Nice! Some good stuff there man. Jealous of how clean that timing cover is. I spent a good hour and a half scrubbing mine clean last week
Thanks man! Can’t beat brand new! They always get nasty too. Mine was filthy and had a scrape/cut from the crank pulley so I didn’t even bother trying to clean it up.
That’s how mine is. I guess the crank pulley tends to rub up against them. Oh well, doesn’t bother me really. Enjoy that drill press man. I love having one of those. Bolt that sucker down though, mine has almost fallen over a few times cause I never bolted it down
Hell yeah! Some great gifts there man.
I’ve used that press multiple times, good stuff. Sooooo handy.
And that’s a nice heavy duty OBD2 lower timing belt cover as well! I just trimmed my B1 cover to fit and said fuck it lol.
I see a double edged sword… She don’t want ya in the shop, but buys shop tools…
I just bolted my new oem covers on a couple days ago for a quick mock up - once again you and I are on parallel paths. They really are a thing of beauty though, and they’d better be cause they cost a pretty penny!
512-sir ll- yeah just about every used cover I saw was scraped or cut all the way through. It sucks that the way they’re designed causes that issue. I’ll definitely be bolting it down. Gotta grab some long bolts for the drill press and the vice next time I’m at the hardware store.
Unified112- my buddy has the same press and I’ve used it several times now. I’m glad to have my own though, no more trips across town to press stuff! And yeah she’s usually pretty good about me being out there. She has her moments but what woman doesn’t? Lol
Colin- I estimate your car will be finished waaaay before mine. I am still so far away. I wasn’t even planning to buy the covers any time soon. It was going to be one of my items in my huge order from the dealership but these popped up for sale and I jumped on them because he was basically giving them away. I got them for $45 shipped, which is less than one would cost individually if I bought it from honda!
You scored big time, you can’t find used ones for that price! I stupidly tossed mine when I was taking apart the motor, thinking my old covers (which I bought new when I rebuilt my b17a) would fit. I was wrong.
Damm that’s a great price for the covers, i need two sets of those lol
nice gifts and great come up on the timing belt covers.
Yeah I couldn’t believe he was selling them so cheap, works for me though! I’m still confused about compatibility between covers. Why couldn’t your old ones work? Were they obd1 and the new block is obd2? Or is there a difference with the upper covers? I have seen a couple obd2 oil pumps for sale bnib for cheaper than they will be if I buy from the dealership but I’m so confused about compatibility with the timing belts/covers that I’ve let them pass by until I wrap my brain around what timing belt I’ll need to run with an obd2 pump.
On this oil pump you don’t have crack sensor
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f315/JerseySiPOS/OilPump_ITR_1.jpg
You can see that this one has the space for the sensor to be mounted with a 10mm bolt. IF you look at the design/shape of the border line you can see that they have different shapes on both oil pumps. All new ITR/GSR oil pumps come with the sensor mount, so just make sure your lower timing belt cover is for the oil pump that comes with the sensor location.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5667247072_bb51f9ec96.jpg
NOTE: pictures aren’t mine. I just got them from yahoo images.
I don’t know 100%, but I think the only difference with the OBD2 pump is that it can accommodate the crank sensor on OBD2 cars. But I’m not sure if you can install an OBD1 cover on an OBD2 pump (with the sensor removed obviously). I have some pics of my OBD2 oil pump but I need to get them off my camera. I opted to get all the OBD2 stuff so that I could install the crank sensor in the future (I’d like to have it BAR legal at some point).
Unless you can get some parts to do a test fit, then I’d make sure the cover matches the pump just to be safe. And really, for your car I’d recommend the OBD1 lower cover - it just looks better. List price for all of these parts is nearly $200, so even if you bought a new OBD1 lower cover the total cost would be under $100. And you could pretty easily sell the new OBD2 lower cover for $30-$50. These are in fairly high demand and even used ones sell for ridiculous prices.
My old covers were for the b17a, I didn’t test fit them, it was a friend who told me they wouldn’t fit. He actually ordered b16a covers for his b18c and was surprised when they didn’t fit and we were talking about it. But it makes sense due to the different deck heights.
Shit, I forgot that you’re building a b17a and not a b18c. I did a quick search and it looks like the OBD2 lower cover is the same for both b18c and b16a engines but the two upper pieces are different (at least the upper front cover is). Not sure which ones you have there if they are the p72 or pr3 versions… Regardless you can resell them easily if needed - shit, I might buy 'em! And if you need a clean set of pr3 covers let me know I still have all of mine from my b17a.
