I have been driving for 4 months or so with no PS belt…for the majority of that time there has been no fluid in the rack I know because I saw it all leak out…would cutting the lines and pinching them be fine? I have read all about the looping lines but if I have no fluid in there to begin with then what’s the point? I’ve read other thread’s talking about how the fluid doesn’t need to be in rack and others saying it does. Would I be endangering myself driving with absolutely no fluid in the system? Thanks for the help!
Are you trying to restore your power steering eventually?
i removed my entire power steering system including lines. i just left the ports wide open. Most people say it needs to stay closed and lubricated. i have only been running this setup for 3 months, but havent had any issues thus far autocrossing, rallycrossing, and road coursing. the steering is heavy but managable with 205/50-15 kumho XS.
why cut and pinch the lines?
remove the PS hoses and sell em. they go for at least enough money to help fund the manual EF rack conversion which would be your best bet…
just sayin…
If you just pinch the line off and let it run dry…You will eventually have to replace the whole thing one way or another cause it will probably lock up or turn like total crap. Search on here and do one of the many ways people have made it work. At this point in time…if all your fluid leaks out, your best bet is to keep filling it up till you figure out what you want to do cause I’d imagine a power rack cant last long running it dry.
I will be completing manual conversion here soon and my power rack with everything will go up for sale. No leaks.
I’ve heard of lots of people running dry that race their car often, still seems a bit risky to me though
I’m curious though, can I just loop the lines at the reservoir? Not as “clean” but its a lot easier and it would stay lubricated just not as much fluid pushing through it. Just until I have the time and money for the manual conversion (probably next summer).
my manual conversion was rite around $200 for everything…its not as expensive as it sounds
and like I said those power steering parts… namely the lines that run from the pump to the rack… are not cheap, and getting harder to find for guys like me that just keep things stock…
Last time I checked for shits n giggles those 2 lines in new condition were over 250 bucks. SO best guess is that used well you can do the math based on the content here 
Is it true that it messes with the turning capabilities of the car? You’ll have to spin wheel more to actually turn less? If so what do you think about it?
Cost of rack, and new inner and outer tie rods? I got lucky and managed to get an SI rack for $15.
It does depending on what model the rack come out of…and SI rack is 1/4 turn more than stock lock to lock, and other EF rack is full 1/2 turn more lock to lock. I am going by the turning ratios supplied on the autozone website. I’d imagine that if your stock power rack is as messed up as you say yours is…you’d never notice.
You can also get aftermarket quick ratio gear sets, but those only work with non SI model racks I think.
yea the quaife quick ratio kit only works on the non si. and it eliminates 25% of the turning distance…i was about to order it then i found wheels…so i might have to hold off rite now
[QUOTE=djzachtyler;2274216]and like I said those power steering parts… namely the lines that run from the pump to the rack… are not cheap, and getting harder to find for guys like me that just keep things stock…
Last time I checked for shits n giggles those 2 lines in new condition were over 250 bucks. SO best guess is that used well you can do the math based on the content here ;)[/QUOTE]
Haha true, I just want my car back after this engine swap and transmission conversion haha. I should do the smart thing and look into it I guess 
Edit: Been doing research but can’t find much, I just need the rack? Is that it or the tie rods too?
[QUOTE=Charly;2274327]Haha true, I just want my car back after this engine swap and transmission conversion haha. I should do the smart thing and look into it I guess
Edit: Been doing research but can’t find much, I just need the rack? Is that it or the tie rods too?[/QUOTE]
not trying to clutter his thread, but u need the civic rack, new integra inner and outer tie rods, and a special bushing piece that a member on here sells…
My bad sorry for getting off track, thx 
Conflicting info on here from other members who have done this say to use EF inners and DA outers…
They must be the same, cause I have seen people say both kinds of inners work in a bunch of different threads. It needs to be locked down.
AND if you keep reading into it they say to use da inner and outers, the ef inners are too short…
Some guy just told me literally last week that he used EF inners and has been driving it like that no issues. I’ll try to find the thread.
DAMN IT!! ha.
someone needs to make an OFFICIAL EF MANUAL RACK SWAP THREAD…im tired of getting mixed information on this…sorry op for your thread turning into this
If I can actually remember to take pictures for once, I will make one when I do the swap.
Still need the final word from someone on the inner tie rods tho.
i bought integra inners and outers as i was told to by the guy who sells the spacer kit on here for the manual rack swap
Seems like a good person to trust. That’s what I’m gonna do then.