Just wanna know if anyone knows what wire I could splice into to have my fogs to act as daytime running lights? I know I can connect it to the on with ignition accessory spade to turn on with it, but I’m not positive which to splice into… I have the original rewire wired… ie. turn them on seperatlly…
reason; I live in canada, for some reason I can’t get my real DRL’s to run so this could be the next best thing, the cops have been giving out some pretty silly tickets, so I wanna do this to avoid any confrontation, last thing I need is a required inspection, my car is no where near legal (struts/coils/exaust/jdm one peice/rear body kit has no rebar… etc)
please help pics would be awesome or a explination with colour
Replaced te relay for one, then tried another set of spare (for somereason lol) set of wires… The sidemarker lights (drls) now turn on when I hit my command start,as well as when I turn my lights to light up the cabin…
why don’t you just wire it up like the article says instead of trying to do it your way since you can’t figure it out?
He wants to use them as daytime running lights. 94
So do you want them to come on automatically when you start the car, without having to use the fog light switch, or do you still want to be able to turn them off? 94
dont care about turning them off, just want them to be on when I turn on the car lol… if I can find a way to use the regular swich to turn it off as well as have it turn on when I turn the car on then great, but I don’t need that since I like driving with my fogs on anyway!
On with ign., pull switch disconnect red/blue lead from switch and connect it, [red/blue lead, not switch] to 2nd ing. free pin on under dash fuse box.
On with ign. but switch will also work to turn them off, [switch must be left on] pull switch disconnect red/yellow, connect extension lead to the red/yellow on switch and connect to 2nd ign. free pin on under dash fuse box.94
hmm, Im thinking that the second option (switch always closed ((on))) would slowly, very slowly, drain my battery though due to the small light on the inside of my switch being on… so I think I’ll try the first thing I was stuck on a 2 hour drive home during a work trip (passenger obviouslly) and did some studying on the situation and came up with
I was just gonna find out what colour E was and connect the wire I already have running to my fogs to the side running towards the dash, and put the wire onto the accesorry spade you suggested…! so basiclly you explained it, I guess that diagram can be used as a basis for anyone that needs to do this!
Hm, if I were to take the bulb out of the fog switch, would it still draw power from my battery?
haha, thanks fcm you’re always there to save me with my stupid questions! 1up for you
There is no drain on the batt. either way, [when ign, switch is off] input to switch, [E, red/yellow] has no power when ign. is off so the indicator light can not be on, if the indicator light was on, so would the fog lights. 94
yeah I thought about that after the fact… I got it running works well… I have a drain from somewhere, my battery dies after 3 days… but thats a diff situation that I have to figure out
Make sure everything is off, connect ground clip, [of test light] to batt. neg.(-) cable clamp, touch probe to batt. neg.(-) post, [below clamp] remove clamp, that puts test light in series with batt. if test light is on, [at all] you have a parasitic draw over and above acceptable limit.
Leave test light connected and start pulling fuses one by one, [constant power fuses] until test light goes out, when it does you have found circuit that is the draw.
If test light does not light up, you do not have a parasitic draw, your batt. is bad. 94
BTW, do not forget the dome light, make sure it is turned off or test will not work when you open the door to pull fuses from under dash fuse box.
Yes, connect ground clip to any chassis or engine ground point, then touch probe to batt. neg.(-) post, then remove neg.(-) batt. cable from batt. leaving the test light probe connected to, [touching] the post. 94