I’m looking for some clarification and thought I’d see if anybody on here can offer some different insight.
I’ve basically rebuilt a b18a from bottom up so that it’s ready for boost. This includes 450 injectors. I know the ECU needs to be reprogrammed to account for this, but I’m not 100% clear on whether or not a Blox intake, b18b cams, B20 throttle body and a Golden Eagle fuel rail have to be factored in at this point.
I’m not going to boost immediately as I want to break in the rebuilt motor and make sure that everything runs fine before I take it to the next step. I just want to make sure that I’m not missing something here. I thought I read somewhere that I have to get it dynotuned ASAP before driving it around. I’m finding mixed opinions on this. Part of my problem is there is nobody here locally that I know of that can reliably tune Turboedit so everything that I can do on my own at this point is my only option.
you’ll be fine w/ no ecu tuning with just that. be easy for the first 500miles then boost it then beat the hell out it.
EDIT: if your doing all this work to already convert it to obd1 and tune on crome. Also go to homemadeturbo.com or pgmfi.org and find the tuner database and look for your area.
Do you mean run the ECU stock or at least adjust for the injectors? No offense, but what are your personal experiences with this? I’m just trying to find out as much as possible to avoid ruining what is basically a brand new motor.
if your going to run those DSM injectors during break in then you NEED to be tuned for it. I thought you meant break in on stock injectors. I’m boosted running on crome in my '90 RS. I did the work myself, I boosted my buddies KA24de in his 240sx also I boosted my buddies LS powered 4-door eg. Plus i’ve helped on many other builds. I’m by know means an expert but I know what im talking about and how to boost cars. By built for boost do you mean forged internals or just a stock rebuild? If its forged your going to need bigger injectors you’ll grow old of what those 450cc can handle. I’m 100% stock as a rock right now exept for the turbo and im maxing my 450’s, also invest in some cams are motors fall on their face past 6500. (I just bought some Delta regrinds.)
So can I just simply change the injector sizing in Turboedit or do I still have to get dyno tuned for the other stuff? Like I said I’m not going to boost right away so I just need to get the motor to run relatively safe for a while until I do. The bottom end is built with SRPs, Eagle rods etc. This is my daily driver so I’m not looking for mad, mad power. I hope you did’t take offense to me asking about your personal experiences. Since I don’t know you, I just wanted to make sure that I wasn’t talking to someone quoting what they’ve heard from a buddy or read on some other forum.
frozenrice, you can get your ecu chipped and rage2 can help you out with the tuning. He tuned mine and maybe he still has my old bin file and he can just change some minor things in the program.
i don’t really recommend you driving around without getting tuned. Better be safe than be sorry 
Yes you can change the injector sizing via turboedit so that you can drive around NA without flooding the engine, but why dont you just leave the stock injectors in and break it in with with a unmodified ecu, then when your ready to boost hookup everything and drive to the dyno on a base map get it tuned? I think that the way to go so you have to dick around with trying to tune the 450’s for NA then again for boost, just seems like a waste of time. but if you really want to run the 450’s for break in go for it. Just my 2cents. I took no offense I 100% understand about people who post on fourms and really dont know anything.
jaylo, I pm’d rage2 on beyond and he never responded so I’m not thinking he’s going to take me seriously. It appears that other people aren’t having much luck either. I’ll shoot you a pm later on beyond and we can discuss more then.
twitch, Thanks for your perspective on things and I agree pretty much with what you are saying. However, for most people, doing automotive electrical and stuff is easy for them to understand. For me - and I don’t know why - it seems over my head and it scares me. I kind of hit a brick wall when it comes to that and at the rate it takes me to understand things, it will be quite a long time before I “get it”. While the original motor was obd1 to start with, I ended up going backwards to obd0 to try and keep it simple. Anyways, the long and short of it is that the original injectors won’t work on obd0.
Thanks guys.
^ I see. I didnt know you where obd1 before. So you added a resitor box then. Ya then just throw in them 450’s set a base map so you can run’em, boost it set another base map drive to dyno tune then your set. Thats what i’d do any way. It sounds like your going to pay to be tuned NA the retuned for boost. In any case good luck on the boost project. Also keep reading and you’ll get the electrics figured out some time, dont let things like that scare you but also dont get over your head.
Actually my car that the motor is going into is already obd0, the rebuilt motor is a 92 (obd1),the DSM injectors are obd0 and a guy I know had a obd0 pr4 chipped ECU for a decent price (I needed a manual ECU anyways since I’m doing the auto to manual swap at the same time), so I thought it would be the natural and easier route to go obd0.
if you are planning on breaking it in, use stock ECU and stock injectors…you cant just rescale a fuel map and call that ‘good enough’
unless you can get it tuned right from the first startup (important 1st moments in a new engines life), dont install different injectors
Point taken. What do I do about the intake, cams, and TB? Or should the stock ECU be fine for that as well? So far with everyone’s input, I think I’ll play it safe and find some stock OBD0 injectors and swap them in for the break in. Thankfully I pulled a stock unchipped pr4 from the junkyard so I have a spare one laying around anyways. Thanks for the input guys!
Thats weird I think I said to do that before. huh. you’ll be fine with the diffrent cams, TB, etc… I got some stock obd0 injectors for sell if your interested.
I think the ECU will adjust accordingly for fuel…its the timing it may have issues with…you may notice spots or jerkyness, but again, just dont beat on it and make sure you O2 is functional and there are no check engine lights