Awesome work dude. I’m envious… Yet not looking forward to doing that myself lol
Those things will clean up nice though… elbow grease!
Awesome work dude. I’m envious… Yet not looking forward to doing that myself lol
Those things will clean up nice though… elbow grease!
Powder coat! You can get good results w paint, but if you have everything apart and aren’t in a hurry its worth it to PC. Just plan ahead and get everything you need done at the same time. Even then you’ll probably forget some little part, I know I always do.
Oh, and if you’re gonna paint, check out por15 and Eastwood Chassis black. But really for the time you’ll spend and cost if supplies PC is worth it. I wish I’d gone that route.
Unified- Thanks! It’s not that much work, cleaning everything is probably the most time consuming part.
Colin- definitely leaning towards powdercoating. Just gotta shop around and see what’s available locally. I’m planning to use the POR15 on my fenderwells so I could see how I like the results before having them coated but really I’d prefer to have them coated then painted.
Awesome work and updates! Digging the new tools and suspension. I may have missed it, but what spring rates did you go with? You can’t beat Koni/GC and top hats.
Keep the updates coming. I am also in the process of replacing my bushings with the same press. Curious how you make out with the POR15 & powder coating as well. I wanted to share the below pics because you can actually improve that press in a few ways. 1. Fill the gaps with washers so it won’t flex (since you can weld, might as well weld it all up too) 2. Use Nylon Bolts to center the main arm. Definitely a great tool to have.
agree with colin. PC will last longer. Painting suspension parts isn’t good because the rocks on the road will chip the painted areas. With all of the work being done I would just wait and soend the extra bucks to get them pc
Jdecks- I’m looking for another used pair of koni type ground controls with a 500 lb spring rate. The pair I already have is 380 and I’m planning to run about 100 lbs difference front to back. If I can’t source a used pair of ground controls I’ll probably buy a set with 550f/450r rates and then I’d have a variety of rates to be able to dial it in with.
I like that idea of reinforcing/centering the press! I’m definitely going to do that. Thanks for the pictures!
Aftermath- yeah maybe I’ll make some calls today and do some enquiring and pricing. It would definitely come out better.
In my experience its hard to get a price quote over the phone, they usually like to see the stuff in person. I’d bring the bulk of your suspension components and get quotes from a couple places. Then when you go to have it done bring in every last little tiny bracket, accessory… You can find that you might want coated and throw that in with the batch. Doing it in bulk really cuts costs over having to return to have small parts done.
Well in that case I’ve got a lot more stuff to get ready. I definitely want my steering rack subframe and my RTAs coated too. I’m sure I can think of more too…
Tore down my RTAs today. You wouldn’t believe I cleaned them but I did. They’ll need a lot more time to get them clean enough. The bushings were shot!
What bushes are you going to replace them with? Blox spherical maybe :rockon:
I’ll be using hardrace RTA bushings. I don’t like the idea of spherical bushings on anything but a dedicated track car and I don’t care much for blox either. I’ve never had a bad experience with anything of theirs but I’ve heard stories.
Yeah for sure… you don’t want spherial RTA bushings on the street car.
HardRace, Mugen or OEM. With the price and quality of the HR bushing, you really can’t go wrong. I wouldn’t even consider Blox.
That stuff is going to look awesome and yes, you really should powder coat it versus painting it all. If you’re going to spend the effort/money to refinish them you should use a product that will last.
I’m entirely jealous.
That is all.
Yeah its hard to beat the price of the hardrace bushings. Everything I’ve heard about them is good and they’re cheaper then the alternatives. If I hadn’t decided to get hardrace I would have gone with OEM.
I agree. If I’m spending this much time and money to refurbish everything I’m sure I’d regret it if I didn’t spend the extra time to get them coated. I was just remembering my buddy had some parts powdercoated for a project in college and had nothing but good to say about the company he went through. He has since moved away but I’m going to get in touch with him to see if he remembers what company it was. If I remember right the guy he dealt with was a guy we all went to school with and the guy went above and beyond for him.
Not sure if you’re doing any more wiring or not, but figured I’d share a site I just found: http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html I have been looking for H4H connectors for months now and finally found what I was looking for! I just started working on my engine harness yesterday - I forgot how time consuming that shit is.
That’s awesome! Thank you! I’ll definitely be ordering some of those. I was thinking I was going to have to solder pigtails onto my harness because I hadn’t found those available anywhere. I don’t have a ton of wiring still to do but the cooling fan, headlight, turn signals/bumper lights, sidemarkers, and horn still have to be wired up.
Feel free to post up your engine harness progress and finished product. I’m really interested to see what you end up doing. Have you decided what you’re going to be using for loom?
No problem, share and share alike, I say Look around on that site for awhile, you may find some other stuff you want. They have some small crimps too, they’re not cheap but I ordered a bunch and think I might try crimping instead of soldering going forward. We’ll see what they look like when they show up (there’s no scale in the pics so it’s hard to see what you’re getting). If I forget, remind me to let you know how the H4H connectors go, without having them in my hand I can’t say for sure they’re the right ones, but so far they’re the most OEM looking I have found other than Rywire. I was going to get from Rywire, but he wants $15 each. I also emailed the guy that runs the site and just told him the site was great and that there’s a market for OEM Honda wiring/pins/connectors and if he’s trying to grow the business he may look into selling more of that stuff. He replied right back and turns out he’s worked at Honda before and was familiar with DA’s and our era of Hondas. It would be awesome if there was a no-nonsense source for OEM Honda wiring!
No pics of the harness yet, but hopefully soon. I’ve started taking pics again w/ my camera instead of my iPhone so that means I don’t have them online as quickly, and right now I need to hustle so I won’t be uploading much. I found out the HFF series starts on 1/25, and I had been assuming late Feb like last year. It’s looking like I may miss the first two events I opted to go with a OEM-ish style for the harness. All of the main loom will be split loom wrapped in Scotch 88 then all the pieces that come off of that main loom will be heat shrinked all the way to the connector. I’m interested to see how it turns out as well, I know I won’t be perfectly happy with it (like always) but I think it’s a good compromise. If I was building the harness from scratch it might be possible to forgo the loom and tape in favor of only the heat shrink, but with the original wires inside that would look really shitty. Now that I’ve used the OEM style pins and connectors more I see that it really wouldn’t be that hard to build a harness from scratch if you had all the materials.
Great find Colin and thanks for sharing it. I definitely going to pick some up. Im pretty sure your harness is going to look top notch. I cant wait to see the finish results on rollinmyda wiring. That integra is pretty much going to have everything rebuild.
Colin- That would be awesome if he decided to stock that OEM wiring stuff for us! Hopefully though he would go direct to the manufacturer so we actually had OEM stuff not reproduction and at a reasonable price. I’ll have to take a look at the rest of the site and see what else he currently has to offer.
Is your harness going to come through the firewall in the original locations or are you gathering it all into one main bundle like I did? If you are keeping it in its original locations the split loom may look a bit out of place compared to the heatshrink on the rest of the harness but since it goes behind the engine it may not be too noticeable. I’m definitely interested in seeing it!
After seeing my finished engine harness I’m decently satisfied but I may eventually completely make one from scratch. Like you said it would be time consuming but not THAT difficult to do and I think the finished product would be a lot cleaner then reworking the OEM harness. I would definitely like to keep the OEM wire colors though which would be difficult to source…
Aftermath- Thanks! The deeper I get into the car the more I want to refurbish or replace every part. Realistically I’m just not going to put a “finish” date on it. I just want it to be like new but better when its done. Takes a lot of time I dont have though!
I agree with you. It sure takes a long time to do it right, but its all worth at the end.