im going to do a little body work there and here, hand/block wet sand then prime all bare metals and re-do the wetsand again
i probably will want do first thick coat with 2 or 3 thin coats if possible with 6 to 8 cans and maybe 4 cans of cheap clear coats?
im doing it on my driveway lol
whats yall options lol
yeah couldnt afford thousand paint job but im going to make it look as good as real paint job if possible lol i got three kids bills and its pretty hard to afford
I thousand would be a cheap paintjob lol… we charge closer to $2,500 to do the exterior and door jambs on a typical Honda. And that’s a good§price.
There is a big reason they cost so much, doing the prep work yourself can save you a ton of money… but being that aerosol paint was never relly meant to be a long-lasting, more “factory” finish, it will not hold up very long. And then if/when you go to do it over again (the proper way) you typically have to remove ALL of the aerosol that is on it as it will wrinkle/lift when you put regular automotive paint on it.
IMO, it’s not worth doing. Worst case I’d do all the prep myself, pull all trim, do body work etc, then pay Maaco to spray it. That way you’ll get a better job that will last longer, and also save yourself money.
Nope, it’s not… the point was that 1k is a VERY good deal, as I know what I charge, and it is much more than that amount.
Scuffing, trim/panel removing, body work, priming the repairs, scuffing said primer, sealing the car, sanding said sealer, basecoat, clearcoat… Fully wet sanding the clear (1500gritt, then 2000gritt) then putting down a 3-stage buff, re-assemble trim/paneling… None of that is quick work.
1k out the door? Ridiculously cheap and, I’m sure a few of the steps I listed wouldn’t be done for that cheap. Primer (+reducer, hardener), basecoat (+reducer), clearcoat (+hardener, reducer) alone to paint a car is close to $500… Leaving ~$500 for the actual labor? Er yeah… that’s how a company loses money, or, does below-par-quality work.
Not to nit-pick, but look at the recent paintjobs that people said they paid 1k for, they got what they paid for… but see the overspray? Texture/orange peel, etc? As I said, there is a reason people charge a lot to paint a car. A TON of work is involved.
im going to do a little body work there and here, hand/block wet sand then prime all bare metals and re-do the wetsand again
i probably will want do first thick coat with 2 or 3 thin coats if possible with 6 to 8 cans and maybe 4 cans of cheap clear coats?
im doing it on my driveway lol
whats yall options lol[/QUOTE]
No reason to wetsand more then once before painting the car and the first coat has to be thin. I would never suggest anyone to paint a car in their driveway.
yeah i just put a air compressor on layaway from pawn shop lol for 85 bucks needs a little work but… its 11 cfm up to 140 psi but the compressor needs a little work cuz it wont go above 80 psi im going to use real car paint its pretty good deal on the compressor???
my car came out fantastic and i still have to drop it off to be wetsanded and buffed. main reason i havent is because it’s my only vehicle at the moment and mom catches a fit if i ask to borrow her car at any time. but i’m going to have to do it soon, i need to get my fender replaced/painted, and trunk spoiler installed as well
We did a G35 a few months ago… Had quite a few dings, and one fender needing some serious help. We re-sprayed it black, as mentioned above, the jambs weren’t necessary.
Basically, it went from this… an improper paint job, that had a ton of scratches that were just painted over:
To this:
Bear in mind those are low-resolution pictures. That thing was scary-clean when we were finished.
I’d definitely go with something out of an actual paint-gun versus aerosol.
Seriously… Look at the single-stage paints that Checker/AutoZone sell. Water-based, easy as can be to deal with… and having a steady source of air vs relying on a spray can is invaluable.
That’s after a wetsand with 1500 gritt and then 2000 gritt. The goal is getting completely rid of any ‘orange peel’ texture. I don’t care who paints the car, there will ALWAYS be orange-peel to some extent, Getting rid of it leaves a mirror finish. Everything we do gets wetsanded and a 2-4 stage buff.
This is the comparison. The fuel door was NOT sanded, just polished/buffed. The rest of the quarter panel was sanded. Notice the “texture” difference?
Maaco and most other shops won’t fully sand and buff the car, they spray it and send it out the door.
yea i can see the difference the quarter panel looks great my step dad owns a body shop he does buff for customer cars a week after paint settles in depends if customer brings car back for buffing lol i ve only sanded few cars three maybe four cars but never painted car before so its going to be fun lol
