Pro's and Con's of LS/V and GSR Motor's

So i have been doing research the last week or so and this is what I have come up with, so how does this parts list look for a LS/V freshen up/build.

  1. Golden Eagle LS/V kit

  2. full ls bearing kit (rod,main,thrust)

  3. new p72 or p73 pistons

  4. ls ARP rod bolt set

  5. new ITR oil pump

  6. new waterpump

  7. OEM B18c timing belt

  8. OEM ls Head gasket

  9. OEM cam seals

  10. GSR OEM intake manifold gasket

  11. GSR ARP head studs

  12. OEM intake and exhaust valve seals

  13. ARP main stud kit

  14. password:JDM magnetic drain plug

  15. OEM gasket set (bottom end-front and rear main, oil pick up, oil pan, water pump, main crank, o-rings)

  16. OEM timing belt tensioner

  17. OEM VC gasket

  18. throttle body gasket
    19.OEM vtec solenoid gasket

  19. OEM exhaust manifold gasket

  20. new valve springs

This isn’t complete but if there is something I am missing feel free to add on. Also, what ECU is going to be best to run with a LS/V with a GSR head?

At minimum you need to run a VAFC to get some control but Hondata… well, you know…

You can run a chip p28 on chrome or hondata s200 or s300. Also maybe a set of cams and some injectors. Me and my boy just built one. We ran with hondata and the set up is
B16 head
Type r cams
Blox dual valve springs
Skunk2 manifold
Hytech header
60mm tb
Rc 310 injectors
Aem fuel rail
B18c1 block
Type r pistons
Balanced assembly
Toda timing belt

i dont need the tuning software i need to know what ECU i am going to need for the motor… I am going to use ECtUne when i get it tuned.

bump for more opinions on parts and what ECU I will need to run

na LS V REV TO 10,100 FOR 2 YEARS 237 WHP HERE IF ITS BUILT RIGHT IT WILL HAVE NO PROBLEM LASTING WITH HIGH REVS
I AM SURE NOT LIKE A FACTORY GSR THAT CAN GO OVER 100K MILES NO PROBLEMS BUT IF YOU REVED A GSR TO 10K IT WOULD PROB FAIL EARILER ALSO BASICLY IF ITS GONNA REV IT WILL FAIL EARILER BUT IF ITS BUILT RIGHT ITS NOT GONNA BE TIME BOMB LIKE ALOT OF PEOPLE SAY ABOUT THE LS-V

LS V = A STROKED GSR

[QUOTE=JayDM_ls/vtec;2064280]na LS V REV TO 10,100 FOR 2 YEARS 237 WHP HERE IF ITS BUILT RIGHT IT WILL HAVE NO PROBLEM LASTING WITH HIGH REVS
I AM SURE NOT LIKE A FACTORY GSR THAT CAN GO OVER 100K MILES NO PROBLEMS BUT IF YOU REVED A GSR TO 10K IT WOULD PROB FAIL EARILER ALSO BASICLY IF ITS GONNA REV IT WILL FAIL EARILER BUT IF ITS BUILT RIGHT ITS NOT GONNA BE TIME BOMB LIKE ALOT OF PEOPLE SAY ABOUT THE LS-V

LS V = A STROKED GSR[/QUOTE]

im not gonna be revvin anywhere near 10 grand. i dont know how comfortable i will feel goin much over 8 grand. im 90% sure that i am going to go ls/v when i get this build started, but i still have some time to decide. the thought of a gsr swap is still lingering in the back of my mind

[QUOTE=JayDM_ls/vtec;2064280]na LS V REV TO 10,100 FOR 2 YEARS 237 WHP HERE IF ITS BUILT RIGHT IT WILL HAVE NO PROBLEM LASTING WITH HIGH REVS
I AM SURE NOT LIKE A FACTORY GSR THAT CAN GO OVER 100K MILES NO PROBLEMS BUT IF YOU REVED A GSR TO 10K IT WOULD PROB FAIL EARILER ALSO BASICLY IF ITS GONNA REV IT WILL FAIL EARILER BUT IF ITS BUILT RIGHT ITS NOT GONNA BE TIME BOMB LIKE ALOT OF PEOPLE SAY ABOUT THE LS-V

