the projectors that i am using are the bi-xenon fx35. they have a solenoid switch that powers a shield that just redirects the light beam. from my understanding you can just use the highbeam wire to a relay to activate this shield. but where would be a good place to get power for the relay to power the ballasts…i initially thought the low beam but then i did some research and found that if you did that then when switching from low beam to high beam you will lose power to the low beam wire. which in essence will turn power off to the ballast=no headlights. where would be a good place to get power to the ballast without it cutting off when hitting the high beams? i want to do this right without causing any problems later on. so i want to build a relay harness…maybe i am putting too much thought into this but better safe than sorry. thanks in advance
That may be a “trick” as the dimmer switch, [high/low beam switch] is integrated into the “Combination Light Switch”, meaning the connection between the “Head Light Switch” and the “Dimmer Switch” is internal and although not impossible to access, it would require that you "open’ the “CLS” find the out put from the “HS” to the “DS” and add a lead to it and run it out of the “CLS”.
If your car has DRLs, [daytime running lights] Canadian, you can use the red lead at the “CLS”, or you could just use the red/green lead at the “CLS” it is the park light output, it does mean you will have head lights when the park lights are on. 94
Just had a thought, I wonder if the USDM tegs Combination Light Switch also has the red, [DRL shut down] leads pin position in the plug going to the “CLS”, just no red lead, just an empty pin position???
i was just on alldata and found the daytime running light relay…so i went out to see if my fuse box had a place for the fuse and it doesn’t…in the combination switch there is the headlight switch and the dimmer/passing switch. if i could tap into the lead before the dimmer passing switch then i should be good also…like you said…i am also trying to see if my car has the DRL red wire you mentioned…if so then that will be great and i can just tie into it there. but i have to find it first lol. i had thought about what you said and just tapping into the park light wires…i don’t ever drive with just those light on anyways so that could be a possibility also…
Thanks for your help FCM…i was looking forward to you reply
yeah that is what i am thinking also…so i might just have to tap into the park lights to have low beam power at all times when switch is on. again thanks for your help and any other ideas please shoot them my way
If the red lead is just missing, [empty pin location on plug to CLS] but the switch still has the output pin, you could re-pin it, [trip the the bone yard for the proper pin] and have proper high/low beam operation.94
yeah i was thinking that also…I don’t think that should be too big of a problem…i was just hoping that they would just use universal plugs and it already be there…i hope anyways that would be awesome.
theres actually a simple solution to this. on the back of the headlight switch you can jump a wire from another one and problem solved! i’ve done this already and instead of having just the parking lights turn on on the first click…the headlights go on as well. and the second click forward …headlight on position would be your highbeams. you just gotta get a test light and figure out where wat wire gets power and when and jump the appropriate one.
how about using a diode between high beam to low beam when activating the high beam. this should continue allowing power to the low beam which powers the ballast. i am just wondering if when switching from low beam to high beam it would cause a “restart” of the ballast and cause the lights to stay of for a couple of seconds while the ballast restarts? i found a diagram for which i can use and i will post it up in the morning.
hm, i wonder if my bi-xenon harness would work on this. It looks like it should.
the thing in the middle. It came with my bi-xenon PnP kit (9004-3).
it is not the version with the halogen high beam, or the twin d2s capsules. Its a telescopic bulb. But the wiring for the harness looks just like the diagram above. Power to the ballasts from battery switched by a relay from a single headlight harness. High beams included and switched via a solenoid.
It will work, but without knowing how long the “ballast” can be off, [we are talking less then a split second] before it needs to “restart” there is no way to know if if there will be any noticeable “off time”.
There is a point when switching from low to high beam that there is no power to either the low or high beam, this is also the case when switching from high to low beam, but it is such a short duration I can’t see it having any effect.:shrug:94
yeah they just recommend that you don’t turn it on then turn it off then right back on…apparently it can do damage to the ballast. i might try and tackle it this weekend when i get some free time and see what i come up with and hopefully get this to work…how many relays should i use…just one or one for low and high beam? i know the diagram only shows one but i don’t know.
I would use two. one for the left side and one for the right side, pretty sure you do not need relays for the solenoids, the stock high beam output is 10A per side. 94
where and what kinda of diode should i try…i stopped by radioshack last night and looked at them but i didn’t know which one to try…so i will just go back.
well i got the harness made i just have to clean it up a bit… i actually installed the lights and they turned out great so far…i just have to find a place to aim them…so tomorrow that is the goal.
Hey 92db2 - the schematic you have above, is that the COMPLETE harness I need to run my bi-xenons safely? I don’t need to add anything else? Also, the diode in the diagram, which way is the electricity flowing, from from right to left correct? Oh and how do I solder up a diode? Just solder it to the wires then shrink wrap it?
So just to make sure, the relay I buy is an 87A relay and the diode is any 1A diode? Also, are our headlight narness a positive or ground switched? Sorry a little confused about the diagram…
Or can I just buy the ebay harness and solder up a diode… that will be easier right?
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