.B20B block stock sleeve with goldan eagle block brace
.Wiesco 9:1 forged pistons
. Eagle H beam rods
.type R crank with all acl crank and rod bearrings
.arp main studs, rod bolts and head studs
.B16 head stock valve train felpro head gasket
.ctr cams
.skunk2 pro series manifold, 70m tb
.DSM 450 injectors
.b16 cable tranny, LSD
Ok now that is pretty much everything i’ve got and I just picked up a jdm sport ‘‘ebay’’ t3/t4 turbo kit to start off with, figured I would just slowly uprade a piece at a time cuz that is what fits into my budget rite now.
My questions are…
How much psi could the setup I have handle safely ‘‘after tuning ofcoarse’’ I was thinking of doing 8-10 pounds…
Rite now I am running a chipped PWO ecu OBD0, Can I run this setup or injectors off of a obd0 ecu??? Or do I need to go obd1??
I hear that the dsm’s require a resistor box or do I not need to worrie about that since I am still obd0, I kind of need to know this question in both ways as in what do I do if I were obd1 and needed a resistor box and what do I need to do if I stay obd0 if possible?? Sorry, hope you can fallow that, lol…
Other than that i’m looking for just plain ol tips and suggestions, and please if anyone has experience in turboing a DA and KEEPING AC! Please help me out with some advice there. I just bought a full size aluminum radiator and slim fans a few months back and would really rather not have to go to a half size if possible…
[SIZE=“4”]Thx in advance to everyone. Any help, tips, suggestions are greatly appreciated[/SIZE]
Oh and I was searching thru threads and the post your turbo setup thread and really couldn’t see too many with A/C, if you have any pics of a turboed DA with A/C i’d love too see them please and again…
Just try and find an A/C compatible manifold and you should be fine.
Regarding your PSI question, a small turbo on 5 lbs will be less powerfull than say a gt30r on 5 lbs. Questions like “How much PSI can my motor handle” is irrelevant. Questions such as “how much PSI to get to X amount of HP/TQ” is
Stock B series, stock can handle somewhere around 250-300 hp on stock internals. Also, this is greatly determined on how good the tune is.
Thank you for your time bro, I really appreciate it.
My worrie is the stock B20 sleeve, I have heard some horror stories ha ha.
With the internals of my block not being stock would you think that going to around 350-400hp would be safe or is the stock B20 sleeve gonna limit me to the standard 250-300hp range??
And of coarse I know without a good tuning it wont last long regaurdless, I’m looking for an answer considering it’s tuned…
[SIZE=“4”]AND PLEASE POST PICS OF TURBOED 2ND GENS WITH A/C[/SIZE]
Ive been researching my b20 turbo build also and i have heard that more than 8 lbs on even a small turbo like that t3/t4 will warp the sleeves. I would run 8 or less til you get the block sleeved.
it is no different to running the charge pipe through the frame rail (which is illegal in Australia and would write the car off if caught) aside from removing 2 clamps and a section of pipe to access the headlight, radiator etc.
[QUOTE=mooshie;2113424]why do you say that?[/QUOTE]the space between the manifold and the condenser lines is pretty close. its way too tight to be pulling parts off the nose of the car with out fully taking the car apart. ehh…[QUOTE=mooshie;2113424]it is no different to running the charge pipe through the frame rail (which is illegal in Australia and would write the car off if caught) aside from removing 2 clamps and a section of pipe to access the headlight, radiator etc.[/QUOTE]i wouldnt run it though the rail anyway, up and over through the hole behind the headlight ;).
Well your ebay turbo kit…eh, please weld and re-brace the manifold, and take apart the turbo and replace the bearings, and seals. It’s cheap, and you can get it off ebay for about 70-80 bucks. Anyway I say go off the wastegate spring and go up to what your tuner says. Remember take account that you have stock sleeves, so don’t go over board, but then again my tuner’s personal D series Integra has ran to upwards of 28 psi on stock sleeves. I understand the sleeves are thin, but you can always switch to a b18 block, and get different pistons if you are that unsure. And also the stock Honda map sensor only reads to 10psi, take account of that as well.
I suggest you converting to obd1, a whole better as in tuning wise. All you need is a odb1 distributor, 4 wire o2 sensor, and a conversion harness. Yes the DSM injectors require a resistor box, only if they are the peak and hold. Your obd0 car has a resistor box, so no worries. Your injectors are going to max out at 300hp, if you plan to run up towards that range, you need to upgrade the injectors. And if not, I still strongly suggest to upgrade the fuel pump now.
In my opinion you don’t need a block guard, waste of money. I made 360hp on a d16 without one. So why waste the money?
i 2nd everything he says, the ebay manifolds need to b a bit tougher. mines reinforced. the bearings thing i duno bout that when i installed mine i left the drain off and held the intake compressor wheel and bled the oil through the bearings. touch wood mines got no problems however im only running 8psi.
i would try find that yca or something manifold its a stainless manifold with braces on the bottom. apparently its a/c compatible
mine runs a/c mines currently off the road for cams and that waiting a few parts then ill b back on the road.
the condensor was a off the shelf part. i got it 2-3inch shorter then oem
I agree with brian but that is a different engine. I have heard of boost like that on other engines but i know that the b20 specifically has really weak sleeves. I havnt seen anyone use the brace before but that might be just what it needs. But again the MAP is only good up to 10psi. Unless you upgrade that i would play it safe and keep it low(unless you have the time and money to replace the sleeves and internals when they do warp) my $.02