The B17/B18a/B18b/B18C1 OBD1 lower covers are the same part number…
Yes, you can install an OBD1 lower cover on the updated OBD2 oil pump… BUT, you have to trim the ‘notch’ off the bottom so it clears the lip of the pump.
I used my old cover because I didn’t want to fork over the cash for the new cover…
If I had both sitting next to me, I would opt for the OBD2 unit simply because of how beefy it is. In a pinch either one will work fine.
I read up on it a long while ago and I seem to remember that that the obd2 oil pump was supposedly “better.” From what I remember (and feel free to correct me if I’m incorrect about anything):
-the obd2 pump was the preferred choice when selecting an oil pump
-the obd2 lower cover is necessary to use the obd2 oil pump
-all B series VTEC water pumps are the same
-the b16/17 upper covers are different from the b18c1 covers
-all obd2 oil pumps are the same (LS,GSR,Type R)
The ones I bought are for an obd2 b16 (SI) so I think they should be exactly what I need if I’m running an obd2 oil pump. I just can’t remember if the timing belt differences people were referring to were because of the water pump, oil pump, or because people were talking about LSVTEC applications. I’ll have to read up on it a bit more. I already have a timing belt and I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work with the obd2 oil pump and obd1 water pump but I’d rather order a part beforehand than be trying to assemble it and find out I have a problem.
I appreciate all the info guys!
[QUOTE=rollinmyda;2307180]I read up on it a long while ago and I seem to remember that that the obd2 oil pump was supposedly “better.” From what I remember (and feel free to correct me if I’m incorrect about anything):
-the obd2 pump was the preferred choice when selecting an oil pump I’m not aware of the OBD2 pump being better
-the obd2 lower cover is necessary to use the obd2 oil pump Correct, but looks like the OBD1 cover can be modified to work (see Sean’s comment above)
-all B series VTEC water pumps are the same Correct, at least in regard to fitment. you don’t need to worry about it
-the b16/17 upper covers are different from the b18c1 covers Correct
-all obd2 oil pumps are the same (LS,GSR,Type R) Correct
The ones I bought are for an obd2 b16 (SI) so I think they should be exactly what I need if I’m running an obd2 oil pump. I just can’t remember if the timing belt differences people were referring to were because of the water pump, oil pump, or because people were talking about LSVTEC applications. I’ll have to read up on it a bit more. I already have a timing belt and I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work with the obd2 oil pump and obd1 water pump but I’d rather order a part beforehand than be trying to assemble it and find out I have a problem.
I appreciate all the info guys![/QUOTE]
Sounds like if you’re running the OBD2 oil pump and don’t mind the OBD2 cover, then you’re set to go. Don’t worry about the belt, you just need a b16a/b17a belt. The oil pump and water pump don’t change any of that. The gear for the timing belt on the crank is removable, so it’s independent of what oil pump you use. Which actually brings me to something else strange I found out. The OBD2 crank gear requires another woodruff key where as the older style gear has it’s own notch built into it.
Trust me as far as the OBD1 cover on an OBD2 oil pump… I’ve personally done it. Though due to its beefy size, I like the OBD2 better than the OBD1.
The timing belt issues may have been, as you said, lsvtec related… and that situation is:
-If using a non-vtec water pump, use the non-vtec LS timing belt.
-If using a vtec water pump, use a vtec GSR timing belt
Like Colin said, that shouldn’t concern your situation at all.
And speaking of Colin, I did not realise that the newer crank gear had a removable key… wonder why they changed it?
I’m guessing that it had something to do with ease of production or production costs. The newer gear has the additional gear on it which the crank sensor reads, so maybe the addition of that made it hard to integrate the little notch that fit into the groove of the crank? I was confused at first and had to check the online catalog, sure enough two woodruff keys required instead of one.
Well now I can’t find anything saying the obd2 pump is better, just that it is different than the obd1 VTEC pump. My memory sucks. I guess since I already have the obd2 lower cover the deciding factor of which pump to get will be cost.
And as far as the cover fitting, I was just referring to it directly bolting on and fitting with no modification. I believe you that it’ll fit if you trim it but I really don’t want to go that route at all.
I am glad to hear that my timing belt will work though! I don’t know where my confusion came from…
Worked on my front suspension a bit today. I pressed out the hubs, wheel bearings and ball joints and removed the dust covers.
Here they are all naked and soaking in degreaser… I need to order my wheel bearings still
Removed the bearing races from the hubs since they press out with the hubs. I cut them at an angle with a cutoff disc in my dremel. Then I popped the race by hammering a screwdriver in the groove.
Also pressed out my FLCA bushings
Gotta give everything a good bath/scrub in my parts cleaner and either paint or powdercoat everything so I can put it back together. I also still have to order new wheel studs.