Pro's and Con's of LS/V and GSR Motor's

ASSISTANCE Hybrids & Advanced Aftermarket Engine Performance
41

I drive 99% roads.

When you think about it, run the 1/4 mile 4 times, and you’ve only done a mile. the rest is all street/fwy miles.

But it can be loud with a fart can. Not to mention I won’t disagree that it isn’t harder on your engine to keep it wound up more. but i dont plan on this motor lasting 100k miles. Even if it did, by 50k miles, I prob will want to rebuild it to 2.0L anyways.

I cross the 1/4 trap at 8500-8600 rpm in 4th gear.

as for gearing,

i have a new, taller 1st gear, (3.020) 92-93 gs-r 2-4, 95+ gs-r 5th, 4.9 FD

42

yeah longevity on whatever I build is key so keeping wound up all the time might not be the best. i am actually beginning to lean towards a GSR swap. So i have a question. I’m still some what of a noob when it comes to motors and I have a guy that wants to trade me a bare GSR block with main caps and girdle for a set of EP3 seats I have. what are the main caps and girdle and how much do you think a bare block is worth?

43

i have a 4.47 fd and run a j1 s1 on a ls motor… my car never passes 7k and doesnt need to… even with crower stage 3’s… reving over 7k on my setup is pointless… but its non-vtec… my buddys 12 sec ef is a stock b20 block with b16 head and he shifts at 7200 and runs 12.30 on drag radials… you dont have to rev the bearings out of a motor to make power… im going ls/v soon and the 8200 stock rev limit is plenty

44

main caps hold the crank in place.

I wouldnt trade it. a gs-r short block is maybe worth $300-400 on the street.

but you’d spend at least 5x that trying to get it to built and running right.

45

and I wouldn’t spend just as much if not more for an LS/V?

46

ehh> maybe,

its more about convenience. I’d rather sell the seats for $400, and put that towards a complete block, then add pistons, bearings, new oil pump. Then have to build it from scratch again.

I personally hate going to the honda dealer with a list of 100 parts and walking out with a huge bill, then when you get to building the thing. you realize you forget an O ring or an oil pressure switch, knock sensor.

Not to mention, sourcing a crank, then having to align hone the block to make sure its true and spins freely, i mean, they’re little things, but it just depends if you want to do that.

For me, it’s not worth it anymore, and it ends up costing more in the long run. For you, maybe it is.

For the record, a bought a bare gs-r block in 1997, after rebuilding it with parts, I was out at least $6k.

putting to together my LS vtec to run 13’s was just shy of $3500

47

[QUOTE=viprtwo;2070639]ehh> maybe,

its more about convenience. I’d rather sell the seats for $400, and put that towards a complete block, then add pistons, bearings, new oil pump. Then have to build it from scratch again.

I personally hate going to the honda dealer with a list of 100 parts and walking out with a huge bill, then when you get to building the thing. you realize you forget an O ring or an oil pressure switch, knock sensor.

Not to mention, sourcing a crank, then having to align hone the block to make sure its true and spins freely, i mean, they’re little things, but it just depends if you want to do that.

For me, it’s not worth it anymore, and it ends up costing more in the long run. For you, maybe it is.

For the record, a bought a bare gs-r block in 1997, after rebuilding it with parts, I was out at least $6k.

putting to together my LS vtec to run 13’s was just shy of $3500[/QUOTE]

well the benfit that i have with the OEM parts is that I work at a Honda dealership and so as far as price I would get a little bit of a break. To put it in perspective, a guy that works here now rebuilt a USDM B16 using all Honda parts and at the time it cost him $6k. He went back and priced everything with his discount now and total it would have run him right at $4k. Anywho, idk. I stil have some deciding to do, and really before I start I am probably going to price out both builds. we will just see I guess

48

well i am going to have to address this issue sooner than i thought. Tonight while changing my oil at work, my oil pan stripped. At my price thru honda its gonna run me about $140 to get one for my car. Am I better off getting a baffled pan now or should I just stick with the OEM one? Whatever I buy now is probably what I am going to have for my LS/VTEC just for the simple fact I don’t wanna buy a part twice, ya know? If I should go baffled who, besides mugen, makes a baffled oil pan?

49

moroso. its like $150

50

i cant find one online. who sells them?

51

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-20911/

52

wondering

Does it make sense to have a b18c block and a b18a1 head? Is it even possible?
im just wondering:umno:

53

b18a1 is not on the application list. did you use this on your car?

[QUOTE=Bizarro;2078110]Does it make sense to have a b18c block and a b18a1 head? Is it even possible?
im just wondering:umno:[/QUOTE]

why did you ask a question and then answer it yourself?? i’m confused

54

its the same oil pan.

55

So I can’t find much on this question so I figure I’ll ask it and see what I get. I have acquired a B16a2 block along with my GSR head. So I put the GSR head on the b16 block instead of doing an ls/vtec, what kind of power numbers would I be looking at? Would that be “more” reliable than an ls/vtec? Is it a smart swap to do cause its apparently not very popular? Just kind of toying around with the idea. The block in essence was “free” because of the way I have traded some things around so I don’t have any money in it. Its got pistons,crank and all that good stuff. Should I sell it like I am trying to, or should I use it instead of an LS block?

56

bumppp for help

57

id use the LS block over a b16 block any day.

58

if you have a free b16 block and a gsr head, you might as well give it a shot. We really cant tell you what to do. IMO, i say just put the b16 in there and call it a day. it’s fun, and you’ll be done. otherwise yu wont finish your motor for a few more weeks if not months. sometimes it takes longer then that, not to mention, you don’t really seem to know what you want just yet as far as parts go.

you wont be as fast as a 1.8, but it’ll be decent, not to mention much more convenient getting the motor in your car and just being done with it. have fun with your car, and when you are really ready to step up to a bigger motor, you will be able to appreciate it.

my best time in a b16 DA was 14.8 with ctr cams and ITR 4-1 header, mugen chipped ecu. best time in my 1.8 was 13.6

59

im just gonna get rid of the b16 block. i have picked up a second job and im gonna work my ass off and save save save money all this winter and hopefully by may i’ll have the $$$ saved up to start this build. during this winter i am going to finalize my parts list and what not and have a definite idea of what i am doing. right now its for sure ls/vtec with a gsr head. other than that its more research from now. i’ll get it figured out this winter

60

So after spending over half of what I have saved up the last few months on various car problems (axle,axle seal, oil pan,alternator,tow bill and labor) plus a few other odds and ends, my 3rd gear synchro has gone out due to the leaking axle seal. This is what my options look to be. As I understand it, you have to pull the trans to do the synchro anyway. My trans has 235,000 miles on it. I would think a rebuild of the trans should be in good order, HOWEVER I don’t really wanna dump money in a trans that I’ll probably be getting rid of in the next year or so. I really want to source a GSR trans to mate with my oringal LS/V set up so I am thinking about doing that instead. Would that be a smart move? Or should I try and get a B16 trans? More than likely whichever one I choose I will stick in an LS 5th gear just because of all the highway driving I do.

Side note: My girlfriend breaking up with me has allowed me to save up a lot more money! Girls suck but in this case I have been glad!! Haha cars>girl!