LS V = A STROKED GSR[/QUOTE]

smh… :roll:

^i was doin the same thing:tsk:

As for the transmission it doesn’t have to be another one. I have an ls and took apart to replace it with oem seals and bearings. First gear is the same on just about all Honda b-series and u can pick and choose what gear configuration best suits u. N a plus side it’ll be rebuilt and u won’t worry about whether or not the one u buy is working. U could also throw in a jdm LSD and final drive as I will

on2…
That’s a great point about the transmission, just lose the LS third gear!!! I like the B16 trans gearing, just need that LSD.

ya it just depends on which trans i come across and what i can get a deal on. i plan on rebuilding it either way and which everyone i buy will eventually get lsd and an ls 5th gear.

b18c block,
LS 89mm crank, LS rods, ARP rod bolts
82mm pr3 pistons (aftermarket)
P72 gs-r head.
S2s2 cams
Mugen baffled oil pan

ys1 gs-r trans, with 4.9 FD and LSD

:up:

[QUOTE=viprtwo;2067393]b18c block,
LS 89mm crank, LS rods, ARP rod bolts
82mm pr3 pistons (aftermarket)
P72 gs-r head.
S2s2 cams
Mugen baffled oil pan

ys1 gs-r trans, with 4.9 FD and LSD

:up:[/QUOTE]

is the mugen pan going to make that much difference or is it just for style points? and a 4.9 final drive on a daily, isnt that a little bit high?

mugen or no mugen, i think baffled oil pans are a good investment on any performance honda. I like the mugen one cuz it seems to fit good and it’s quite affordable. It’s not going to make you faster, but it def. will keep oil where it should be.

It’s def. not style points cuz there’s other, more blingy ways to “mugenize” your ride.

as for the 4.9… i daily drive on it. don’t have a problem. seriously. Honestly, it sucks after about 110mph, but I don’t cruise too fast. I can hardly drive faster than 80 on the fwys here in socal anyways. however, out of the hole, through the 1/4, it is DRASTICALLY faster/quicker than the 4.4 or the 4.7

people underestimate how much gearing helps performance, oh yeah, and the LS 5th gear kinda sucks, I’d go with the p72 5th instead. MUCH better.
:burnout:

if you daily drive on the 4.9 then what are your RPMs at 80 MPH? cause i know with a b16 trans or even a GSR trans with a 4.4 final gear your at 4000 RPM at 80 MPH so im thinkin for a 4.9 its probably 4500+. That increase would affect my fuel mileage and im not sure if i want it to sacrifice that for a little faster acceleration. anything over 100mph i dont worry about on the street cause i rarely go that fast.I am starting to understand more and more about gearing and how important it is and thats why i am going to work on the trans before i start on the motor. i havent really looked into a baffled oil pan, and to be quite honest i don’t even know what it does. typically when i think of mugen, i think of expensive with a performance benefit but with a higher cost.

  1. new ITR oil pump

if you get an ITR oil pump and want to run a timing belt cover, you also have to get an OBDII lower cover. Or you could rebuild your oil pump with the ITR shim and save the money on both.

thanks for the tip.

My car is at about 4500-4700 rpm at 80. It’s not too bad.

As for mileage, I’m at 290 miles before my gas light comes on. I fill up around 310. Farthest I’ve dared go was 320 miles. Never ran out of gas :whew:

I ran a best 14.0@99 on the stock ys1-gsr tranny. averaged about 14.2 at 98 in 10 runs. with no interior.

New gearing I’m running a best of 13.6@103 and averaging 13.7@101 WITH full interior.

No modifications to the motor.
Both setups had LSD.
Same tires.

I wind the motor out to 9000 on the drag strip.

wow thats a huge difference! im just not sure if i wanna be runnin 4600 rpm on the interstate. not only im i worried about gas mileage suffering, i have a fart can and its gonna be SOO much louder at that rpm. not sure if the girlfriend would approve. After all this is my daily and I’ll drive it wayyyy more on the street then at the strip. I have a feeling whatever trans i go with is more than likely going to have an LS 5th gear. I have never drag raced on the strip so on the 1/8 mile do you get past 4th gear with the gearing you are running now?