…already read turbo guide, searched here and HT…anyway my motor is gettin old and over the past couple months i’ve been throwin ideas around as far as my future goals to get more power. first was a tuned jdm b16 w/ skunk2 goodies for maybe 20+ over the stock 160, then a LS/vtec which i quickly cancelled out, and even though i wanted to stay all motor i guess i’ve realized that goin turbo would net way more power for around the same price.
Basically my questions are what turbo would i go w/ to get 250-290 to the wheels? from searchin i’ve seen many people with t3/t4, sc34 gettin into that range but, i’m still kind of in the dark with my assumption that the “turbo alone won’t determine the hp number but, more or less everything else in the fuel/exhaust system that deals wit the turbo”? as well as the psi?
So how do you estimate how much a system would make if its not jus about the turbo? I’m jus lookin for a good street setup, nothing full race.
I went home and read some old magazines, i found out that the psi you run a turbo at determines the power it puts out but more importantly every turbo has its limit of how much psi it can handle. I’m still correct in assuming that the whole fuel/turbo/exhaust system is really more important than just the power from the turbo alone right? :hmm:
i’m not talkin bout the normal fuel/exhaust system but just the parts dealing wit the turbo like the manifold, downpipe, IC, etc. For example, if i did have a turbo capable of getting the 250-290 i’m lookin for, would it be better to have a less powerful turbo and compliment it with the better flowing peices/tuning to get to that powergoal? or just get a turbo that has that raw power and don’t worry about it? …since most of those pipes are cramped anyway?
xeno about how much whp do you think you would have had with proper compression?
Generally speaking, with higher compression ratios, the sooner boost will occur. (As well as increased displacement.) In terms of where a turbo starts to spool, and how much PSI it will generate, as well as when it runs out of puff, will depend on many variables. For starters, look at some CFM flow charts of a variety of turbos. A little DSM 14b on an H22 will run out of puff very quickly, but boost will start sooner, than say a DSM Big 20g, on a D16, which would need to rev high, and keep reving to ~10K to maximize the 20g’s CFM.
Getting the biggest turbo possible, won’t work for everyone, because depending on the application, having boost begining at 5k rpms, won’t make for a good daily driver.
Nice Job! Now that’s what I’m talking about. Boosting on a stock block/head!
Just curious: What if you turn up the boost to 20PSI, and drop in some C16 (116 octane race gas), and increase the fuel pressure.
I’d like to see that 300HP boundry wall taken down.
(BTW, with that current set-up, I would stop revving past 6500 RPMS, because you’re not making power up there, and you’re only killing your engine bearings.)
That’s exactly what we did. The rev limitter was set up at 6900 rpms and the shift light at 6600 rpms. Like you said, there is no point on keep revving if no power is gonna be generated.
The next upgrade (within a month) will be a set of crower turbo cams and a Skunk intake manifold with some race gas. The tricks to this were the turbo head gasket and the ARP head studs. Cheap parts and will defenitely help your motor out!
the larger plenum and shorter runners are more ideal for higher rpm performance, much so over the stock ls intake manifold. an aftermarket intake manifold is a good way to stop the ls from dying out at 6500 or so. couple that with some turbo cams and you can bring the torque and consequently the power up at least a few hundred rpms. i was looking into the blox intake manifold, but i got a free ported and polished stock one. im just not sure it will be near as effective as an aftermarket one.