i know and i did reserch the forum on how to do it but i dont understand how they explain it… i took out the whole power steering system and now i only have the lines and the steerin rack left… i dont want to get a manual steering rack i want to use the one i have. what do i need to do the the steering rack i have now to make it work. i see that ppl say to re loop the lines … does any one have pics on how to do it. aslo do i need to do anything else to the steering rack? liek drain all the fluid out or anything like that etc… also to reloop the line on the tranny/w speedo… any one have a picture on that also if they could . it owuld help me out alot. i need to get this done ASAP liek in a day or two. so could some of u G2ic member out there help me out please thank you… ill post a pic of my steering rack@@!@#!#!!$
i just broke the power steering hose off?? lol worked for me.
u just cut all the lines at the bolts? what did u do with the tranny one? with the speedo?
theres one that goes to the tranny?lol i dont know my speedo didnt work even be4 i cut the power steerin and i just broke it off like where it sits on that crossmembr behind the motor.
did all the fluids come out? how long have u had it like this for? could i just cut them like two inches down as u see in the pic where all the line come out?
Wouldn’t the best idea be to connect the lines at the rack? You wouldn’t want dirt to get in there and mess up your steering now would you? And just put some caps on the transmission … seems easy enough to me.
yeah fluid leaked out and its been like that for like 2 or 3 weeks now
loop the line thats on the left side with the third one in your pic. and the second with the fourth. leave about 2-3" of tube and just use some rubber hose and clamps. then for the speed sensor its straight forward. theres two hoses that go in/out. take one of the hoses off, then cut the other but leave a couple inches and just connect it to the other port.
should i let all the fluid come out or should i keep some fluid in there let me know
also on the tanny can i just use one tube and loop it over. connecting both to on hose. lieka horse shoe… or have each have there own hose and cap off the ends? should i let all the fluid drain out of the steerin rack when i reloop the lines liek u said? thanks for the help guys… hwo long would this method work for till i get a manual steering rack?
I read something on team integ. saying it was too many turns lock to lock to be worth it. The only manual rack you can use is from i think it was an EF not shur and it doesnt really fit perfect. Just what i read they got a thread on the three diff ways vent,loop,manul. Im going to loop mine too just kind of debating tell me how hard it is to turn them(stopped lol) x2 or like hulk turns.
he’s just loopin his stock rack not talking about an EF rack. but u are right about the EF rack being too many turns to lock and u gotta put different bushings to make it line up right. when u loop the system tho… its tougher to turn when not moving at all… but thats just where u have to learn to park n turn n stuff more efficiently n stuff. its about 2.5x harder. i’d compare like this… oem clutch compared to a stage 2 PP (pressure plate). tougher but not that bad. hulk is like oem clutch compared to stage 4 PP. where u get a HUGE STERIOD lookin left calf (or is it calve?).
yteah its easier while u move then just sitting there though lol. i mean yeah its gunna be harder when at a stop but ohh well lol… but could sum1 help me out and let me know if i should keep the fluid in there while i loop the lines
Power steering removal
The more fluid you have in the rack the harder it will be to turn. You don’t have to have that much to keep it lubricated. I drained all the fluid and removed all the lines for now. I’m gonna run the set up that redtegra talks about in this thread. And for the speedo sensor, I’m gonna use one out of 88-91 Civic. No PS lines on that one. 
I looped mine like redtegra said in here then i add a 99 civic clutch cyclinder it is super small an yoused it as my breather so i have fluid in the rack. I cant get a manuel rack so this is the best. I can do illl try an up load a pic on my breather for you
First time I did it I removed some of the lines and kept some, no looping, just plugged everything up. Worked fine and never had any problems for over 5yrs of daily driving (15-20k miles per year).
More recently I removed it again on my new car. Removed all the lines, cut off the fittings which thread into the rack and used JB weld to turn them into plugs so it wouldn’t leak.
Cheap, easy, simple, and effective. I read all about the looping, adding the breather, adding the extra reservoir… Figured I could do that and use all Earls fittings… then I realized there wasn’t really a good reason to go to all the trouble and cost or add extra stuff to my engine bay that I didn’t need.
I need to bring this thread back… I did mine like redtegra said - loop the first with the third and second with the fourth and between each loop I added a T and ran two lines to a breather. It is still hard to turn and I am not sure if I did something wrong or I am just weak and expected it to make a bigger difference… Anyone else do it like this?
[QUOTE=Colin;2071226]First time I did it I removed some of the lines and kept some, no looping, just plugged everything up. Worked fine and never had any problems for over 5yrs of daily driving (15-20k miles per year).
More recently I removed it again on my new car. Removed all the lines, cut off the fittings which thread into the rack and used JB weld to turn them into plugs so it wouldn’t leak.
Cheap, easy, simple, and effective. I read all about the looping, adding the breather, adding the extra reservoir… Figured I could do that and use all Earls fittings… then I realized there wasn’t really a good reason to go to all the trouble and cost or add extra stuff to my engine bay that I didn’t need.[/QUOTE]
thats a great idea collin:rockon:
why not get a crx rack and use that. you free up some wieght and space