itself is thinner then the casing then it’s cheap and more prone to heat.